Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

No Voltage to Fuel Pump

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Jackfrost
    replied
    So I.ve replaced the pump again and the regulator.
    I thought it was the fuel relay because when i put in a new one it would start the fuel pump, pressurize the system and start the engine..
    I have tested the 6 relays I thought were toast and they test to be fine.... wth
    This is what i have at the socket for the relay
    Pin86 11.84v
    Pin30 12.34v
    Pin85 0.3ohms

    Why is there a difference in voltages?

    Leave a comment:


  • peytonvp
    replied
    Originally posted by Jackfrost View Post
    I found that a 2002 dodge 2500 pick up has the same regulator and is set to 5si. I.m going to order and try that one tomorrow.
    Glad to hear your problem was solved.
    Did you have blowing relays too.?
    I did have a bad relay that would make the boat shut off after running it for so long. That has been replaced and it seems that the problem has been fixed with about 6 hours on the boat since the new relay. As far as the regulator goes I wish you the best of luck because I think that might have been the exact same one that I ordered and it was supposed to operate with 5si. I do not know what the reasoning was but it would not put out proper pressure. Hopefully your luck fairs better than mine!

    Leave a comment:


  • Jackfrost
    replied
    I found that a 2002 dodge 2500 pick up has the same regulator and is set to 5si. I.m going to order and try that one tomorrow.
    Glad to hear your problem was solved.
    Did you have blowing relays too.?

    Leave a comment:


  • peytonvp
    replied
    I have just been going through similar problems. I determined that my pressure regulator was bad as fuel pressure would bleed off. I had trouble finding a pressure regulator as Mastercraft will not sell you just the regulator. I back tracked the part to a 99 dodge pickup and figured I would give it a go for $50 instead of over $800 for the complete module. The new pressure regulator fixed the problem of the pressure bleeding off but it held a constant 40psi so the boat could only idle. Unfortunately I had to buy a complete new module to get the right regulator but all the problems have been fixed.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jackfrost
    replied
    Another observation... when retesting the system from regulator to pump for air leakage I could gently pass air through. once I applied higher air pressure the fuel pump seemed to lock up and hold pressure. Must be some type of valve.

    Another question... should i have been able to back pressure those components? Or is my fuel regulator toast too?

    Leave a comment:


  • Jackfrost
    replied
    One problem solved
    2 clamps holding the convoluted tubing inside of the fuel pump canister were not tight enough to seal. I used a kids balloon blower to pass air from the regulator down the tubing to the pump. I could hear the bubbling from outside the tank. Pulled the canister made some adjustments and voila. Sealed perfectly.

    Now I just have to figure out why the fuel relay keeps blowing.

    How many amps are the relays?

    Does anyone have an idea?

    Leave a comment:


  • Jackfrost
    replied
    I replaced the gear clamps with ear clamps to see if that stopped the bleed down of the fuel pressure.

    I decided to put my lips on the fuel reg and blow gently to see if theRe was a leak in the line.
    I found that the new fuel pump just allows the air to pass through.
    I have read though that the pump should stop back flow. It definitely does not. When I cover the main entrance to the pump the air expels through the little hole on the side.

    Is this supposed to be this way?
    I know people put holes in their sump pit pipes to stop lockups by allowing draining

    So many different opinions... who really knows

    I.m listening to all opinions

    Leave a comment:


  • lakedrum03
    replied
    Yes. Had to replace mine.

    Leave a comment:


  • prostar205
    replied
    Originally posted by lakedrum03 View Post
    Sounds to me like either a bad plug or bag relay
    Are you referring to the plug that goes to the connector on top of the fuel pump? I have new relays coming today.

    Leave a comment:


  • lakedrum03
    replied
    Sounds to me like either a bad plug or bag relay

    Leave a comment:


  • prostar205
    replied
    Originally posted by Cedaw View Post
    Sometimes when a fuel pump goes bad it damages the oil pressure switch that supplies power to the fuel pump


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Anyone got a picture of this oil pressure switch? The voltage to my fuel pump is intermittent - sometimes at 12V when the key is turned over and sometimes in the milli-volt range when the key is turned over.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jackfrost
    replied
    I won't be able to get the codes read until the end of the season.

    My trailer is in for repairs.

    I will keep you posted.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jackfrost
    replied
    Thanks for the pics.
    I am definitely a visual learner.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cedaw
    replied
    Sometimes when a fuel pump goes bad it damages the oil pressure switch that supplies power to the fuel pump


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • mikeg205
    replied
    Originally posted by Jackfrost View Post
    2007 ProStar 197
    These symptoms were before and after replacement of the fuel pump.
    The fuel pump was replaced yesterday.
    I did notice that the fuel pump had been replaced previously.

    Upon turning the key to ON

    1. The power line to the Fuel pump receives 12.14V (instantly) and then drops to just about zero
    2. Fuel pressure jumps to 60PSI and then drops to Zero.
    I have duplicated this repeatedly using the killswitch button.

    Upon turning the key through ON to START (sometimes)

    1. Engine cranks for 4-5 seconds and starts
    2. Fuel pressure rises to 60PSI and stays there
    3. The odd time it will die - very rare

    Upon turning the key through ON to START (sometimes)

    4. Engine turns over but no 12V to pump

    Upon turning key to off (always)

    5. Fuel pressure drops quickly

    The 3 x 20AMP fuses are fine.
    The Relays are fine too.


    Is the ECM next in line before the Relays? How do I test the ECM?

    Is it possible the ECM is receiving intermittant power?

    I hope this is clear.
    Need codes to see what is up.. do you get cel? Could be faulty ignition module... no spark ecu shuts down

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X