need a new alternator for 02 x-star, suggestions?

[little_franny]

We have had a DB electronics alternator universal fit 150 amp 11si for the last 3 years. It is now seized and I need to replaced it, they also don't sell the part number I have anymore.

Never was quite happy with this alternator as it would throw the low voltage alarm at idle unless I put boat in neutral and brought RPM up to around 625-650.

ALL battery cables were replaced 3 years ago with the new alternator and problem has been there since day 1.

Boat is an 02 x-star with the MCX and a v-belt setup. Stereo is nothing crazy, 2 amps, 4 cabin, 2 tower and 1 sub.

I just want something that will charge at idle enough to keep the alarm from going off.

Any good suggestions?

[Tristarboarder]

MCX? Please verify

[little_franny]

yup, mcx predator 310hp throttle body injection

[waterlogged882]

We have had a DB electronics alternator universal fit 150 amp 11si for the last 3 years. It is now seized and I need to replaced it, they also don't sell the part number I have anymore.

Never was quite happy with this alternator as it would throw the low voltage alarm at idle unless I put boat in neutral and brought RPM up to around 625-650.

ALL battery cables were replaced 3 years ago with the new alternator and problem has been there since day 1.

Boat is an 02 x-star with the MCX and a v-belt setup. Stereo is nothing crazy, 2 amps, 4 cabin, 2 tower and 1 sub.

I just want something that will charge at idle enough to keep the alarm from going off.

Any good suggestions?

I got nothing aside from the original source.

As a comment for further conversation; I think your ailment of low voltage is a result of the inherent advantage of the built-in exciter. I think the exciter is RPM based and engages at about the RPMs you describe, thus the further voltage output (or lack of) at that point.

I never gave that any thought until you pointed it out here. I have an all mechanical setup and there is not a low voltage alarm on my 93, so I would never know that (by virtue of no alarm) nor has it ever been an issue of performance. I do have a digital voltage readout that gets little attention.

Thanks for the input on this particular issue.

.

[little_franny]

I got nothing aside from the original source.

As a comment for further conversation; I think your ailment of low voltage is a result of the inherent advantage of the built-in exciter. I think the exciter is RPM based and engages at about the RPMs you describe, thus the further voltage output (or lack of) at that point.

I never gave that any thought until you pointed it out here. I have an all mechanical setup and there is not a low voltage alarm on my 93, so I would never know that (by virtue of no alarm) nor has it ever been an issue of performance. I do have a digital voltage readout that gets little attention.

Thanks for the input on this particular issue.

.

Agreed on the internal rpm setpoint of the exciter, I looked into making the alt pulley smaller or the crank pulley larger but I don't think I can make either happen, there has to be something on the market that works. This is not some unicorn boat. At this point I would settle for a lower amp alternator to get rid of the buzzer at idle.

Even thought about trying to adjust base idle up to about 600 rpm, but since the ECU controls idle with the stepper motor I didn't want to screw with that.

Open to all suggestions

Thanks In advance

[Gamble]

What about pulling the alternator and taking it to an alternator shop and have it rebuilt?

[little_franny]

What about pulling the alternator and taking it to an alternator shop and have it rebuilt?

Its an option, but I don't know that they can cure the idle low voltage buzzer, I feel like it would just be a rebuilt alternator with the same issue

[waterlogged882]

Its an option, but I don't know that they can cure the idle low voltage buzzer, I feel like it would just be a rebuilt alternator with the same issue

Which makes me think you have a different issue other than the output of the alternator (and obviously the bearings).

.

[little_franny]

Which makes me think you have a different issue other than the output of the alternator (and obviously the bearings).

.

I'm open to suggestions, but if the universal alternator is designed to excite and start charging at 600 rpm and the boat idles at 525, then when idling you don't get any output. I could go back to the OEM 55 amp alternator, but I feel like with the upgraded stereo and ballast pumps it would be maxing it out all the time.

The buzzer does not go off immediately when returning to idle, it can be anywhere from 30 seconds if I am draining/filling a bag to 5 minutes if the stereo is off and we are just floating with the engine idling. Inevitably it happen when a rider is in the water and the stereo is going. I then have to deal with the buzzer till I get the rider and then have to shut ignition off to reset buzzer. then upon restart have to resync the phone and get music to play. The whole process just adds to the task load.

[Gamble]

Personally, I would have your alternator checked by a shop. Verify output......I wouldn't be changing pulleys. You may have already had it checked.........if you haven't that would be the easiest and first step. Then I would begin checking all of my connections at the battery, the ground, etc. Put a meter on your battery when you idle after you've had your alternator checked or rebuilt if it needs it. See what the meter is showing when you get the buzzer. I'm also suspect that if your alternator is working correctly and all the diodes inside it are working as they should, you have another issue. I too run a stereo, 2 amps, and pumps, and don't have this issue. I'm certain what you're experiencing is a pain in the butt and certainly fixable. Just my .02 and I hope it helps.

[Rossterman]

I have the same one on my 01 205v and it has been flawless. Maybe some shop can adjust the exciter rpm while replacing the bearings?

[little_franny]

I have the same one on my 01 205v and it has been flawless. Maybe some shop can adjust the exciter rpm while replacing the bearings?

Ok, ill have to see if I can find one. Just out of curiosity, what is your operating temp neutral idle RPM?

[Wolflake X-2]

2004 X-2 does the same thing when filling/emptying bags when in neutral idling. I also have to increase RPMS to stop the alarm from buzzing. I don’t have to kill the engine once I’m done filling/emptying. Shortly after increasing RPMS while running the pumps the alarm will stop. I was considering doing an upgraded alternator also but if that won’t stop the alarm then I see no point in changing. If anyone else has experienced the same and found a solution please chime in.


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[little_franny]

2004 X-2 does the same thing when filling/emptying bags when in neutral idling. I also have to increase RPMS to stop the alarm from buzzing. I don’t have to kill the engine once I’m done filling/emptying. Shortly after increasing RPMS while running the pumps the alarm will stop. I was considering doing an upgraded alternator also but if that won’t stop the alarm then I see no point in changing. If anyone else has experienced the same and found a solution please chime in.


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Mastercrafts owners manual states that when filling/emptying bags you must increase idle speed, I get this considering the ballast pumps draw about 20 amps a piece, but mine does this when no emptying/filling the bags.

[little_franny]

Ok, so I went with the DB electrical 95 amp replacement alternator, same case as the 150 DB I had. After a solid day on the water I did not have a single low voltage alarm. I only idled up in neutral when I was filling or draining ballast and I idled at the dock at the end of the day for 35 minutes with stereo on while we cleaned and flushed the boat (before this would not have lasted 5 minutes). Im guessing either I had a bad alternator from the get go, or the 150 is modified in such a way that it does charge sufficiently at lower RPM.

Thank you for all your suggestions