Nav Anchor lights throw fuse 2007 X2

[derfsaint]

I just bought a new (to me) 2007 X2. When I turn on the nav lights or the anchor lights, the fuse is immediately tripped. I took the boat to a Mastercraft dealership to have a bunch of other things done to it. They said the nav lights were corroded and needed to be replaced. I told them I would replace them myself. I did, and the fuse is still tripped when turning on the anchor or the nav lights. I disconnected the wires going to the tower, and the fuse still trips. Any idea what to try next?

[MLA]

Id look close at the 360 anchor light circuit, since its the only light that on on both positions. Pinched or rubbed through the tower sounds logical.

[derfsaint]

That's a good point, MLA. I disconnected the wires going to the 360 anchor light at the quick disconnect on the tower. Are you thinking it may be shorting out somewhere between the switch and the the tower disconnect? Could/should I disconnect each wire one at a time from the switch, and see if the fuse stops throwing?

[MLA]

I disconnected the wires going to the 360 anchor light at the quick disconnect on the tower.

If the fuse doesnt blow, you isolated it to the 360 and to the section between the connector and lamp. If it still blows, still could be the 360 but between the switch and connector.

[derfsaint]

Got it, thank you.

[JimN]

I just bought a new (to me) 2007 X2. When I turn on the nav lights or the anchor lights, the fuse is immediately tripped. I took the boat to a Mastercraft dealership to have a bunch of other things done to it. They said the nav lights were corroded and needed to be replaced. I told them I would replace them myself. I did, and the fuse is still tripped when turning on the anchor or the nav lights. I disconnected the wires going to the tower, and the fuse still trips. Any idea what to try next?

How did you make the new connections? If you twisted and taped the wires, go back and use Heat N Seal butt splices.

If you pulled on the wires coming up from below the gunwale, go under and look for chafing. If it's chafed, repair the wires and use some kind of protective wire loom.

If you know someone who does custom installation of AV equipment, ask if they have a TDR (Time Domain Reflectometer)- connect it to the wires at the switch and it will show the distance to the short.

[derfsaint]

Thank you JimN. Never knew TDRs existed.

[JimN]

Thank you JimN. Never knew TDRs existed.

We use them because it's often impossible to see the cabling and it saves a lot of time. I borrowed one when a camera went out at a bar/restaurant and when I pulled the cables out, it was clear that some kind of critter had chewed them.

[derfsaint]

Welp, here is an update:

I crawled under the dash and removed all the wires from the switch.

On the "left" side of the switch there are three prongs. A daisy chained grey/black wire connects to the "top" and "bottom" prongs. An orange wire connects to the middle prong. All other wires are disconnected. If I connect the orange wire, connect the top grey/black wire, throw the switch up nothing happens, throw it down and the fuse blows. If I disconnect the top grey/black wire and connect the bottom grey/black wire, and move the switch up, nothing happens. When I move the switch down, the fuse blows.

On the "right" side of the switch. Basically the same thing happens. Connect the orange wire and the one grey/black wire (daisy chained from the other side) and move the switch nothing happens one way, the other way, the fuse blows.

(There is also a black wire which connects to the top-center prong, and a bundle of blue/light blue/black wire that connects to the bottom right-side...)

Am I right in thinking the right side of the switch is for the NAV lights and the left side of the switch is for the ANC light? Like MLA pointed out below, the anchor light is suspect because the fuse blows on both sides of the switch. Or, is it the switch? Breaker? Or something else? Can I bypass the switch and connect wires together to see which combo is blowing the fuse?

Thanks again for your input.

[JimN]

Welp, here is an update:

I crawled under the dash and removed all the wires from the switch.

On the "left" side of the switch there are three prongs. A daisy chained grey/black wire connects to the "top" and "bottom" prongs. An orange wire connects to the middle prong. All other wires are disconnected. If I connect the orange wire, connect the top grey/black wire, throw the switch up nothing happens, throw it down and the fuse blows. If I disconnect the top grey/black wire and connect the bottom grey/black wire, and move the switch up, nothing happens. When I move the switch down, the fuse blows.

On the "right" side of the switch. Basically the same thing happens. Connect the orange wire and the one grey/black wire (daisy chained from the other side) and move the switch nothing happens one way, the other way, the fuse blows.

(There is also a black wire which connects to the top-center prong, and a bundle of blue/light blue/black wire that connects to the bottom right-side...)

Am I right in thinking the right side of the switch is for the NAV lights and the left side of the switch is for the ANC light? Like MLA pointed out below, the anchor light is suspect because the fuse blows on both sides of the switch. Or, is it the switch? Breaker? Or something else? Can I bypass the switch and connect wires together to see which combo is blowing the fuse?

Thanks again for your input.

First, you need to know which wires do what, then, you need to know how the switch works, e.g., which tabs are input & which are output. These switches usually have the input going to the middle tab and both of the others are output, depending on their position. If the switch has two set of three, one is used for the nav light and the other is for the anchor light and neither should have a + AND a - connected to the switch, only the +.

Do you have two sets of wires, with two wires in each? If so, test each by connecting the wires to a battery with a fuse in the way of the light- could be the boat's battery, a battery from a cordless tool, whatever. It should illuminate without blowing a fuse. If they bow the fuse, find the problem. If you have a meter, find the connections of the switch, or better yet, look for any numbers printed on it and look online- they should have the pinout posted.

Can you post a photo of the tabs on the switch and the wires?

[waterlogged882]

If this helps...works for me.

best luck

.

[MLA]

The gray wire is the anchor light switched positive (B+). Since the fuse only blows when the switch is activates, we know its from the switch out. Since it blows in both positions, odds are, its the anchor circuit, the gray. Cant remember NAV light color, but if you pull it from the switch and the fuse still blows, you've proved its the anchor circuit.

Need an ohm meter. Clip to the disconnected gray wire with one lead and touch the tower with lead and see if there is continuity. Then touch to the boat's ground.

You said there was a tower disconnect, separate it and then test both side. same way.

[Footin]

Somewhere a power wire is grounding out against a metal object....like the tower.

[derfsaint]

Requested pictures

Here are the pictures that were requested. According to an older thread, the part number is this one, but no schematic offered.

https://mcpartsdepot.com/products/switch-toggle-on-off-on-red-nav-anc-acc2-ctsy8prgblst200-215-230-245-05-09

I will have time to test and chase spark tomorrow. Thanks for all the support.

[Footin]

Wiring Diagram: Look at page 17