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  • gweaver
    replied
    The kill switch should have two male spade connectors. Disconnect it, then make a female to female jumper wire with two male connectors and a short piece of wire.
    Something like this:


    That should complete the circuit and allow you to bypass the safety switch.
    It's not required to bypass with that jumper, but it'll be easier than trying to hold the two female connectors together and start the boat.
    G

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  • mikeg205
    replied
    Kill switch open circuit wil kill engine same with ignition.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Jackfrost
    replied
    I will check the plugs tomorrow.
    Thanks for the advise.

    How do I jump the Kill Switch to rule it out?

    How do I jump the Ingition Switch to rule it out?

    Leave a comment:


  • StingrayDad
    replied
    Does this boat have a lanyard? If so that could be your electrical issue. Only way to loose fuel pressure is injectors or fuel pressure regulator. Not to send you on a wild goose chase but if you pulled the plugs and found a wet one that would lead me to believe an injector is sticking open.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • Jackfrost
    replied
    I am a little shy about doing WOT with the clamshell wide open, to get a fuel pressure reading.
    Last edited by Jackfrost; 08-29-2020, 12:55 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jackfrost
    replied
    When the boat does start it goes to 60psi and stays there.
    It stays there up to 2000rpm and faster.

    When the boat is turned off the psi drops quickly.

    Could there be a check valve somewhere that is not working?

    It linked perfectly well, thanks.

    So, now I believe there are 2 issues:

    1. PSI dropping fast with engine shut off
    2. Intermittent 12V signal to the relays, fuses and pump

    Head scratcher
    Last edited by Jackfrost; 08-29-2020, 12:31 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • gweaver
    replied
    Over time, it could drop to 0. The big question is when you start the boat, what’s the fuel pressure? At idle, it should maintain constant-ish pressure, and as you increase throttle position, the pressure reading should increase until you’re around 60psi at WOT.
    https://teamtalk.mastercraft.com/att...hmentid=194268
    (Doing this on an iPad, not sure how to make that a link.)

    G

    Leave a comment:


  • Jackfrost
    replied
    Read the posts. I've been down a lot of those roads.

    Something not touched upon is, should the fuel pressure with key on position go up to 60 and then slowly drop to zero (say within a minute)?

    Is this a pressure regulator problem?

    Leave a comment:


  • KMS
    replied
    12V at key on and then dropping to millivolts is normal.
    Read through this thread.

    https://teamtalk.mastercraft.com/sho...d.php?t=106197

    Leave a comment:


  • Jackfrost
    started a topic No Voltage to Fuel Pump

    No Voltage to Fuel Pump

    2007 ProStar 197
    These symptoms were before and after replacement of the fuel pump.
    The fuel pump was replaced yesterday.
    I did notice that the fuel pump had been replaced previously.

    Upon turning the key to ON

    1. The power line to the Fuel pump receives 12.14V (instantly) and then drops to just about zero
    2. Fuel pressure jumps to 60PSI and then drops to Zero.
    I have duplicated this repeatedly using the killswitch button.

    Upon turning the key through ON to START (sometimes)

    1. Engine cranks for 4-5 seconds and starts
    2. Fuel pressure rises to 60PSI and stays there
    3. The odd time it will die - very rare

    Upon turning the key through ON to START (sometimes)

    4. Engine turns over but no 12V to pump

    Upon turning key to off (always)

    5. Fuel pressure drops quickly

    The 3 x 20AMP fuses are fine.
    The Relays are fine too.


    Is the ECM next in line before the Relays? How do I test the ECM?

    Is it possible the ECM is receiving intermittant power?

    I hope this is clear.
    Last edited by Jackfrost; 08-29-2020, 02:06 PM.
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