I am in the process of purchasing a used x25 -- upon inspection the boat would not start, oil had water and the spark plugs were rusted - codes show it overheated 2x once at 190 and once at 220. I realize the motor is shot. This does have the salt water package. Any ideas on what a new long block would cost?
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2014 6.2 x25 -- Bad Motor
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Sounds like the head gasket blew or the heads cracked. Might be rebuildable depending on how bad internal rust is.
Here's a marine 6.2, not sure if it is exactly the same configuration that Ilmor uses.
Bailey
'02 X-9
Lake Blue Ridge
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My preference is to buy new if available.
I would call Michigan Motorz and see if they know if that 6.2 block is the same that Ilmor uses. Then all you have to do is swap over the intake/exhaust manifolds and accessories and reinstall.Bailey
'02 X-9
Lake Blue Ridge
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Originally posted by 4stauffers View PostI am in the process of purchasing a used x25 -- upon inspection the boat would not start, oil had water and the spark plugs were rusted - codes show it overheated 2x once at 190 and once at 220. I realize the motor is shot. This does have the salt water package. Any ideas on what a new long block would cost?sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....
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190 and 220 are not overheated, engines run this temp all the time, especially with the closed cooling system.
The oil and water is definitely an issue and would pull the heads and inspect for head gasket damage, trueness of the head and check the exhaust manifolds to makes sure that isn't another issue.1981 MasterCraft
19' Skier 351W PowerSlot
Long gone is the Trans AMwaiting for another
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Originally posted by CruisinGA View PostSounds like the head gasket blew or the heads cracked. Might be rebuildable depending on how bad internal rust is.
Here's a marine 6.2, not sure if it is exactly the same configuration that Ilmor uses.
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/377ci-...ent-p-545.html
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Just my .02 as a shade tree mechanic: the 6.2 is an LS series motor and the block should be the same across the entire LS line. Most likely the block is fine. Also a good chance that the heads are fine. Regardless, tearing it down and sending the block and heads to the machine shop would be a great first step. If the heads are not cracked, then decking them and replacing the valves/springs would be relatively cheap. Assuming the block is fine, line honing of the crank journals and some new bearings would make it good to go. Would a great opportunity to put in some better quality aftermarket materials as well. Forged rods, higher compression pistons, bigger cam, etc. If you really wanted to do crazy you could put a taller crankshaft in it to stroke it out.
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6.2 is a different block than the 5.3 and 7.0. Piston skirts are longer to deal with the extra displacement. I would not be looking for the leak before replacing the motor, especially if the compression test came back as good. There is a good chance there is a lot of life left in that motor and no need to toss it because it was wet once.
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Originally posted by Shaun R View Post6.2 is a different block than the 5.3 and 7.0. Piston skirts are longer to deal with the extra displacement. I would not be looking for the leak before replacing the motor, especially if the compression test came back as good. There is a good chance there is a lot of life left in that motor and no need to toss it because it was wet once.
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