Fuel pump aftermarket part numbers

[epnault]

Can someone tell me what size tool I need for the fuel line couplers? I was looking at Napa and they have one tool that works on 3/8", 1/2", 5/8" & 3/4" Fuel & AC Lines. Wondering if any of these sizes match

[rhsprostar]

Bill

The 2044 will work fine for your application.

When you replace just the pump and not the whole module you don't have to worry about boat specific part numbers.. The difference is that each boat has a different shape gas tank and when you replace the whole module you have to make sure that you get the proper size module for your specific tank. When you are just replacing the pump you reuse all of the module components and therefore do not need to worry about the specific module numbers.
In other words an mcx is an mcx is an mcx, no matter what boat it is in. The actual fuel pump is the same across the board.

Hope that makes sense.

Can someone pm me the pdf chart referenced above or send a good link. I would love to see what mine is in the reference sheet and can't open the link.
Thanks,
Bill

[etnovass]

a bump for a great thread. i have a 06 x-45 the quit running last weakend. the fuel pump went out. i almost bough the pump from mastercraft but i found this thread frist. i intsall the Airtex E2044 just now and the boat fired up and is running great. im not sure if this pump is going to be enough for the 8.1 so im going to put the boat threw its paces this weekend. the pump cost me $79. thank you all

[NSXBill]

I have a 2003 Xstar with 350 MCX, and had the died while idleing thing happen to me this weekend. My pump has the same 71-333s carter numbers that you have, and my pump MC part number is 155193 according the chart that boofer referenced in another thread (http://207.170.215.108/awweblive/Aww...IX%2099-07.pdf).
Did you use the ACDelco EP356 pump that was mentioned earlier in this thread. So far every one but you has had a different MC part number according to boofers chart than what my boat was calling for. I am just trying to confirm that the EP356 pump works in my fuel module also. Thanks for your help

Can someone pm me the pdf chart referenced above or send a good link. I would love to see what mine is in the reference sheet and can't open the link.
Thanks,
Bill

[rhsprostar]

So the new hose is 5/16"?

Yup 5/16th's......seems to work well....I made sure of a good connection at both ends.

[91ps190]

Here are a couple of pics, old hose then new. I have more if anyone is interested...

So the new hose is 5/16"?

[ntidsl]

Still kicking almost a year later with a 2044 in my 05 197. i have the 2065 in my dash for a spare. takes 10 minutes to change...everytone should carry and extra along with an extra few belt, prop and snorkel mask, and a 12 pack of corona!!! makes everyday more relazing.

[rhsprostar]

Here are a couple of pics, old hose then new. I have more if anyone is interested...

[rhsprostar]

So.......After two years+ with the aftermarket fuel pump running with the regular rubber non in-tank fuel line, I finally got around to switching to the proper Gates intank rated line @$27/ft!

I had a bit of a extended crank issue last fall so I figured that the hose might have deteriorated to the point that it had some pinholes that might be cauing me to lose prime each time I shut the motor off.

Well the verdict is in and the regular line I took out of the module looked almost perfect.
They connection at the top of the hose was a little loose which was probably the cause of my extended crank problem.

I swapped out the line anyhow becuase I was already in there and put on a new fuel filter, again because I was already there.
Now it is possible that the hose has some pinholes but from only a visual inspection there did not seem to be any degredation to the hose.

I snapped a few pics of the swap and hose, but haven't had time to get them on my computer yet. If anyone is interested I can post them later.

[rhsprostar]

I am pulling the boat out of storage in the next week or so. I will be pulling the replacement fuel pump that I installed two years ago to check the fuel line. I installed it with regular rubber fuel line and am curious to see how the line has held up. I have noticed a bit of the long cranking issue that others have experienced, which leads me to beleieve that the hose has degraded to the point that it is leaking slightly.
I will post pics and let everyone know the status....

I will reinstall with the specialized gates intank specific line.
Stay Tuned......

[Wake2004]

FYI, if you use Napa part #730-5613 you get 10' for $15 and it is easier to work with because it is packaged in a coil unlike the purchase buy the foot hose which is straight which is harder to bend without kinking. I tried the cut to length hose ($25/ft) first and failed to get it to bend without kinking. just my thoughts

[nmcjr]

Did you post about your extended cranking problem after fuel pump change? If so,sorry i miss it.My buddy 06 MCX had the same problem and for him too the hose was the cause.
He use NAPA rubber hose and it last for a season before starting going bad.
But it's cheap ...and he's cheap too!

Yes, I did post about an extended crank problem. The part number I listed was for the expensive in tank rated hose, $25/ft, but for the time it takes to do the project all over again, I'd say its worth it to be trouble free. The 12" section they sell you is just the right length.

[André]

OK, using the Napa 5/16" in tank fuel line (P/N H209) was the solution. It tightens over the 1/4" side just fine and solved my extended crank problem. My assesment is that the plastic line is basically a one-time use line, and really hose clamps don't fit well on it anyway. So, I'd consider the Napa hose a mandatory part of the swap.

Did you post about your extended cranking problem after fuel pump change? If so,sorry i miss it.My buddy 06 MCX had the same problem and for him too the hose was the cause.
He use NAPA rubber hose and it last for a season before starting going bad.
But it's cheap ...and he's cheap too!

[nmcjr]

OK, using the Napa 5/16" in tank fuel line (P/N H209) was the solution. It tightens over the 1/4" side just fine and solved my extended crank problem. My assesment is that the plastic line is basically a one-time use line, and really hose clamps don't fit well on it anyway. So, I'd consider the Napa hose a mandatory part of the swap.

[Gert]

Did some more testing and without the circular float disk, the "swirl" pot is filling more easy, as with disk. So, for the time being, it is not going to be reinstalled again.

Since I suspected that the lowest point of the fuel pump-unit is not reaching the bottom of the tank, I add a spacer between the top plate and the bracket. This way, the whole unit is dropping a little. I modified the sleeves too, so the bottom unit is sliding deeper into the tank. I tested it, and now I am sure the lowest point (filter) of the fuel pump-unit is hitting the bottom of the tank.
Also removed the strainer. Now without the strainer, the pump is dropping deeper in the tank, and without the disk, fuel is entering more easy into the pot.
So now, I hope I can get more fuel out of the tank. :-)

If it appears to be that all this is not working, the fuel pump-unit is easy accesable to make things back to stock config.

Anyway some better pics:





And a pic in the pot, the stock bracket is fitting like it is stock:



Soon, we are making some more breather vents in the tank, so it should be possible to fill the tank complete, and shorten the time of actual filling it.