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  • JimN
    replied
    Originally posted by neil.anderson63 View Post
    2007 X2 - Head scratcher for me. Starter battery is charging, 14.4 volts. House battery isn't, 12.2 volts and will die on the water after a few ballast fill and empty when goofy and regular riders switch sides. Battery is good, takes a charge, load tests and holds. I don't have a VSR or a Perko DBS in my system, only a breaker that sits right between my batteries. The breaker hasn't ever tripped. When the battery died on the water I put them inline with a jumper cable and was able to empty my tanks to trailer home.
    I think my only component that could be bad is the breaker. Do these breakers go bad?
    Make sure the second battery is on the ‘Load’ side of the breaker and measure continuity across its poles witg nothing else attached- should read 0 Ohms. How are the cables attached? Lead lugs with the clamps tight or only slid on and wiggled? If it has wing nuts, make sure the cable ends are clean and measure voltage without the second battery connected WITH the engine running- if you don’t see the same at both batteries, fix that.

    Leave a comment:


  • MLA
    replied
    Originally posted by neil.anderson63 View Post
    2007 X2 - Head scratcher for me. Starter battery is charging, 14.4 volts. House battery isn't, 12.2 volts and will die on the water after a few ballast fill and empty when goofy and regular riders switch sides. Battery is good, takes a charge, load tests and holds. I don't have a VSR or a Perko DBS in my system, only a breaker that sits right between my batteries. The breaker hasn't ever tripped. When the battery died on the water I put them inline with a jumper cable and was able to empty my tanks to trailer home.
    I think my only component that could be bad is the breaker. Do these breakers go bad?
    Breaker will likely never trip, unless its like less then 5A rating.

    Unless there is more to your setup then posted, I read its 2 batteries wired in parallel into one, with a random breaker between them.

    You measured alternator voltage on one and static battery voltage on the other. If this was with a meter, then use that meter to find where the alternator voltage stops.

    Yes, a breaker can fail.

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by neil.anderson63 View Post
    2007 X2 - Head scratcher for me. Starter battery is charging, 14.4 volts. House battery isn't, 12.2 volts and will die on the water after a few ballast fill and empty when goofy and regular riders switch sides. Battery is good, takes a charge, load tests and holds. I don't have a VSR or a Perko DBS in my system, only a breaker that sits right between my batteries. The breaker hasn't ever tripped. When the battery died on the water I put them inline with a jumper cable and was able to empty my tanks to trailer home.
    I think my only component that could be bad is the breaker. Do these breakers go bad?
    I have to ask...why a breaker between the batteries? A circuit breaker I presume? I don't see that as beneficial for the intent of your setup.

    From what I understand, it seems you do not have the batteries in parallel for charging and also do not have an isolation relay to separate the batteries when engine is off. The breaker does nothing for you in this scenario.

    You jumped the two batteries together for a start which the jumper was acting as the DBS, thus combining the batteries.

    If you do not have an isolation relay (open and close on ignition switch command) you're not isolating the start battery from the accessory battery when the ignition switch is off [and not charging (failed closed) them when the ignition switch is on run]. The ignition switch off position triggers the relay to fail open thus isolating the batteries...but you do not have this component.

    If this doesn't make sense, I have misunderstood the description of your setup.

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • neil.anderson63
    replied
    2007 X2 - Head scratcher for me. Starter battery is charging, 14.4 volts. House battery isn't, 12.2 volts and will die on the water after a few ballast fill and empty when goofy and regular riders switch sides. Battery is good, takes a charge, load tests and holds. I don't have a VSR or a Perko DBS in my system, only a breaker that sits right between my batteries. The breaker hasn't ever tripped. When the battery died on the water I put them inline with a jumper cable and was able to empty my tanks to trailer home.
    I think my only component that could be bad is the breaker. Do these breakers go bad?

    Leave a comment:


  • BellyUpFish
    replied
    Originally posted by waterlogged882 View Post
    I understand your thoughts. However after 17 years in a semi-harsh environment, the wire can corrode or degrade beneath the sheathing. Been there. Your call but for peace of mind and a new baseline, I thus suggest the new wire. The 2AWG wire is no trouble for installation and handling. It fits in quite nicely.

    I will say this; use tinned marine wire instead of readily available auto wiring.

    I can recommend Genuinedealz dot com for your wiring needs. Get them to build your 2AWG or whatever you decide, with professional crimps and heat-shrink cover. Specify your hole diameter in each end of each wire as the hole sizes vary from hot and ground / battery and opposite end connections. They ship with USPS flat rate (very reasonable). It comes plug-and-play ready right out of the shipping box.

    Best luck.
    Thanks. I'll give it a look. I guess I'll go ahead and replace it.

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by BellyUpFish View Post
    I can definitely consider replacing them. They seem to be in good shape, so I didn't consider it.
    I understand your thoughts. However after 17 years in a semi-harsh environment, the wire can corrode or degrade beneath the sheathing. Been there. Your call but for peace of mind and a new baseline, I thus suggest the new wire. The 2AWG wire is no trouble for installation and handling. It fits in quite nicely.

    I will say this; use tinned marine wire instead of readily available auto wiring.

    I can recommend Genuinedealz dot com for your wiring needs. Get them to build your 2AWG or whatever you decide, with professional crimps and heat-shrink cover. Specify your hole diameter in each end of each wire as the hole sizes vary from hot and ground / battery and opposite end connections. They ship with USPS flat rate (very reasonable). It comes plug-and-play ready right out of the shipping box.

    Best luck.

    Leave a comment:


  • BellyUpFish
    replied
    Originally posted by waterlogged882 View Post
    That is the first thing I would replace for reliable system (in conjunction with your overall objective).

    .
    I can definitely consider replacing them. They seem to be in good shape, so I didn't consider it.

    Leave a comment:


  • bturner2
    replied
    This was my last installation. Like MLA stated, I also tied the grounds together.....

    Notice the common ground terminal to the right of the right battery. In a perfect work no individual wires should attach to the battery. The exception (for me) would be a bilge pump but even that I would attach to the batter switch post. Wires attached to batter posts can get left off when reconnecting. A small number of large cables is more difficult (but not impossible if you try hard) to miss.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by BellyUpFish View Post
    I plan on leaving the factory wiring for engine starting load.
    That is the first thing I would replace for reliable system (in conjunction with your overall objective).

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • MLA
    replied
    I plan on leaving the factory wiring for engine starting load.
    Understood, but you are adding a 2nd battery that will connect to the new switch and loads will draw from it, so that cable length need to be taken into account, as well as the loads. Also, the switch has a COMBINE position, so the house bank has the potential of seeing engine cranking loads, which can peak at 300A and be as much as 200A continuous.

    If the boat does not currently have a main battery switch, then the main starter cable comes off the existing battery and relocated to the new switch. now you need a new cable from the switch to battery. So yes, somethings get reused, but there are a few new cables that need to be built.

    Unless the batteries are wide apart from each other, I prefer to just connect the house ground right to the main battery's ground post.

    Leave a comment:


  • BellyUpFish
    replied
    Originally posted by MLA View Post
    The gauge of the cable is going to be determined by the potential load its going to carry, and the distance of of the cable. This can very boat to boat.

    6ga would be adequate for connecting the ACR to the switch, unless one chose to mount it 30ft away. 6ga would be substandard for any engine starter load, unless it was a medium outboard engine.
    I plan on leaving the factory wiring for engine starting load.

    I don't know if my plan is sound, but I'm thinking about running the factory ground cable to a bus bar, near the factory battery location, and then adding a second battery..

    Essentially all I want to change is to put my stereo onto it's own battery.

    Leave a comment:


  • bturner2
    replied
    Blue Seas has no clue what you're installing their product into or how far the distance will be from the engines to their gear. 2 AWG is some serious stuff and is going to be difficult to work with. I would agree with MLA here.

    If you want to get a second opinion without calling an electrician, go to the MC dealer and look at their installation. See any 2 AWG? What size breakers are they using? Don't forget breakers are used to protect the circuit. Set the breaker too high and everything will fry and the breaker will either not trip or trip way too late.

    Leave a comment:


  • MLA
    replied
    The gauge of the cable is going to be determined by the potential load its going to carry, and the distance of of the cable. This can very boat to boat.

    6ga would be adequate for connecting the ACR to the switch, unless one chose to mount it 30ft away. 6ga would be substandard for any engine starter load, unless it was a medium outboard engine.

    Leave a comment:


  • tr6coug
    replied
    Originally posted by BellyUpFish View Post
    What gauge wire does everyone recommend for running a Blue Seas Add-A-Battery kit.

    Is 6 gauge wire going to be enough for standard purposes?
    I'm adding the Blue Sea 7650 kit now and the instructions say to use 2 AWG wire and 150 amp circuit breakers for alternators that are >80 amps. Just ordered a bunch of wire, lugs, circuit breakers and a set of crimpers from amazon.

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by BellyUpFish View Post
    What gauge wire does everyone recommend for running a Blue Seas Add-A-Battery kit.

    Is 6 gauge wire going to be enough for standard purposes?
    I use 2AWG throughout for the battery-related cables.

    .

    Leave a comment:

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