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LTR 330 won't start

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  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    Messed with it in the dark a bit when I got home. The lower of the two sensor was definitely rubbing on the magneto wheel, while the upper sensor had about an 1/8" gap. I loosened the bracket bolts and got the gap of the lower sensor to about the width of a business card, while the upper sensor is about 2-3 times wider. The bracket seems to only adjust in a circular manner, so the lower sensor would always hit if the upper sensor gap was a business card thick.

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  • Cumminscj
    replied
    I can't remember the exact number, but a business card works well for gapping them. At this point I wouldn't turn it over again until they are properly gapped. They are magnetic and more than likely they are rubbing the wheel.

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  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    Obviously my battery is low and needs to be charged, but anybody recognize this sound/behavior? It is definitely making a weird sound I haven't heard before. Could it be one of the crank sensors rubbing on the magneto wheel? It is dark at the boat ramp but I didn't think the sensors were touching when I installed them.

    For what it's worth the first time I tried it started and ran really high RPM's for idle, did this for about 15 seconds before sputtering and dying.
    Attached Files

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  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    I spoke too soon. Got to the lake and it started but sputtered and died every time. What is the gap supposed to be? I had to unbolt the bracket to press the sensors out.
    Last edited by Jcbrdnbrg88; 07-06-2017, 09:59 PM. Reason: Spelling

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  • Cumminscj
    replied
    Make sure you checked the gap on the crank sensors after installation, especially of you unbolted the entire bracket from the block.

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  • André
    replied
    Originally posted by Jcbrdnbrg88 View Post
    Got the new crank sensors in the mail today and got them installed. Got spark on crank and fired it up in the driveway. Almost dark but headed to the lake for a run, finally after nearly two months of no skiing. Thanks for everyone's help on this!
    Congrats! Perseverance pays off!

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  • mtajpa
    replied
    Great to hear. Have fun.

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  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    Got the new crank sensors in the mail today and got them installed. Got spark on crank and fired it up in the driveway. Almost dark but headed to the lake for a run, finally after nearly two months of no skiing. Thanks for everyone's help on this!

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  • Atver300
    replied
    Originally posted by Jcbrdnbrg88 View Post
    I ordered two crank sensors last night off eBay, hopefully get them next week. Gotta figure out how to press them out of the bracket.
    Mine didn't have to be pressed out. Just removed the bolt and pulled them out.

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  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    I ordered two crank sensors last night off eBay, hopefully get them next week. Gotta figure out how to press them out of the bracket.

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  • mtajpa
    replied
    Basically a 12volt light bulb. Connect the clip to the negative side of the battery or to a good ground point and touch the probe to the points mentioned as the are the positive side of the battery and the light bulb will light. This tells you you have voltage present. It can also be connected to the positive side of battery to look for a ground/neg voltage.

    The connections mentioned can be checked at the connector ends of the device just disconnect touch the probe to the terminal. Don't pierce the insulation or you will allow moisture to enter entire the conductor over time.

    Available at almost any auto parts store. This is a basic tool for trouble shooting any 12volt system.
    Attached Files

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  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    Dumb questions: What do you mean by test light? Also how to I check voltage inline while cranking without cutting the wire?

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  • mtajpa
    replied
    Using a test light check for voltage with the key on and when cranking using the following drawings.

    both sides of the fuses first. test light should light on both sides of fuse.

    circuit/wire 902 on the ICM and ECM should = +12v test light should light

    circuit/wire 440 at the ECM should = +12v test light should light

    circuit/wires 481,439 at the injectors and the ECM = +12v test light should light

    then check for good grounds by connecting test light to battery positive
    and prob at circuit/wire 150 at ECM.

    If you have voltages at these points it will narrow down problem.
    Also check/clean ANY and ALL ground connections. There are several.

    Also some have had TACH issues causing ecm to short out. Try disconnecting circuit/wire
    121 and try to start.

    Hope this will help you in solving your problem.
    Attached Files

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  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    Just pulled all 3 of the relays by the ecm, measured the continuity and getting 73-74 ohms.

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  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    CruisinGA - from what I've read the versions for the marine engines are different then the car ones. Can you send me the links to the ones you ordered?

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