Does the system have a relay? Fuel pump runs 3-4 seconds when you turn the key on and goes off. It will leak fuel out if you loosen a fitting But is not getting enough thur thottle body to run. I can start and keep running on Gumout but is not getting fuel.Put another 12v electric fuel pump on it and it does the same thing. If i wait 30-40 seconds i hear three beeps and then turn key back on and the pump will run 3-4 seconds again and stop. If i do this three or four times i get enough gas to start and then it quits. Any help will be greatly appeciated. THANKS BAMBAM
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Fuel problem 95 Pro Star
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Originally posted by bambamDoes the system have a relay? Fuel pump runs 3-4 seconds when you turn the key on and goes off. It will leak fuel out if you loosen a fitting But is not getting enough thur thottle body to run. I can start and keep running on Gumout but is not getting fuel.Put another 12v electric fuel pump on it and it does the same thing. If i wait 30-40 seconds i hear three beeps and then turn key back on and the pump will run 3-4 seconds again and stop. If i do this three or four times i get enough gas to start and then it quits. Any help will be greatly appeciated. THANKS BAMBAM
Engine NutEngine Nut
Indmar Marine Engines
Power to the Sport
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What has been done to the boat recently- any work near the tank? Did it sit for a long time? Do you leave your gas in cans outside? If you bought the gas on the water, do they sell a lot of gas or not?
The mantra at MC training and on hold at Indmar was "80% of all driveability problems are fuel related". Check fuel pressure at key ON and see if it's close to 30 lbs (if there's a return line) and about 18 (with no return). It could still show OK at key ON but not run, so you need to do what Engine Nut said and see if the pump turns on during cranking. If it does, you need to start looking at every part of the fuel system, starting at the tank. Don't worry, it's not that grizzly. Remove the fuel pickup tube and see if it's clogged (common enough to say something about it), anti-siphon valve (same assembly), primary fuel filter (a lot of people forget about this one), fuel line needs to be checked for something resting on it or de-laminating and the fuel pump screen needs to be checked/cleared. There's a Shrader valve on the hard fuel line and Sears sells a gauge with a bleeder valve, which makes it perfect for taking a fuel sample, which should also be done when there's a suspected fuel issue. Use a known clean container, preferably clear. Let it sit for about half hour to see if anything settles out. You'll see if the gas has garbage in it.
BTW- a Bosch relay can be found at any good car audio shop. Get the kind with a diode in it to suppress spikes.Last edited by JimN; 04-30-2007, 09:22 PM.
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Last year I had to take the fuel line from inside the tank out and remove the check valve, as it had gotten clogged from the cloth filter after 22 years of use. It was a nightmare to figure out, I drained the tank 1st, then put a new fuel pump on, then rebuilt the carb. Mine would work at full throttle for 30-45 secs and then die, wait a few mins and it would run again. FWIW.
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