2007 X2-Engine Maintenance-Suggestions

[jrbearley]

SPECS:

2007 X2
5.7 MCX-CAT
204 Hours

Hi guys. I am thinking that I need to do some maintence to my to new to me boat. I have had this boat for a year and put on close to 25 hours on it last summer. I would assume that we will put at least that much time if not closer to doubling that amount this summer. The boat runs good. I am new to owning a boat, but have been around MC for the previous 10 years. Lets just assume that there hasn't been anything done as far as maintence to the boat besides the oil/filter changes. What do you suggest I do? The more input the better IMO!

I have gained a lot of knowedge by just reading post here on TT, this blog rocks!

[93Prostar190]

Congrats on one of the most versatile boats in the MC line up.

I would do a system's check on all the ballast, etc. If those are all working fine then not much to do ... if one of the pumps is taking too long to fill/drain you may need some pump impellors.

On the engine -
Plugs for sure / Rotor and Cap won't hurt
Tranny oil
Impeller
Grease the Starter bendix
Engine oil
Grease rudder/steering cables

Enjoy the boat ...

On the trailer -
Flush and bleed the brake lines
Make sure all the calipers are working
Make sure the winch strap is in good working order and not showing signs of tearing
Service trailer bearings / or at least oil in the hubs (depending which ones)
Make sure tires are less than 5 years old or replace


That is a quick list, while I hold for a conference call ... sweet boat post pics!!!

Good luck!

[jrbearley]

Thanks for the input 93Prostar190. It seems really helpful. I did bleed and flush the brake lines, put new tires on it, and checked the oil bath bearings on the trailer last spring. I also put new 'green' impellers in the ballast pumps. I am not sure how to add pictures! It is wanting a URL??!!!

Any thoughts on plug wires? Thoughts on plugs? Platinum?

[jrbearley]

I hope this works, first time posting pictures.

[gwozhog]

So you have a 13 year old boat with drive by wire. I would replace all the inexpensive gremlin parts and it will save you a failed day on the lake.

Map sensor
Engine temp sensor
Knock sensor
PPS which can be bought here http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_Produ...OyloQrbQ%3D%3D

You should be able to get all parts for under 200 bucks

[93Prostar190]

Thanks for the input 93Prostar190. It seems really helpful. I did bleed and flush the brake lines, put new tires on it, and checked the oil bath bearings on the trailer last spring. I also put new 'green' impellers in the ballast pumps. I am not sure how to add pictures! It is wanting a URL??!!!



Any thoughts on plug wires? Thoughts on plugs? Platinum?

This Delco cross reference from Ski Dim ...

https://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RP030010




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[bturner2]

IDK there's a lot of "if it isn't broke, don't fix it" going on here for me. Screwing with all the sensors or just about anything else on a 200 hour boat is like trolling for a problem to me.

I sold my 07 X2 last year with 400 some hours on it, still had the original plugs, cap and wires. Zero issues and the plugs showed little if any wear or fouling. They basically looked new. I personally wouldn't dream of taking known good sensors off a perfectly good running engine for the sport of it. If you want spares I could see that but just to change them for the sport of it is just asking for trouble. But then again if you're going to follow that logic you may as well order a new set of log nuts for the trailer too.

I do like the other suggestions ProStar makes on the bendix, fluids, impellers and cables. All areas that a lightly used boat might experience issues with and certainly worth the time looking into.

The trailer can be a wild card due to the Reliable brake system components. You can't fix junk and the actuator is just that, junk. If you're looking to spend some money or take on a project on a good running boat with no problems look no further than that actuator. Not sexy I know but with Reliable components it's not if but rather when it's going to fail. If you haven't done so already I would also pull the calipers and grease the slides and the sliding surfaces. You also say you checked the bearing oil but you didn't say you replaced it. At the level you're operating at replacing a scheduled maintenance item would make more sense to me than arbitrarily replacing sensors that are not bad.

The other area that you should be aware of is the fuel pump and recommended operation with that fuel system. The fuel system you have uses a single in tank fuel pump. It is recommended that the tank never go below 1/4 as the fuel itself is used to cool the fuel pump. Running the tank at low levels will allow the pump to get hot and fail. There are entire threads on this with aftermarket replacement fuel pump part numbers and procedures on how to fix it. MY pump went bad at about 120 hours and left me stranded thankfully on an inland lake. I also boat frequently on Lake Erie so when I replaced the fuel pump I ordered 2 of everything and kept a spare in the boat as it's hard to walk on water or get help when you're 10 miles away from the nearest marina. After that I never ran below 1/4 tank and made a habit of looking for gas at a 1/2 tank. Never had an issue with the fuel pump after that.

[jrbearley]

Great information by all!

-gwozhog- I probably will not replace the sensors, but i am really thinking about getting the replacement parts to have on hand just in-case. It is always helpful and good to know what parts are known to fail, so I do appreciate the information.

93prostar19- Thanks for the link to the plugs.

bturner2- Thanks for the information on the fuel pump, as I did not know that the pump is cooled by the fuel in the tank and to keep it above 1/4 of tank. On the trailer I did drain the oil bath and put new oil in the hubs, although the oil that was in them was perfect already. I did grease the slides on the brake calipers at that time as well. Is there a brand that you like to replace the "Reliable" actuator with.....or can I just swap out components? like the springs? I do not think i want to go to an electric brake system as I have to sink my trailer to load and unload (water + electrical = problems imo). Both axles are pretty much under water.

[blackhawk]

-replace rotor, cap, plugs, wires, tranny/engine oil, fuel filter
-maybe replace engine hoses, kind of your call, but not a bad idea on a 13 yo boat
-grease starter and rudder
-clean trans heat exchanger
-check engine alignment and make sure engine mounts are tight
-clean battery terminals and ground on engine block
-buy a spare fuel pump to keep on the boat

I wouldn't bother with replacing sensors.

[jrbearley]

Thanks blackhawk for the input. I appreciate all the input. If anyone has anything add please don’t hesitate. I am going to post part #’s just in case it could help someone else in the future.

[93Prostar190]

Great stuff, I think there is an MCX parts list thread on here also.


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[tr6coug]

I've been down the fuel pump road a few times on 3 different X2s and its always been at least a tow back to the dock and a few days of down-time. With a 13 year old fuel pump that has never been replaced, you're on borrowed time. Bite the bullet and replace it now even though it seems fine. A fuel pump will die without warning (or very little warning) and then your day or possibly your vacation is shot. Having a spare on-board is a good idea but its not something that your going to be able to replace on the water with people on-board.

I would replace the old single pump assembly with the newer style dual pump assembly before the summer. A dealer will probably charge ~$1200 to do it, but if you're not afraid of opening up your fuel tank and replacing the old pump, its fairly straight-forward. My buddy changed one last summer and the pump assembly was around $800. Do some research on this forum and figure out what you need, pump, new wiring harness, gasket, etc.

[Thrall]

Little over 300 hours on our 06 X2.
Aside from basic maintenance items, the 2 failure have been fuel pump and the drive by wire thing in the throttle control.
Still on orig plugs and cap n rotor but probably do those this year, just because.
Realistically they should almost be good for the life of the boat though.

Just replace the fuel pump now. It’s real cheap n easy sitting in your garage in January vs on the lake in July. And there’s about a 95% chance it’ll die inside of 400 hours anyway.
The list of boats on original fuel pumps of this era/design is a very small list.
However it appears the average parts store replacement pumps last longer than OE.

[jrbearley]

Thanks for the replies and encouragement to change out the fuel pump. I do think that is a good time to replace it. I have been researching it some and can not find a lot of information on the double pump assembly. So, I will probably stick to the single. Does anyone recomend a brand over another? Carter, Airtex, Bosch, Delphi, ACDelco? Seems like the more I read...the more confused I get!

[Byrdman]

Here is what you need and it is part number 155202 and the Millennium harness 501000

https://mcpartsdepot.com/products/mo...millenium-9-12

https://mcpartsdepot.com/products/ha...l-pump-2011-12

I just replaced this my self in my 05 X2. Make sure you get new gasket and bolts with it. Pretty straight forward if you know your way around a tool box. Do it outside, unhook your battery, no smoking, swap it out and keep a fire extinguisher close just in case. Clean up the gas dribbles and let it air out after for 15-30 min for the dribbles to evaporate you couldn't get to.

You can just replace the fuel pump inside the assembly with those off the shelf fuel pumps, but the problem is that the plugs are going to be loose and they are unavailable. I searched everywhere and could not find them, even the original manufacturer, Carter. IMO, keep what you have until it gives you problems then replace with the new style assembly.