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LTR 330 won't start

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  • CruisinGA
    replied
    I have not heard of a method to test the crank sensors before replacing them. They are available off ebay for quick shipping out of US or from China for much cheaper but longer delivery.
    I just ordered a couple sets to have just in case last week but they have not arrived yet.

    Leave a comment:


  • NatesGr8
    replied
    you could always swap those relays around with one another and see if it changes anything. Some quick google searching will show you exactly how they should operate and can easily be tested with a 12volt source and a multimeter.

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  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    Took the ignition module to auto zone. Tested it 6 times and checked out okay. It has to be the cam/crank sensors or the three relays back by the ecm? Any way to test either of these before throwing parts at them? I read on a post from JimN: "If you ever need to check this type of relay, use a multi-meter and set it to comtinuity- Measure across tabs 85 and 86- you should see resistance in the area of 80 Ohms. If it's a little more, it doesn't matter as long as the relay latches when voltage is applied to these terminals. If it's open or shows little/no resistance, replace the relay."

    Any way to test the crank or cam sensors before replacing them?

    Leave a comment:


  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    I pulled the ignition module off tonight and will take it to advanced auto parts for testing tomorrow.

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  • Cumminscj
    replied
    Been out of town, but from what I gather he fuel pump is priming the system but you don't have spark. Call your local parts store and see if they can check an ignition module for a GM. Like a 98 Cadillac. They should be able to verify the condition of the ignition module. If it's bad you know what to buy. Of it's good then one of the crankshaft position sensors has gone bad. If you replace them make sure you check the gap between the sensor and the crank. If you only buy one just replace one and see if it will start. If it won't start replace the other one with the sensor you just took out.

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  • bcd
    replied
    It came threaded. I just went to the store and told the guy there to get me from 1 1/4 inch beaded end to garden hose connection. He did it in those 3 fittings.

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  • paintpollz
    replied
    Originally posted by bcd View Post
    Here's a picture of my fittings

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    ! Sweet jesus! No more messy bucket of water!

    Question regarding the middle PVC piece. Does that fit the garden hose attachment off of the shelf or did you have to thread that?

    Great idea, so over the whole bucket method.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    Based on what I have found, it must be one of:
    -ignition module (https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk...t=70214&page=3)
    -one of the 3 relays by the ecm (https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk...ad.php?t=66772)
    -bad crank position sensor
    Not sure how to troubleshoot any of these issues, other than using and ohm meter to check the resistance on the relays.

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by Jcbrdnbrg88 View Post
    I used a fuse tester for all of the three little blue 15 amp fuses and all checked out. So the red 50 amp push button fuse is okay then?
    I would say yes, but the test would be to check for a closed (reset by the button) circuit across the breaker.

    Once it resets, it should close and carry the load.

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    I used a fuse tester for all of the three little blue 15 amp fuses and all checked out. So the red 50 amp push button fuse is okay then?

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by Jcbrdnbrg88 View Post
    I found this 50 amp red push button fuse at the back of the engine near the ecm. It seems to be popped out and won't push back in, but seems more spring loaded than a normal fuse. Any way to test it?
    Those buttons are like that for all the ones I have seen. Makes one think, quite to your point....nothing is happening. A push will reset the breaker with no further indication of a reset.

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • Table Rocker
    replied

    Is that middle fuse okay? It is hard to tell in the pic, but it might be burnt on the left side.

    Since you have power to things other than the starter, your safety lanyard is okay.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    I found this 50 amp red push button fuse at the back of the engine near the ecm. It seems to be popped out and won't push back in, but seems more spring loaded than a normal fuse. Any way to test it?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk...ad.php?t=66772

    Came across that thread and nearly same not and problem, only I don't have an x star that I can pull relays from.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    I haven't tried bypassing the kill switch yet. Is there an easy way to get behind it without tearing off the whole side panel? The check engine light is on when I have my lanyard hooked up, and the light turns off when I pull the lanyard off.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

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