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LTR 330 won't start

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  • paintpollz
    replied
    Originally posted by petemay121 View Post
    There are 3 connectors under there right on top of the fuel pump.
    Yes, this was mentioned in the beginning of the thread, OP did address this.

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  • petemay121
    replied
    I had the same problem early this year. Found the issue was the connections under the back cover where we all put our skis. There are 3 connectors under there right on top of the fuel pump. There was no sign what so ever of corrosion, but I cleaned them anyways. I cleaned them with some electrical spray, I use DeixIT and my LTR330 has fired up first time every time all this year. Hope this helps!

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  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    That is a good question. I did not know anything about the IAC before they called to tell me about it. After searching through this forum I saw some posts about them fouling up and that they need cleaned every now and again. At first he told me the IAC was sending bad signals to the engine computer, but after hearing that the spark plugs were fouled, maybe the IAC wasn't bad but just fouled.

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  • paintpollz
    replied
    thanks for following up on the post.

    How did they come to the conclusion that the IAC was bad? Did they say that was a regular item to check, and how do you know if it is good or bad?

    What I get from this is check the fuel pressure, fuel pump, IAC, and CPS for any symptoms like yours. I know how to get the others at this point, just not the IAC.

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  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    For anyone that might be having the same issues with their boat, I had to have additional work done. I was able to run the boat twice on the lake before it died again, and I couldn't figure it out. I took it back to the original service shop where it sat for three more weeks, only to have them tell me it was likely a loose electrical wire, but ultimately they couldn't figure it out and I'd have to pay them for their time.

    I took it to a different shop about an hour away. Despite being busy with winterizing boats they called me less than a week later to tell me that the IAC (idle air control) motor was bad. It was almost $400 for them to order the part from indmar which they did. They replaced the IAC and spark plugs at the tune of $750, but noticed that the engine temp was not heating up. They checked the thermostat and it was stuck wide open, so the cylinders were being fed too much fuel which was fouling the spark plugs. $900 later I have a new IAC, spark plugs, and thermostat. After doing some research it seems like all three of these are fairly common, and the parts are easy to source from local auto parts stores for a fraction of the cost. Just thought I'd update this thread for anyone that might have the same issues as I was having. Nothing like having your boat finally ready to run in October in Iowa.

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  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    Took it to the lake finally last night and ran it for a couple hours without any issues. Sucks to have it in running condition August 1st, but still some time yet this year to use it. Thanks for everyone's help!
    Attached Files

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  • paintpollz
    replied
    Originally posted by Jcbrdnbrg88 View Post
    I took it to the lake last night. Started right up and left it running on the trailer for about 20 minutes with no issues. Seems like replacing the crank sensors fixed my original problem, but I suspect I still have an issue with a bad or loose electrical connection somewhere.
    hmmm ok. you didn't drive it though? Curious to see if it is running rough under load.

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  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    I took it to the lake last night. Started right up and left it running on the trailer for about 20 minutes with no issues. Seems like replacing the crank sensors fixed my original problem, but I suspect I still have an issue with a bad or loose electrical connection somewhere.

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  • paintpollz
    replied
    bump. OP, whats the deal here.....

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  • mtajpa
    replied
    I actually removed the black connector and spliced the gray and black of the pump connector directly to the wiring loom. The black connector would get hot and the pump would shut off. Try using a pic pin in the female ends of the pump connector to tweek the parts to make a better connection if you can't find a connector.

    You should also get a 5 gallon bucket and a piece of 1 1/4 inch hose so you can test this on the trailer. It will save you a ton of time. If it starts just keep the hose running in the bucket.

    http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=72277 post #10
    Attached Files

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  • Cumminscj
    replied
    In your picture the one on the left and the one going into the fuel pump are the two you want to pay attention to. Take a pick or something skinny and bend the tabs so that you have great contact between the female and male. You could have a bad ground as well where it touches the block, but I would start with the connectors since you plugged and unplugged them and the boat fired up
    Last edited by Cumminscj; 08-02-2017, 02:32 PM. Reason: Spelling

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  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    Of course it starts in my driveway. I was going to check fuel pressure then try and replace the pigtail connector to the fuel pump. The pigtail connector I got at autozone is too big and not the correct one anyways. I checked the three connectors shown in the picture and all seemed to be okay as far as not being corroded or having disconnected wires/pins. Difficult to see inside the connectors though. Didn't leave the engine running long since it wasn't hooked up to water, but seemed to be idling a bit rough.
    Attached Files

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  • Cumminscj
    replied
    Here is the two I had problems with. One plugged into the module, the other plugged into a female plug. Ignore the wire nuts and splices, that was marina work. The plug into the module had a pin somehow pushed out. The plug in the middle of the picture had somehow had the pins spread and had some corrosion.

    On a side note I had to continue to work on this and found some more of this kind of quality work in the harness buried inside of the plastic wrapped wiring. Have to rebuild that part of the harness this weekend. So look for signs that someone has tampered with it. electrical tape is a dead giveaway as is any kind of butt connector etc.
    Attached Files

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  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    Is this this connector then? I read the forum and this is the part number someone said they used. This connector does not have a green wire though?
    Attached Files

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  • Jcbrdnbrg88
    replied
    Thanks for the links to the posts, will definitely be checking the connector after work. Yeah I have been scratching my head on why it ran after replacing the CPS's and then stopped, or why the COS's would randomly fail after winterization.

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