No Voltage to Fuel Pump

[Jackfrost]

2007 ProStar 197
These symptoms were before and after replacement of the fuel pump.
The fuel pump was replaced yesterday.
I did notice that the fuel pump had been replaced previously.

Upon turning the key to ON

1. The power line to the Fuel pump receives 12.14V (instantly) and then drops to just about zero
2. Fuel pressure jumps to 60PSI and then drops to Zero.
I have duplicated this repeatedly using the killswitch button.

Upon turning the key through ON to START (sometimes)

1. Engine cranks for 4-5 seconds and starts
2. Fuel pressure rises to 60PSI and stays there
3. The odd time it will die - very rare

Upon turning the key through ON to START (sometimes)

4. Engine turns over but no 12V to pump

Upon turning key to off (always)

5. Fuel pressure drops quickly

The 3 x 20AMP fuses are fine.
The Relays are fine too.


Is the ECM next in line before the Relays? How do I test the ECM?

Is it possible the ECM is receiving intermittant power?

I hope this is clear.

[KMS]

12V at key on and then dropping to millivolts is normal.
Read through this thread.

https://teamtalk.mastercraft.com/showthread.php?t=106197

[Jackfrost]

Read the posts. I've been down a lot of those roads.

Something not touched upon is, should the fuel pressure with key on position go up to 60 and then slowly drop to zero (say within a minute)?

Is this a pressure regulator problem?

[gweaver]

Over time, it could drop to 0. The big question is when you start the boat, what’s the fuel pressure? At idle, it should maintain constant-ish pressure, and as you increase throttle position, the pressure reading should increase until you’re around 60psi at WOT.

https://teamtalk.mastercraft.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194268

(Doing this on an iPad, not sure how to make that a link.)

G

[Jackfrost]

When the boat does start it goes to 60psi and stays there.
It stays there up to 2000rpm and faster.

When the boat is turned off the psi drops quickly.

Could there be a check valve somewhere that is not working?

It linked perfectly well, thanks.

So, now I believe there are 2 issues:

1. PSI dropping fast with engine shut off
2. Intermittent 12V signal to the relays, fuses and pump

Head scratcher

[Jackfrost]

I am a little shy about doing WOT with the clamshell wide open, to get a fuel pressure reading.

[StingrayDad]

Does this boat have a lanyard? If so that could be your electrical issue. Only way to loose fuel pressure is injectors or fuel pressure regulator. Not to send you on a wild goose chase but if you pulled the plugs and found a wet one that would lead me to believe an injector is sticking open.


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[Jackfrost]

I will check the plugs tomorrow.
Thanks for the advise.

How do I jump the Kill Switch to rule it out?

How do I jump the Ingition Switch to rule it out?

[mikeg205]

Kill switch open circuit wil kill engine same with ignition.

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[gweaver]

The kill switch should have two male spade connectors. Disconnect it, then make a female to female jumper wire with two male connectors and a short piece of wire.
Something like this:


That should complete the circuit and allow you to bypass the safety switch.
It's not required to bypass with that jumper, but it'll be easier than trying to hold the two female connectors together and start the boat.
G

[mikeg205]

2007 ProStar 197
These symptoms were before and after replacement of the fuel pump.
The fuel pump was replaced yesterday.
I did notice that the fuel pump had been replaced previously.

Upon turning the key to ON

1. The power line to the Fuel pump receives 12.14V (instantly) and then drops to just about zero
2. Fuel pressure jumps to 60PSI and then drops to Zero.
I have duplicated this repeatedly using the killswitch button.

Upon turning the key through ON to START (sometimes)

1. Engine cranks for 4-5 seconds and starts
2. Fuel pressure rises to 60PSI and stays there
3. The odd time it will die - very rare

Upon turning the key through ON to START (sometimes)

4. Engine turns over but no 12V to pump

Upon turning key to off (always)

5. Fuel pressure drops quickly

The 3 x 20AMP fuses are fine.
The Relays are fine too.


Is the ECM next in line before the Relays? How do I test the ECM?

Is it possible the ECM is receiving intermittant power?

I hope this is clear.

Need codes to see what is up.. do you get cel? Could be faulty ignition module... no spark ecu shuts down

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[Cedaw]

Sometimes when a fuel pump goes bad it damages the oil pressure switch that supplies power to the fuel pump


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[Jackfrost]

Thanks for the pics.
I am definitely a visual learner.

[Jackfrost]

I won't be able to get the codes read until the end of the season.

My trailer is in for repairs.

I will keep you posted.

[prostar205]

Sometimes when a fuel pump goes bad it damages the oil pressure switch that supplies power to the fuel pump


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Anyone got a picture of this oil pressure switch? The voltage to my fuel pump is intermittent - sometimes at 12V when the key is turned over and sometimes in the milli-volt range when the key is turned over.