Prop shaft turns when engine is in gear

[RxMC]

I remember using a punch as well. And then someone on this forum was nice enough to send me the special socket to use. Mastercraft couldn't have given us one more inch of space here? I don't think this hull/engine/bilge was designed for the PowerSlot transmission.

Just take your time, it's doable. Just a little frustrating/surprising when you first see it.

[sticknrudder]

Thank you both. This can be done without removing the rudder, correct? Seems like that’s what I heard but the rudder doesn’t seem offset much when I look at it…

[waterlogged882]

Thank you both. This can be done without removing the rudder, correct? Seems like that’s what I heard but the rudder doesn’t seem offset much when I look at it…

Correct.

Worse case is you drop the rudder (read below) out of the hull. No big deal other than time. Each boat has a little different build, as odd as that may seem. If there is an evident (visual) offset, the shaft will come out.

I will say this; while you have the floor out, rotate the fuel cell out onto the floor, pivoting on the axis of the fuel filler hose (no need to remove the fuel call) and rebuild the rudder port with a new seal. Only one place I have found for parts is Ron Tanis' place but his parts are a little off in dimensional tolerance. I had to take a half-round bastard file and file out about 0.030 or so on the radius of the opening to get the rudder back in the new sleeve. Had I to do over, I'd replace only the seal and leave the OEM (new white guide sleeve below) alone. The seal is what is the primary feature in the rudder port. I did this one on an 84 this past summer. No better time but if you are pressed for time, as long as the seal is not leaking, run it. It is not that difficult to get at, at another time. Merely an out-loud thought. Don't let me persuade you into another project.

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Fuel cell on my 93. Same approach on your 85. That filler hose is another pain in the transom. You have to cut it out and replace with a new hose. Saves a ton of time and headache, than trying to remove and reuse the OEM. Been there.
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[sticknrudder]

That seal just corrects a leak, won’t help with play, right? I have some play in the rudder. Not sure if it’s enough to be a problem but it’s probably on the edge.

[waterlogged882]

That seal just corrects a leak, won’t help with play, right? I have some play in the rudder. Not sure if it’s enough to be a problem but it’s probably on the edge.

Correct.

The part I spoke of is a little off (not sure why...I even called him about it) thus I error on the safer side, but it will work with a slight tweak. No big deal.

You are spot on.

A small bit of rudder play is normal but you will have to be the judge of that.

The tiller arm on the rudder stem is bolted on with nut and washer. Once the nut is off, you still have to thread the bolt out. Just an FYI.

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[sticknrudder]

Perfect, thank you!

[d2jp]

Thread like this make me wish TeamTalk had a "vintage" or some other named section appropriate for those of us using and working on direct drive boats up through the mid-late 90s (all analog, no ECU) This thread could be pinned as it is a very concise Q@A and explantion of a common "how to" on classic direct drive boats.

[sticknrudder]

Thread like this make me wish TeamTalk had a "vintage" or some other named section appropriate for those of us using and working on direct drive boats up through the mid-late 90s (all analog, no ECU) This thread could be pinned as it is a very concise Q@A and explantion of a common "how to" on classic direct drive boats.

Great idea, I agree. waterlogged882 has been immensely helpful with his vast knowledge of these boats.

[sticknrudder]

I haven't worked on the boat much this week because I was waiting for some tools and helping my parents with an electrical/plumbing project.

I purchased a stubby 1-1/8" impact socket from Capri tools on Amazon for about $10. I know I could've just cut a socket in half and welded a piece of flat stock to it to make a custom tool to remove the coupler nut in the tight 1-1/2" space between the transmission and the prop shaft, but I didn't really want to hassle with cutting a socket in half if I could avoid it. The stubby socket was perfect. I was able to put it halfway on the nut then slipped a 1/2" socket head onto it then used a 3/4" wrench to do the turning. Came off like a charm. Holding the nose of a pair of angled needle nose pliers in the bolt holes on the coupler made for a nice "coupler removal tool" to hold it in place while turning the castle nut with the wrench.



Another tool I had been waiting on was a prop puller off eBay. For $42 shipped its a nice puller and worked great.



The next step is to press the coupler off the shaft. Hopefully, it's not too stuck. Also appears that I will have to remove the rudder, it doesn't look like the prop shaft will clear at all.

[sticknrudder]

I tried pressing the coupler off with a socket in between the coupler and the transmission flange and have been unsuccessful so far. This was my set up:



I got the bolts tightened as tight as I could with a 3/8" socket and wrench. No movement. Any ideas? Should I try heat?

Here's a photo with the bolts all the way tight.

[sticknrudder]

Got it! Finally, after the 4th or 5th attempt, I had tension on it from the homemade puller and gave it one whack with a rubber mallet and it broke free. Only issue is I used the nut at one point backed part way off. Ultimately I got it off using a socket instead. I am wondering if I somehow damaged the nut or the threads on the shaft because now it doesn't thread on easily. I'll have to figure that out. The rudder will have to come out so that'll be the next step.

[waterlogged882]

That looks like it is a stainless nut. Threads on stainless (and brass in particular) will stretch a little when de-tensioning.

The nut is secondary for attaching. The key-way and press setup is the primary attachment method.

The nut should not have had much (if any) tension (torque) on it (depending on how it was last installed) but there is a thought that the threads may have stretched a little. Ny-lok nuts are notorious for this. I wouldn't worry too much. Maybe a new nut but the dang things are not cheap. I'd roll it back on there to the point of contact. Then roll it back a little until the slots in the nut line up with the hole, insert the cotter key and move on. The nut typically does not see torque unless you get a very close alignment of slot and hole, then snug it forward (clockwise). Your call there.

Stainless is a somewhat soft material. I use the brass prop nut on both ends of the shaft. McMaster-Carr has these (brass and stainless) a little less expensive. Done deal.

If you have a tap and a die for that particular size, spin it on and realign / clean the threads...move on.

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[sticknrudder]

Excellent. Thank you.

I am currently trying to remove the rudder. I have the tiller arm removed but rudder won’t drop…looks like there’s a 1” long key in the rudder shaft that I’m guessing has to come out first?

[waterlogged882]

Excellent. Thank you.

I am currently trying to remove the rudder. I have the tiller arm removed but rudder won’t drop…looks like there’s a 1” long key in the rudder shaft that I’m guessing has to come out first?

There is a key-way. Tap the rudder out. Hammer and a bigger hammer if necessary. The key will find a home of its own as you work.

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[sticknrudder]

Once I removed the key it slid out just beautifully.