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96 Ps Lt1, New Boat Has Been A Nightmare Please Help

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  • 96 Ps Lt1, New Boat Has Been A Nightmare Please Help

    Let me start off and say hello and I am glad to be on here and I appreciate everyone's advice. So I bought my 1996 205 LT1 last year 2016 at the end of the summer. When I test drove the boat it ran absolutely great. I purchased it for 12,500 in hopes of getting a great boat that I that would be a toy that works. And that I would only have to do the normal maintenance to, NOT rebuild.
    So first day on the lake (Lake Lanier, Ga) Dropped it in the water turn the key,,, dead battery. The previous owner left the ignition on. Great so I try to jump start it doesn't work, I go buy a new battery try again. Cranks right up. HURRYAY! My wife and my buddy hop on and we are off. Nothin but smiles for Five minutes then the engine starts to studder, cough, drops rpm and squealing and knocking bad. We limp back to the boat ramp. We notice that the oil press goes all the way up as soon as you turn the ign in the on position before we ran it for the first time. Alright Replaced the oil sender with new, same result, new gauge same result later we found out it wrong in the wrong place. Over the next few days we start going thru this thing. Check voltage 0 Replaced alternator with new. Same result. We read somewhere probably here that you could fry the comp by trying to jump start a boat. ( AS I'M SURE YOU ALL CAN GUESS THE PREVIOUS OWNER KNOWS NOTHING AND HAS NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE BOAT) I sent the comp out to a guy in CALI OBD2 diagnostics I believe. He checked the comp=GOOD. I checked spark it checked good. Also replace the ECT in the water Recirculating pump with a new one.
    Still doesn't run right still in what I believe is limp mode. Fuel Pressure checked good + new fuel filter.
    Manually checked the oil Pressure checked BAD!!!!! 6PSI So out the engine goes!!
    Spun,,, 1 main bearing and broke a main cap (the big one)
    spun 3 rod bearings
    spun Cam bearings
    So I found new block, new crank, and a new cam
    Alright so I found Carolina Machine engine and they said they were able to rebuild my engine cheaper than I could myself. Terrible experience took them 4 months and was promised 3 weeks. Anyways.

    I received my long block freshly rebuilt, (NEW EVERYTHING, PISTONS, PISTON RINGS, RODS, LIFTERS, PUSH RODS, TIMING SET, COMPUTER BALANCED) put it all back together. found out the oil pressure sensor was in the water jacket there for inop got the figured out good oil press now. STILL WON'T RUN RIGHT ITS IN what I believe LIMP MODE won't go over 2100rpm!!!! I NEED HELP!!!! I Have the MEFI2 scanner from OBD2 Dianostics and the coolant temp says that says that is not over heating. The MAX I have seen is 150.4 btw I also have new thermostats 143/160 in the correct position and the plus the gibbson service bulletin completed. I need charts to check all the sensors also.
    THANKS AGAIN

  • #2
    There is a temp switch in addition to the other temp sending units, you might want to test it. As I recall there are three temp sensors: the one for the gauge, the one for the ECM and the switch.

    As I recall, the switch will be on the starboard side of the engine in the head. It will be like the top one listed here: http://www.skidim.com/Senders_Switch...ucts/1041/0/4/
    Last edited by Table Rocker; 07-12-2017, 02:48 PM.
    '96 ProStar 205 SD LT-1

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for the response.

      I have grounded this wire from the trigger ect and the light on the dash does not come on. I'm going to check the wiring and bulb to it next. Do you have a chart or know the resistance value to check the sender itself? Thanks again

      Comment


      • #4
        I do not know how to test that switch. I assume it is either open or closed, but I do not know if it is open when cool and closed when hot or vice versa.
        '96 ProStar 205 SD LT-1

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by ABIELX205LT1 View Post
          Let me start off and say hello and I am glad to be on here and I appreciate everyone's advice. So I bought my 1996 205 LT1 last year 2016 at the end of the summer. When I test drove the boat it ran absolutely great. I purchased it for 12,500 in hopes of getting a great boat that I that would be a toy that works. And that I would only have to do the normal maintenance to, NOT rebuild.
          So first day on the lake (Lake Lanier, Ga) Dropped it in the water turn the key,,, dead battery. The previous owner left the ignition on. Great so I try to jump start it doesn't work, I go buy a new battery try again. Cranks right up. HURRYAY! My wife and my buddy hop on and we are off. Nothin but smiles for Five minutes then the engine starts to studder, cough, drops rpm and squealing and knocking bad. We limp back to the boat ramp. We notice that the oil press goes all the way up as soon as you turn the ign in the on position before we ran it for the first time. Alright Replaced the oil sender with new, same result, new gauge same result later we found out it wrong in the wrong place. Over the next few days we start going thru this thing. Check voltage 0 Replaced alternator with new. Same result. We read somewhere probably here that you could fry the comp by trying to jump start a boat. ( AS I'M SURE YOU ALL CAN GUESS THE PREVIOUS OWNER KNOWS NOTHING AND HAS NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE BOAT) I sent the comp out to a guy in CALI OBD2 diagnostics I believe. He checked the comp=GOOD. I checked spark it checked good. Also replace the ECT in the water Recirculating pump with a new one.
          Still doesn't run right still in what I believe is limp mode. Fuel Pressure checked good + new fuel filter.
          Manually checked the oil Pressure checked BAD!!!!! 6PSI So out the engine goes!!
          Spun,,, 1 main bearing and broke a main cap (the big one)
          spun 3 rod bearings
          spun Cam bearings
          So I found new block, new crank, and a new cam
          Alright so I found Carolina Machine engine and they said they were able to rebuild my engine cheaper than I could myself. Terrible experience took them 4 months and was promised 3 weeks. Anyways.

          I received my long block freshly rebuilt, (NEW EVERYTHING, PISTONS, PISTON RINGS, RODS, LIFTERS, PUSH RODS, TIMING SET, COMPUTER BALANCED) put it all back together. found out the oil pressure sensor was in the water jacket there for inop got the figured out good oil press now. STILL WON'T RUN RIGHT ITS IN what I believe LIMP MODE won't go over 2100rpm!!!! I NEED HELP!!!! I Have the MEFI2 scanner from OBD2 Dianostics and the coolant temp says that says that is not over heating. The MAX I have seen is 150.4 btw I also have new thermostats 143/160 in the correct position and the plus the gibbson service bulletin completed. I need charts to check all the sensors also.
          THANKS AGAIN
          You don't have MEFI2, you have MEFI I.

          Was the oil pressure sender next to the oil filter?

          Comment


          • #6
            Check the basic things and make sure all of your wires are back in their correct spots, including plug leads as well as the timing pickups on the crank. Also make sure the builder put your crank pickup back on the front as mine left it off and I had to go back to get it. Fuel pressure check would be the next step as well as verifying spark. These systems were based off OBDI, 1992 Corvette, and there is not a lot of feedback you're going to get from the computer.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by JimN View Post
              You don't have MEFI2, you have MEFI I.

              Was the oil pressure sender next to the oil filter?
              96 has MEFI-1?

              Check the ignition module and coil pack for cracks / corrosion - the coil pack and ignition module can cause that motor to have real strange fits.

              any codes from the ecu? you can also have a bad ECT - 2 pole sensor - wired to ECU.

              info here on the MEFI - https://www.dropbox.com/sh/o91j4vsfr...%20Manual?dl=0

              get yourself a clymer manual for the block - very useful
              sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by JimN View Post
                You don't have MEFI2, you have MEFI I.

                Was the oil pressure sender next to the oil filter?
                The previous owner put the oil pressure sender in the water jacket on the port side of the block in the same location of the knock sensor on the starboard side. I installed it in the port above the oil filter housing. I'll check when get home to see if I have mefi1 or 2 but I'm pretty sure it's 2.

                THANK YOU ALL!!!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by mikeg205 View Post
                  96 has MEFI-1?

                  Check the ignition module and coil pack for cracks / corrosion - the coil pack and ignition module can cause that motor to have real strange fits.

                  any codes from the ecu? you can also have a bad ECT - 2 pole sensor - wired to ECU.

                  info here on the MEFI - https://www.dropbox.com/sh/o91j4vsfr...%20Manual?dl=0

                  get yourself a clymer manual for the block - very useful
                  It was all based off the OBD1 through the life of the LT1. Was not until later system when they started using OBD2 based EFI systems. 96 was the first year though that autos switched from 1 to 2.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by mikeg205 View Post
                    96 has MEFI-1?

                    Check the ignition module and coil pack for cracks / corrosion - the coil pack and ignition module can cause that motor to have real strange fits.

                    any codes from the ecu? you can also have a bad ECT - 2 pole sensor - wired to ECU.

                    info here on the MEFI - https://www.dropbox.com/sh/o91j4vsfr...%20Manual?dl=0

                    get yourself a clymer manual for the block - very useful
                    I have inspected the ICM and all the coil pack visually and I have also checked the spark at all the plug wires with a spark tester. All Checked good (before the overhauled engine was installed). BTW the engine will rev up while its in neutral but not in gear. I don't want to rev too much because its basically a new engine and I don't want to damage anything not being able to follow the proper break-in Procedure. Also all components and Parts were kept inside, organized and cool a dry area and cleaned before reinstall. ALSO it doesn't want to idle currently, post overhaul. I do have the clymer manual for the boat but there doesn't seem to have very much information about the LT1.
                    THANK YOU GUYS!!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Fuel press was good before the engine overhaul
                      and the ECT (2pin) located in the water recir pump is new and reading correctly.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Your description of how it was running before replacing the engine sounds similar to my situation that I described in a thread last year. Mine was fuel related. Marina drained the fuel system, cleaned the injectors, and replaced the fuel pump and problem was solved. I know you said you had the proper fuel pressure. And prior to having the problem, I never had an issue, so your previous owner may not be lying.
                        Prior boats - (3) X14's, (3) Prostars, and a Tristar.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ABIELX205LT1 View Post
                          I have inspected the ICM and all the coil pack visually and I have also checked the spark at all the plug wires with a spark tester. All Checked good (before the overhauled engine was installed). BTW the engine will rev up while its in neutral but not in gear. I don't want to rev too much because its basically a new engine and I don't want to damage anything not being able to follow the proper break-in Procedure. Also all components and Parts were kept inside, organized and cool a dry area and cleaned before reinstall. ALSO it doesn't want to idle currently, post overhaul. I do have the clymer manual for the boat but there doesn't seem to have very much information about the LT1.
                          THANK YOU GUYS!!
                          LT1 not much different from TBI - ok its a different... the link I posted has the LT-1 differences..

                          if it does not want to idle - disconnect the TPS and see if it idles with it disconnected.. IAC may also may not have been installed with correct procedure. Unplugged TPS should cause idle to be a bit high.

                          are all injectors firing ok? since they were sitting for 4 months
                          sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Whats up peoples. I did some more troubleshooting yesterday. I found that the spark advance is getting pulled out @32 and drops to 8. I tried swapping the coil pack icm assy completely and found no change. I found that my Check engine light is hooked up too nothing. I also found that overheat switch on the starburt side of the block is is open until about 300 degrees F. The fuel pressure is good as well. What pulls Spark out? crank positioning sensors? Any of you guys want to come out and give me a hand I'm located at Lake Lanier in Ga?? Anyways thank you all.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              check the connections to the crank sensors - and how they look - you can replace them with these.. here.

                              Too bad you're in the southeast - I know a real good mechanic in Wisconsin - Lake Wisconsin Ski Boats.. you may want to contact him he might know someone good in your area.

                              Crank position sensor for lt1/ltr
                              Made by sikeco china part number CSS312 order on aliexpress.com
                              LADA Crankshaft Sensor 2112-3847010-04

                              Or it might be time to invest in a rinda product.
                              sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

                              Comment

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