Battery Draining Issues? Anyone?

[#snatchattack]

I have a 2000 XStar and I am having serious battery draining issues. Went through too many batteries in my opinion so far. The positive has been disconnected for a little bit, while we were working on the new stereo. The positive was left disconnected and the negative was still connected. Came back to complete the stereo install a few weeks later (I work alot) and the battery was dead as could be. First thought was bad battery, but installed a new battery (was suppose to be added as a second battery, but that is on hold) the positive was disconnected and when connecting the negative, it sparked. Second thought is a bad ground... Is that possible? Any ideas, thoughts, comments, suggestions?

[MLA]

Ok, if a battery has nothing connected to one post, doesnt matter which one, and it goes "dead" there is not a drain issue, but a battery issue. A battery cant be drained if its not connected.

With an audio amp wired up, there is typically a spark when trying to connect a cable. Thats due to the CAPs charging up inside the amp. Does not indicate an unwanted draw though.

[#snatchattack]

Ok, if a battery has nothing connected to one post, doesnt matter which one, and it goes "dead" there is not a drain issue, but a battery issue. A battery cant be drained if its not connected.

With an audio amp wired up, there is typically a spark when trying to connect a cable. Thats due to the CAPs charging up inside the amp. Does not indicate an unwanted draw though.

Thanks. I plan on trying to leave the positive disconnected for a few days on this new battery and see if it drains again. I did forget to mention we added a battery switch a few weeks ago too, not sure if there could be an issue there. I am no electrical person, I usually try to avoid it at all cost. I had a draining issue before I added the battery switch, but only when both cable were connected.

[JimN]

I have a 2000 XStar and I am having serious battery draining issues. Went through too many batteries in my opinion so far. The positive has been disconnected for a little bit, while we were working on the new stereo. The positive was left disconnected and the negative was still connected. Came back to complete the stereo install a few weeks later (I work alot) and the battery was dead as could be. First thought was bad battery, but installed a new battery (was suppose to be added as a second battery, but that is on hold) the positive was disconnected and when connecting the negative, it sparked. Second thought is a bad ground... Is that possible? Any ideas, thoughts, comments, suggestions?

Ever read a Chilton's manual? The first step in ALL repairs, according to them is "Disconnect the negative cable from the battery".

Do you have a multi-meter? Set it to measure current and connect it to one of the cables and its post. Make sure it's able to handle at least 10A and if it isn't designed for that much, get one that has a clamp for larger loads. Read the current and start pulling fuses, one at a time. When you get to the one that draws the most, find out why. If you find that the draw is more than a few milli-amps and the only thing connected is the alternator, have it checked- the bridge rectifier can fail and cause this. It's a good time to think about upgrading the alternator's charging capability- that case can now be upgraded to about 115Amps according to the owner of a shop that I use for alternators and starters.

I never recommend replacing when a rebuild can be done- there's nothing to change and it's a direct fit.

[CantRepeat]

Ever read a Chilton's manual? The first step in ALL repairs, according to them is "Disconnect the negative cable from the battery".

Do you have a multi-meter? Set it to measure current and connect it to one of the cables and its post. Make sure it's able to handle at least 10A and if it isn't designed for that much, get one that has a clamp for larger loads. Read the current and start pulling fuses, one at a time. When you get to the one that draws the most, find out why. If you find that the draw is more than a few milli-amps and the only thing connected is the alternator, have it checked- the bridge rectifier can fail and cause this. It's a good time to think about upgrading the alternator's charging capability- that case can now be upgraded to about 115Amps according to the owner of a shop that I use for alternators and starters.

I never recommend replacing when a rebuild can be done- there's nothing to change and it's a direct fit.

If you have a good shop that can do the rebuild. We've got a local shop but he probably has a 35% failure rate on his rebuilds.

[JimN]

If you have a good shop that can do the rebuild. We've got a local shop but he probably has a 35% failure rate on his rebuilds.

How are they still in business?

[CantRepeat]

How are they still in business?

Part of the "Unsolved Mysteries" series.

[#snatchattack]

Ever read a Chilton's manual? The first step in ALL repairs, according to them is "Disconnect the negative cable from the battery".

Do you have a multi-meter? Set it to measure current and connect it to one of the cables and its post. Make sure it's able to handle at least 10A and if it isn't designed for that much, get one that has a clamp for larger loads. Read the current and start pulling fuses, one at a time. When you get to the one that draws the most, find out why. If you find that the draw is more than a few milli-amps and the only thing connected is the alternator, have it checked- the bridge rectifier can fail and cause this. It's a good time to think about upgrading the alternator's charging capability- that case can now be upgraded to about 115Amps according to the owner of a shop that I use for alternators and starters.

I never recommend replacing when a rebuild can be done- there's nothing to change and it's a direct fit.

No I have not ever read that manual I will keep it in mind! I think we can get a multi-meter. So I will try that test ^^, when I get a chance. If that is the case I will have to find a place to rebuild the alternator. Thanks for the info!

[j2shay]

I am sure Jim n will know far more than anyone here, but I have a 2000 prostar 190 that had a problem of the power draining when not in use. The original owner put in a perko switch and never had issues since. I have not had any issues and turn it off when not in use. Hope this helps and might be worth a try if you can't isolate the problem any other way. Good luck!

Joel

[#snatchattack]

I am sure Jim n will know far more than anyone here, but I have a 2000 prostar 190 that had a problem of the power draining when not in use. The original owner put in a perko switch and never had issues since. I have not had any issues and turn it off when not in use. Hope this helps and might be worth a try if you can't isolate the problem any other way. Good luck!

Joel

We just put a perko switch in it and it still drained the battery. Hopefully I get to run it tomorrow and see what it does a few days after.

[MLA]

We just put a perko switch in it and it still drained the battery. Hopefully I get to run it tomorrow and see what it does a few days after.

You've got multiple issues then. Something failed and something wired incorrectly. If the switch is off and a battery still goes dead, A) its a bad battery, B) it was dead already, C) something is wired direct to the battery and is failed or on, causing an unwanted draw.

This actually simplifies things. if wired correctly, you eliminate 99% of the boat as the draw, leaving you the auto bilge pump as the only thing that should circumvent the switch.

[j2shay]

Ok please let us know your findings. I hate ongoing issues like this, and I am sure you hate them more currently. Good luck

Joel

[1redTA]

is your bilge pump wired directly to the battery?

[JimN]

No I have not ever read that manual I will keep it in mind! I think we can get a multi-meter. So I will try that test ^^, when I get a chance. If that is the case I will have to find a place to rebuild the alternator. Thanks for the info!

Some auto parts stores have manuals that have been opened, so you may be able to see if it has a good troubleshooting section.

If you can't find a Chilton's manual that applies, look for one from Haynes or Indmar.

If the battery drains with the Perko shut off, look at the battery and count the wires that are connected- if it's one red and one black, remove the orange wire from the post on the alternator and tape the end so it can't touch anything. Let it sit and check the battery the next day- if it's good, the cause is in the alternator, as I posted before.

[#snatchattack]

Some auto parts stores have manuals that have been opened, so you may be able to see if it has a good troubleshooting section.

If you can't find a Chilton's manual that applies, look for one from Haynes or Indmar.

If the battery drains with the Perko shut off, look at the battery and count the wires that are connected- if it's one red and one black, remove the orange wire from the post on the alternator and tape the end so it can't touch anything. Let it sit and check the battery the next day- if it's good, the cause is in the alternator, as I posted before.

So before we got to in depth with figuring the issue out. We double checked the perko switch and needless to stay it was wired wrong.... With that being said we had a friendly mechanic hook up the switch.... So correct me if I'm wrong the power cable goes from the starter to the common on the perko switch right?