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Dash Power Problem

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  • Dash Power Problem

    I have searched and tried all suggestions for similar problems but none has worked.

    I have a 1999 Maristar 230 VRS with vortec 5.7 and the problem did not exist before it was winterized but did exist when summarized, no wires were in the winterization nor summarization protocols.

    My problem is that my dash gauges, blower, bilge pump, and radio do not power. However, I can crank, start, and run my engine. I cannot stop my engine with the ignition switch or the engine kill switch lanyard, and had to stop it by pulling the distributor wire (I hope this didn't hurt anything). My depth finder does work.

    Here is what I have done so far:
    Charged battery, it was very low
    I have checked the battery cables both at the battery and engine
    I have checked all 3 15amp fuses on engine
    I have checked the ignition switch for loose wires
    I have checked all wires under dash for obvious problems (cut, bare wire showing, etc)
    I checked three inline fuses that go to the radio but can't locate any other fuses
    I have checked the wiring harness at both the engine and under dash

    I have no idea what to do next? If this indicates something obvious like a faulty solenoid then I'd like to fix it myself. The boat is on a lake that has no open ramps at the moment so hauling to MC is problematic.

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

  • #2
    I've been beating myself up on this all night and really need some suggestions. I should have also mentioned that the push button fuses are all fine. What has me most confused is that the engine starts but doesn't stop. If the non-switched accessories worked, I would think the problem is the ignition switch. I am back to tracing electrical wires in the boat today and will be looking at this thread hoping for help. I spent 3 hours looking at wires yesterday.

    Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the harness on the dash and/or engine side?


    • #3
      Based on your symptoms I'd go with you attached the cables wrong or the ignition switch is bad. Since you state that no cables were removed during either process that only leaves the switch. The switch is relatively cheap and would be worth changing out just to eliminate it from the equation.


      • #4
        Ignition switch theory, seems to be the weak link and because I put a new one in a 93 model last night (preventative maintenance). Found an identical 4-pole on line for $60.

        Wiring diagrams (per se') are few and far between with MC.

        I can assist somewhat with color codes and switch poles while I have my dash open. Not much to it really.
        93 190
        (safe click)
        John 14:6
        (safe click)