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  • D2Dominator
    replied
    New boat, new system.

    Quick question: 2010 Star has a 50amp breaker feeding the underdash fuse panel. If this is isolated from the starter battery, and the house bank dies… will the boat still start?

    I’m guessing the ECM is mounted to the engine, but I’m not at the boat to verify. Anyone have insight?

    thx,
    D2

    Leave a comment:


  • dpb185
    replied
    Originally posted by waterlogged882 View Post

    Cable replacement is easy peasy. Hot from starter to battery (maybe lift a center floor section out for access) and the ground from the battery to a bolt on the block. Connect the battery ends last. Done deal.

    These old cables can corrode under the sheathing (site unseen) and create resistance, ultimately to the point of failure. Always good to have a new baseline for reference. Good call.

    .
    Nice to know, I have to remove the floor panel to install Perfect Pass and check the bilge pump anyway. Winter project list is piling up ...

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by dpb185 View Post

    After looking at making crimps on the web, I think #2 is probably the best option . Plus like you said it's probably a good idea to replace these wires anyway, I'm not having problems with them but they are 20 years old. I'll have to check how complex a job this is the next time I'm at the boat storage.
    Cable replacement is easy peasy. Hot from starter to battery (maybe lift a center floor section out for access) and the ground from the battery to a bolt on the block. Connect the battery ends last. Done deal.

    These old cables can corrode under the sheathing (site unseen) and create resistance, ultimately to the point of failure. Always good to have a new baseline for reference. Good call.

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • dpb185
    replied
    Originally posted by waterlogged882 View Post
    One of two:
    1) Cut the terminal off and crimp back a new ring connector lug. A pack of lugs are relatively inexpensive from Scamazon. A manual hand crimper will work...the crimps are just not real pretty, but that is not a show-stopper. I have seen people use a chisel and hammer to make (3-sided) hard crimps on larger connectors. The objective is to get a good connection at that point.

    2) Order a new wires (both hot and ground) with ring connector lugs attached. I do not suggest to get new cables as a way to throw in the towel but to be proactive in preventative maintenance. If you do, get tinned wire cables.

    That's about all I can suggest. I thought about something to use as an adapter but that wouldn't work.

    If you get to a point that you need a larger hole in (any) a ring connector use a Step bit (Harbor Freight) in a drill and it will enlarge the hole very nicely. Do not use any other type spiral bit...it will just twist and ruin the connector.

    Your diagram showes 1/0 AWG cable. That is a big cable. I personally use 2 AWG all around with no problems but that is your call.

    .
    After looking at making crimps on the web, I think #2 is probably the best option . Plus like you said it's probably a good idea to replace these wires anyway, I'm not having problems with them but they are 20 years old. I'll have to check how complex a job this is the next time I'm at the boat storage.

    Leave a comment:


  • MLA
    replied
    Still, 2 ga would handle 300'ish amps in a short run. WAY overkill for alternator load. As to not using 1/0 or using 2ga in other parts of the schematic, id calculate my own loads and see what you come up with.

    Leave a comment:


  • dpb185
    replied
    Originally posted by MLA View Post
    Does the boat have a 400A alternator?
    I stole that diagram from a previous post. I plan on using 2 AWG.

    Leave a comment:


  • MLA
    replied
    Does the boat have a 400A alternator?

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by dpb185 View Post
    Another termination question. The power wire coming from the engine to my single battery has a battery post terminal connection at the end. What's the best/easiest way to change this to a lug terminal ?
    One of two:
    1) Cut the terminal off and crimp back a new ring connector lug. A pack of lugs are relatively inexpensive from Scamazon. A manual hand crimper will work...the crimps are just not real pretty, but that is not a show-stopper. I have seen people use a chisel and hammer to make (3-sided) hard crimps on larger connectors. The objective is to get a good connection at that point.

    2) Order a new wires (both hot and ground) with ring connector lugs attached. I do not suggest to get new cables as a way to throw in the towel but to be proactive in preventative maintenance. If you do, get tinned wire cables.

    That's about all I can suggest. I thought about something to use as an adapter but that wouldn't work.

    If you get to a point that you need a larger hole in (any) a ring connector use a Step bit (Harbor Freight) in a drill and it will enlarge the hole very nicely. Do not use any other type spiral bit...it will just twist and ruin the connector.

    Your diagram showes 1/0 AWG cable. That is a big cable. I personally use 2 AWG all around with no problems but that is your call.

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • dpb185
    replied
    Another termination question. The power wire coming from the engine to my single battery has a battery post terminal connection at the end. What's the best/easiest way to change this to a lug terminal ? Wire is circles on the diagram below:
    Click image for larger version

Name:	Boat Dual Battery.jpg
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    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by dpb185 View Post

    Did you use standard or heavy walled lugs ?
    Standard lugs and (importantly) tinned wire.

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • dpb185
    replied
    Originally posted by waterlogged882 View Post

    Click image for larger version Name:	Wire03.jpg Views:	0 Size:	128.8 KB ID:	2695837

    .
    Click image for larger version Name:	Wire04.jpg Views:	0 Size:	98.8 KB ID:	2695838
    Did you use standard or heavy walled lugs ?

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by dpb185 View Post

    My first thought was to get them made at one of the companies you listed, just wanted to make sure that was the best bet. For the price of a crimper, I think I'll just pay for made up wires.
    I like Genuinedealz but they seem to have been out of stock for a lot of items for a good while. He is a one-person operation out of his basement but always has done me a good job in a timely manner. I feel certain that Greg's place (upon the recommendation here) is just fine. Best on the install.

    Leave a comment:


  • dpb185
    replied
    Originally posted by waterlogged882 View Post

    I will say this; if you make cables yourself, use a hydraulic crimp tool for best results. Manual crimpers do not make a nice crimp on the 2AWG wire. That point is what I like about the guy at Genuinedealz...he makes some really nice (shrink) crimp connections. I am sure the people at Greg's place will do the same. Genuinedealz charged me $1.00 per crimp... a good deal. They come in a box ready for plug and play. When you measure the length(s), be sure and measure up the side of the battery box and across the top of the battery. It's easy to come up 1-3 feet short.

    Not all terminal hole sizes in the connectors are the same. Read that again.
    My first thought was to get them made at one of the companies you listed, just wanted to make sure that was the best bet. For the price of a crimper, I think I'll just pay for made up wires.

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by dpb185 View Post

    This is another project on my list. A question, did you have Greg's make up your cables or did you make them up yourself ? And what gauge cables did you use ?
    I will say this; if you make cables yourself, use a hydraulic crimp tool for best results. Manual crimpers do not make a nice crimp on the 2AWG wire. That point is what I like about the guy at Genuinedealz...he makes some really nice (shrink) crimp connections. I am sure the people at Greg's place will do the same. Genuinedealz charged me $1.00 per crimp... a good deal. They come in a box ready for plug and play. When you measure the length(s), be sure and measure up the side of the battery box and across the top of the battery. It's easy to come up 1-3 feet short.

    Not all terminal post hole sizes in the connectors are the same (battery, starter solenoid, and starter relay). Read that again.

    .
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Wire03.jpg Views:	0 Size:	128.8 KB ID:	2695837

    .
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Wire04.jpg Views:	0 Size:	98.8 KB ID:	2695838

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by CantRepeat View Post
    In before, what’s the golf tee for?!!!
    I recently tagged you in a post about a photo I posted that you have not seen. There is another opportunity to see use for a golf tee.

    .

    Leave a comment:

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