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LTR 330 won't start

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  • #46
    Took the ignition module to auto zone. Tested it 6 times and checked out okay. It has to be the cam/crank sensors or the three relays back by the ecm? Any way to test either of these before throwing parts at them? I read on a post from JimN: "If you ever need to check this type of relay, use a multi-meter and set it to comtinuity- Measure across tabs 85 and 86- you should see resistance in the area of 80 Ohms. If it's a little more, it doesn't matter as long as the relay latches when voltage is applied to these terminals. If it's open or shows little/no resistance, replace the relay."

    Any way to test the crank or cam sensors before replacing them?

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    • #47
      you could always swap those relays around with one another and see if it changes anything. Some quick google searching will show you exactly how they should operate and can easily be tested with a 12volt source and a multimeter.

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      • #48
        I have not heard of a method to test the crank sensors before replacing them. They are available off ebay for quick shipping out of US or from China for much cheaper but longer delivery.
        I just ordered a couple sets to have just in case last week but they have not arrived yet.
        Bailey
        '02 X-9
        Lake Blue Ridge

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        • #49
          CruisinGA - from what I've read the versions for the marine engines are different then the car ones. Can you send me the links to the ones you ordered?

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          • #50
            Just pulled all 3 of the relays by the ecm, measured the continuity and getting 73-74 ohms.

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            • #51
              Using a test light check for voltage with the key on and when cranking using the following drawings.

              both sides of the fuses first. test light should light on both sides of fuse.

              circuit/wire 902 on the ICM and ECM should = +12v test light should light

              circuit/wire 440 at the ECM should = +12v test light should light

              circuit/wires 481,439 at the injectors and the ECM = +12v test light should light

              then check for good grounds by connecting test light to battery positive
              and prob at circuit/wire 150 at ECM.

              If you have voltages at these points it will narrow down problem.
              Also check/clean ANY and ALL ground connections. There are several.

              Also some have had TACH issues causing ecm to short out. Try disconnecting circuit/wire
              121 and try to start.

              Hope this will help you in solving your problem.
              Attached Files
              99 MariStar 230 Sport LTR 330

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              • #52
                Dumb questions: What do you mean by test light? Also how to I check voltage inline while cranking without cutting the wire?

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                • #53
                  Basically a 12volt light bulb. Connect the clip to the negative side of the battery or to a good ground point and touch the probe to the points mentioned as the are the positive side of the battery and the light bulb will light. This tells you you have voltage present. It can also be connected to the positive side of battery to look for a ground/neg voltage.

                  The connections mentioned can be checked at the connector ends of the device just disconnect touch the probe to the terminal. Don't pierce the insulation or you will allow moisture to enter entire the conductor over time.

                  Available at almost any auto parts store. This is a basic tool for trouble shooting any 12volt system.
                  Attached Files
                  99 MariStar 230 Sport LTR 330

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                  • #54
                    I ordered two crank sensors last night off eBay, hopefully get them next week. Gotta figure out how to press them out of the bracket.

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                    • #55
                      Originally posted by Jcbrdnbrg88 View Post
                      I ordered two crank sensors last night off eBay, hopefully get them next week. Gotta figure out how to press them out of the bracket.
                      Mine didn't have to be pressed out. Just removed the bolt and pulled them out.

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                      • #56
                        Got the new crank sensors in the mail today and got them installed. Got spark on crank and fired it up in the driveway. Almost dark but headed to the lake for a run, finally after nearly two months of no skiing. Thanks for everyone's help on this!

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                        • #57
                          Great to hear. Have fun.
                          99 MariStar 230 Sport LTR 330

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                          • #58
                            Originally posted by Jcbrdnbrg88 View Post
                            Got the new crank sensors in the mail today and got them installed. Got spark on crank and fired it up in the driveway. Almost dark but headed to the lake for a run, finally after nearly two months of no skiing. Thanks for everyone's help on this!
                            Congrats! Perseverance pays off!
                            Keep skiing!!!

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                            • #59
                              Make sure you checked the gap on the crank sensors after installation, especially of you unbolted the entire bracket from the block.
                              1986 Marlin Magnum Skiier-sold
                              1999 Maristar 210VRS-weekend ride
                              1996 205 with LT1 cracked block-stitched back together

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                              • #60
                                I spoke too soon. Got to the lake and it started but sputtered and died every time. What is the gap supposed to be? I had to unbolt the bracket to press the sensors out.
                                Last edited by Jcbrdnbrg88; 07-06-2017, 09:59 PM. Reason: Spelling

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