Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

2000 Prostar LTR Cranks Still No Start

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Hello All,

    We finally solved my engine 'No Start' issue, and I want to share with all in hopes to help someone down the road.

    First, I want to point out ( and this was very misleading for me and others ) that the electrical schematics shown in the Distributor Diagnosis charts sect. 5-2 of the ECM wiring, are not correct in the labeling of the position of the Crank Position Sensors; meaning that the wire coloring codes lead to the exact opposite sensor. Colors leading to "A" or Lower should actually be shown as leading to "B" or Upper position, and vice versa for colors leading to "B".

    So, as has been pointed out by other posters, when I finally switched the connectors leading to the CPS's,at the request of my mechanic, to ignore what diagram schematics said, and having a replacement ICM in place, it finally started.
    The 4.94 v on ref. circuit now read the spec value on crank of between 1-2 DC volts as stated in the charts.
    I put my old CPS's back on and they worked; so, the problem was a failure of the ICM only, as one would usually expect, only one part to fail at a time.

    I may have made a Rookie/amateur mistake in trusting the wiring schematics and not just trying it in reverse but after hearing a number of times and especially, I believe from Soder's thread that the CPS harnesses were built incorrectly and are tight to fit the way they are supposed to; and at my mechanic's persistence, I finally tried and there it was ,,,,, Relief !!

    I really appreciate all the advice and time it took each of you to respond in helping out your fellow TT member.

    Cheers, and hope your next outing on the water is a great one !

    Sincerely, Flybird

    Comment


    • #17
      Congratulations ! Persistence pays off.
      2000 Prostar 205V

      Comment


      • #18
        way to stick with it...Congratulations!!!

        Comment


        • #19
          Thanks again, it really is a relief that I have my boat to enjoy again; I plan on making up the lost hours this season!

          Comment


          • #20
            Great work and also great work keeping this thread up-to-date, detailed and organized. Way too many times the OP never "completes the circle" - the real value here on TT is all of the awesome folks that pitch in to solve a problem. When the solution is shared it really benefits everyone and helps keep these great boats on the water, where they belong!

            Comment


            • #21
              Awesome that you finally got this figured out! It must have been incredibly frustrating.

              Comment


              • #22
                Yes, it was definitely getting there, and we figured that it was going to end up being something that was overlooked or simple and not found yet; the confusion caused by the incorrect wiring schematics didn't help at all.

                Another last tip for others; I will be replacing my impeller as all the dry cranking wouldn't have been good for it and I normally replace annually anyway.

                Comment


                • #23
                  flybird, happy to hear that your boat is running after your long journey. I am confused, though, about what initially caused the boat to cut out while idling away from your dock. It couldn't have been the reversed connections, or am I missing something. Thanks.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Hello DanMahx, thanks, the cut out problem was from the failure of the ICM, and then a secondary issue arose when I relied on service manual diagnosis charts which were showing the connections to the CPSs backwards. We replaced the ICM but until we finally switched the connectors, the secondary issue would not allow it to start.

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X