1993 Prostar 205 - stuck engine lifter causing ticking noise?

[shocker47]

There are multiple things that can be an issue. Internet diagnosis is tough. Above, I have commented to a point of certainty without being there hands-on and head scratching.

The engine is trying to run and you have fuel, air, and spark but one of the three is being constrained or interrupted. I am presuming you have the timing at 10* BTDC (as you stated).

Lack of fuel can be a float stuck in the primary side fuel bowl, restricting fuel supply from a partially closed needle valve in the primary bowl.

Lack of air can be the idle air screws not set properly (see above).

Lack of spark can be the coil, rotor, cap, or even a broken advanced timing spring in the bottom of the distributor. I see that you have new cap, rotor, and plugs.

Low voltage is not ideal but you are using fully charged batteries for the most part.

Restricted fuel filter and fuel cell vent hose plugged up on either one.

Your fuel pump should be OK if it is delivering fuel to the carburetor. But I have seen weak pumps make for hard starts.

Is the electric choke operating properly (fully open after about 60 seconds of ignition key on and a warm engine)? With the engine cold, remove the flame arrestor, turn the ignition switch to the run position, and wait 60 - 90 seconds to confirm the choke plate is fully opening. If so, it's good. I have seen chokes not wired for voltage, as well as reassembly of a choke that missed the internal pin where the choke coil has to engage. I have seen them installed upside down.

A vacuum leak at the base of the carburetor or spacer plate can cause rough running. An easy test for leaks.

Truly I am guessing here with multiple possibilities and food for thought. Maybe you answered some of the questions I had above but I did not go back and verify your facts, so please forgive me if you previously answered some questions. I do have decent reading comprehension... :-)

Discuss and your thoughts. Anyone?

.

Ok, so some progress. I reset the timing by doing TDC on the compression stroke, set the rotor to spark plug #1 and she fired right up. I set timing to 10 degrees idle.

Now I have a new issue with the carb. There’s what sounds like an air leak right around the carb base / diaphragm actuator. I had a new spare diaphragm and power valve, so I replaced both as well as a new carb intake gasket and still hear air sucking in pretty loud, which is causing a rough idle. Anything else around that area that would cause a loud air sucking noise? I plan to pull the carb off tomorrow and take a better look. I had like 5 back fires through the carb when the timing was off, so thinking maybe I blew a gasket in the carb somewhere?

I rebuilt the 4010 a few months ago due to the carb having idle issues. I took it apart, cleaned it good and used all new gaskets and the boat ran like a top at the time.

[waterlogged882]

Ok, so some progress. I reset the timing by doing TDC on the compression stroke, set the rotor to spark plug #1 and she fired right up. I set timing to 10 degrees idle.

Now I have a new issue with the carb. There’s what sounds like an air leak right around the carb base / diaphragm actuator. I had a new spare diaphragm and power valve, so I replaced both as well as a new carb intake gasket and still hear air sucking in pretty loud, which is causing a rough idle. Anything else around that area that would cause a loud air sucking noise? I plan to pull the carb off tomorrow and take a better look. I had like 5 back fires through the carb when the timing was off, so thinking maybe I blew a gasket in the carb somewhere?

I rebuilt the 4010 a few months ago due to the carb having idle issues. I took it apart, cleaned it good and used all new gaskets and the boat ran like a top at the time.

You are getting there, narrowing down variables.

To test for a vacuum leak without a gauge, start the engine, run the throttle to ~1000 RPM. In increments around the perimeter (to isolate and identify) spray a shot of starting fluid at the base of the carburetor (going all around) and listen for the RPM to increase. If so, there's a leak. Same on the spacer plate sitting on top if the intake manifold (if applicable).

To your approach, I'd make sure you have good gasket seals at the base of the carburetor as well as the base of the spacer plate. Two gaskets.

I doubt a backfire has created an issue with a gasket but never say never. Depending on the style of the carburetor (I realize it is a 4010) and the year make, a power valve could be impacted by a backfire. In 1992 and forward, Holley put a bypass feature on a backfire through the power valve, and you put in a new part.

Tweak the idle air screws again.

Is the suction sound without the flame arrestor on the carburetor?

Patience.

.

[93Prostar190]

On my 5.7 Chevy when doing the heads, you need properly adjust valve lash, did you do that?

[shocker47]

On my 5.7 Chevy when doing the heads, you need properly adjust valve lash, did you do that?

I don’t think the ford 351w valves are adjustable. They use flat tappet cams and for the rockers I just torqued each bolt down to about 22 ft. Lbs

[shocker47]

Got the boat running again. Took off the carb and spacer plate and ran them on a flat surface with some sandpaper to true up the mating surfaces and that fixed the vacuum leak issue. Also used a new gasket.

flushed the oil out 2 times, but still looks like I’m getting water in the oil. Ran the boat each time for about 15 minutes in the driveway revving up to 2-3k for a bit using the bucket method. Boat runs great which is the odd part. You wouldn’t think there’s any issues.

I’m thinking to just winterize it and think about what to do in the spring. I was reading that the timing cover / water pump gasket could also fail and let water into the crank case.

[88 PS190]

I would pressure test your cooling system. Not an uncommon test to do on a car you use an air pump and pressurize the radiator. To do this to a boat you need to adapt your method.

Pull exhaust hoses off the manifolds and pick up a couple of these from the hardware store and cap the exhaust manifolds



You'll also need a provision to pressurize the easiest way is just to buy a schrader valve to NPT fitting and a plumbing fitting to the 1.25" rubber hose for from the raw water pump.



Then you just pump it up to maybe 15 pounds and watch to see if it leaks down. If its leaking down start listening for hissing around the engine.