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88 prostar getting no spark.. replaced numerous things.

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  • 88 prostar getting no spark.. replaced numerous things.

    Have an 88 prostar, 351 engine with electric ignition. After I removed my dash one day to repaint it the boat began to act up. The kill switch is bypassed and appears to be well connect. Boat just turns over and doesn't fire. I replaced the plugs, cap/rotor, the ignition module and the coil. Still my boat has no spark. I removed a plug and set it on a grounded bolt and saw no spark when cranking the motor. I have voltage going to the coil and to the resistor.

    What am I missing? Ignition switch? Kill switch? Something else behind the dash that is messed up after I removed it? Just FYI when I had the dash removed I hooked everything up so I didn't forget how it went and the boat fired up. Just not sure what I'm missing.

  • #2
    power to coil? check connection when ignition key in on position.
    sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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    • #3
      Yes there is power to the coil and from the coil. Connectors are solid and have good contact.

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      • #4
        Make sure the gray tach wire isn't grounded.

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        • #5
          Which wire is that? I have a grey wire on the negative post of the coil.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Maverick View Post
            Which wire is that? I have a grey wire on the negative post of the coil.
            That's the other end. If that wire is connected to grond at either end, it will never start because the coil can't develop the magnetic field it needs to cause spark. You worked on the dash- look there.

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            • #7
              Ohhhh ok, I will be sure to check that. Finding that wire will be the fun part. Happen to know where it runs too? Or where it should be running too?

              When I've looked at schematics, I believe it's saying it runs to the tach?
              Last edited by Maverick; 10-31-2016, 09:40 AM.

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              • #8
                Alright so I removed my dash, the grey wire, I believe that is coming off the coil, was plugged into the back of the tach.. it was on a prong for the ground of the tach light. I removed it and plugged it into the middle prong (of the 3 prongs at the bottom of the tach, marked with a "w"). Tried to fire it up and still nothing. Again the grey wire is on my negative post of the coil, along with the black wire from EI out of the distributor. On the positive post is the red wire from the EI out of the distributor and an orange (that runs to the resistor). On the resistor, where the orange wire connects, there are 2 purple wires (one to the choke and the other to I don't know where. On the other side of the resistor is another orange wire.

                I'm really lost now.. not sure what's happened. I'm about to bypass the resistor and put full power to the coil. Only thing is my coil says use with external ballast. The connectors at the circuit board at the back of the motor are not corroded and look good..Help please

                The pics posted is the current setup of my dist/coil.. the other is the back of the tach, the dark blue wire is where the grey used to be and the grey is where I moved the dark blue from. Sorry if it's confusing

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                • #9
                  Pictures
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    uh.. what is up with that ballast resistor.. ???
                    sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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                    • #11
                      What do you mean, if your referring to the black stuff, it's just silicone on the terminal. Was like that when I bought it.

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                      • #12
                        I removed coil and hooked up the volt meter to it. I set it on olms and connect the meter to each post, it showed 2.0-2.1 olms.. shouldn't it be at 1.5-1.7? That's the brand new coil. I did the same with my old coil and it showed the same.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Maverick View Post
                          I removed coil and hooked up the volt meter to it. I set it on olms and connect the meter to each post, it showed 2.0-2.1 olms.. shouldn't it be at 1.5-1.7? That's the brand new coil. I did the same with my old coil and it showed the same.
                          Looking at the photo, I would re-terminate the orange wire- it looks like the insulation has been split and if moisture gets in, the wire will be damaged and that's a good way to have a problem that's hard to fix.

                          The tach should have some kind of marking for each post. If you're nt sure what each post is for, google the model of the tack and find a diagram online- it can save a lot of time.

                          DO NOT go straight to a 12V source and bypass the ballast- the points need this and unless the EI instructions state that it doesn't need this, it should stay connected. The ballast resistor is only in use after the key returns to the Run position after cranking- the other wire is from the Crank terminal on the ignition switch and it's a direct connection because the starter causes the voltage to drop while cranking.

                          You checked the coil's primary- you need to check the secondary winding, too.

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                          • #14
                            take the grey wire off you coil's negative terminal temporarily just to see if you can get it running. This will make any mis-wired problems at the gauges become irrelevant. Also... replace that poor balast resistor or get the pertronic kit to eliminate it, that poor thing looks like it's been beaten up and put away wet too many times.

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                            • #15
                              Yea there were markings, "s1", "w" and I think the last was blank. I'll replace the resistor and the orange wire, or I guess both orange wires.

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