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2014 6.2 x25 -- Bad Motor

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  • 2014 6.2 x25 -- Bad Motor

    I am in the process of purchasing a used x25 -- upon inspection the boat would not start, oil had water and the spark plugs were rusted - codes show it overheated 2x once at 190 and once at 220. I realize the motor is shot. This does have the salt water package. Any ideas on what a new long block would cost?

  • #2
    Sounds like the head gasket blew or the heads cracked. Might be rebuildable depending on how bad internal rust is.


    Here's a marine 6.2, not sure if it is exactly the same configuration that Ilmor uses.

    Bailey
    '02 X-9
    Lake Blue Ridge

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    • #3
      Illmor Motor

      It is an Ilmor 6.2 Salt Water series

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      • #4
        Thanks -- IS it better to just buy new motor or rebuild? I do want it to be reliable.

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        • #5
          My preference is to buy new if available.
          I would call Michigan Motorz and see if they know if that 6.2 block is the same that Ilmor uses. Then all you have to do is swap over the intake/exhaust manifolds and accessories and reinstall.
          Bailey
          '02 X-9
          Lake Blue Ridge

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          • #6
            Originally posted by 4stauffers View Post
            I am in the process of purchasing a used x25 -- upon inspection the boat would not start, oil had water and the spark plugs were rusted - codes show it overheated 2x once at 190 and once at 220. I realize the motor is shot. This does have the salt water package. Any ideas on what a new long block would cost?
            any indication why the motor overheated?
            sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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            • #7
              190 and 220 are not overheated, engines run this temp all the time, especially with the closed cooling system.

              The oil and water is definitely an issue and would pull the heads and inspect for head gasket damage, trueness of the head and check the exhaust manifolds to makes sure that isn't another issue.
              1981 MasterCraft
              19' Skier 351W PowerSlot
              Long gone is the Trans AM waiting for another

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              • #8
                Water in the oil points to an exhaust manifold issue, coolant in the oil points to an internal issue. I would drain the oil and do a compression test before you write it off as a total loss.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by CruisinGA View Post
                  Sounds like the head gasket blew or the heads cracked. Might be rebuildable depending on how bad internal rust is.


                  Here's a marine 6.2, not sure if it is exactly the same configuration that Ilmor uses.

                  http://www.michiganmotorz.com/377ci-...ent-p-545.html
                  That is not the engine ilmor uses - you need the gen 6 376ci engine. This one I believe is just a stroked 350

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                  • #10
                    Ilmor also goes out of their way with internal components and would rather rebuild one of their setups then buy an off the shelf motor.
                    Want to know why Ilmor is respected as one of best technical performance companies in the world? Take a peek inside to see for yourself!

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                    • #11
                      Cost

                      I have called Michigan Motorz -- But haven't connected. Does anyone have experience with full rebuilds on a motor like this? I am told they ran a compression test and all of the cylinders checked out.

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                      • #12
                        No -- The only thing I was told was the owner took the boat off the lift made it a couple minutes and the warning lights / alarms went off. He told them there was fuel all over the place. Seems like a bizarre story!

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                        • #13
                          Just my .02 as a shade tree mechanic: the 6.2 is an LS series motor and the block should be the same across the entire LS line. Most likely the block is fine. Also a good chance that the heads are fine. Regardless, tearing it down and sending the block and heads to the machine shop would be a great first step. If the heads are not cracked, then decking them and replacing the valves/springs would be relatively cheap. Assuming the block is fine, line honing of the crank journals and some new bearings would make it good to go. Would a great opportunity to put in some better quality aftermarket materials as well. Forged rods, higher compression pistons, bigger cam, etc. If you really wanted to do crazy you could put a taller crankshaft in it to stroke it out.

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                          • #14
                            6.2 is a different block than the 5.3 and 7.0. Piston skirts are longer to deal with the extra displacement. I would not be looking for the leak before replacing the motor, especially if the compression test came back as good. There is a good chance there is a lot of life left in that motor and no need to toss it because it was wet once.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Shaun R View Post
                              6.2 is a different block than the 5.3 and 7.0. Piston skirts are longer to deal with the extra displacement. I would not be looking for the leak before replacing the motor, especially if the compression test came back as good. There is a good chance there is a lot of life left in that motor and no need to toss it because it was wet once.
                              **What are your thoughts on the "fuel leak" the owner claimed happened? Could that point to a intake manifold issue?

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