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  • Improving appearance of replacement exhaust risers

    I'm replacing the original risers on my 94 PS 190 and would like to improve the appearance of the new Indmar risers by eliminating this crude line down the centerline of the top of the risers. My originals were manufactured much cleaner; they have a very narrow, uniform line. I've been sanding the new ones in preparation for re-painting.

    I'm looking for recommendations on a progression of specific tools/attachments to take this metal down flush with the surrounding area and blend it into the surrounding area or possibly smooth the whole part if I can't blend it. Among the tools I have available are an angle grinder, die grinder, belt sander, orbital sander, rotary buffer, and files. I've used them all, but not all extensively and want to get it right the first time.

    Top view of whole riser:

    Click image for larger version

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    Close-up of one poor area:

    Click image for larger version

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    lake weir skier
    MC Fanatic
    Last edited by lake weir skier; 01-01-2021, 06:56 PM.
    1994 ProStar 190, 350 TBI, 1:1, ACME 541, PTM Edge VR-140

  • #2
    Brian,

    Here is what little I know with an example of even how much less I know.

    The cast iron is less than stellar compared to other metallurgical properties and components so it has a wishy-washy response.

    I was curious to find out how grinding would work on a set of risers, so I decided to grind down the ridge on the riser where the hose slides over it...(then a hose clamp behind the ridge for extra good measures).

    Fast forward, I used an angle grinding tool with an 80 grit flapper wheel (grinding disc). In the power plants, that is where a pipe fitter will go to prep a weld joint on piping or a welder prepping an angle on structural for welding. I am not a craftsman by a long shot.

    So I put the wheel on the ridge and away I went. Material comes off quickly so a little grinding is sufficient.

    Here are the results and as you can see it is not a pretty looking, rounded finish, but I think with a good cutting grit wheel (maybe 120 or 200?) you can smooth out the surface area and clean it up nicely (learn as you go). It's all I got as for my grinding skills.

    I do not recommend doing this for practical application. Keep the ridge and use it as is intended.

    .
    Attached Files
    93 190
    .

    Comment


    • #3
      Will take some time, belt sander works great…will polish any raised surface, pebbles, raised seems, once in a while a factory grind mark will be below the surface medium ~ low spot but, but with time, most can be worked out…will get a pic up, maybe tom…Ceramic brake caliper paint works great when painting the risers…adds a lot to the look of the engine, worth the time…

      Belt sander will give an even appearance…like a body shop working on a car panel.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by waterlogged882 View Post
        Brian,

        Here is what little I know with an example of even how much less I know.

        The cast iron is less than stellar compared to other metallurgical properties and components so it has a wishy-washy response.

        I was curious to find out how grinding would work on a set of risers, so I decided to grind down the ridge on the riser where the hose slides over it...(then a hose clamp behind the ridge for extra good measures).

        Fast forward, I used an angle grinding tool with an 80 grit flapper wheel (grinding disc). In the power plants, that is where a pipe fitter will go to prep a weld joint on piping or a welder prepping an angle on structural for welding. I am not a craftsman by a long shot.

        So I put the wheel on the ridge and away I went. Material comes off quickly so a little grinding is sufficient.

        Here are the results and as you can see it is not a pretty looking, rounded finish, but I think with a good cutting grit wheel (maybe 120 or 200?) you can smooth out the surface area and clean it up nicely (learn as you go). It's all I got as for my grinding skills.

        I do not recommend doing this for practical application. Keep the ridge and use it as is intended.

        .

        You mean you haven't cast your own iron barbell weights and gone to town on them with an angle grinder, etc? Terrible video for learning exactly what she's using, but she does get a nice looking result.

        Dirty Grinding - Cast Iron Gypsy using an angle grinder and die grinder
        1994 ProStar 190, 350 TBI, 1:1, ACME 541, PTM Edge VR-140

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Fullpass View Post
          Will take some time, belt sander works great…will polish any raised surface, pebbles, raised seems, once in a while a factory grind mark will be below the surface medium ~ low spot but, but with time, most can be worked out…will get a pic up, maybe tom…Ceramic brake caliper paint works great when painting the risers…adds a lot to the look of the engine, worth the time…

          Belt sander will give an even appearance…like a body shop working on a car panel.
          What grits?
          1994 ProStar 190, 350 TBI, 1:1, ACME 541, PTM Edge VR-140

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          • #6
            Thinking I started 80 grit with a quality belt sander (I had used a porter cable 3x24) and belt…then worked the way up 100 then 120, removed the pebbles and rough seems…with the 80 then moved up 100 then 120...

            Comment


            • #7
              After you get then ground down and/or sanded...

              https://www.jet-hot.com/classic-polish

              1993 25th Anniversary Limited ProStar 190, #17

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by bret View Post
                After you get then ground down and/or sanded...

                https://www.jet-hot.com/classic-polish

                Nice. So you shipped them your parts?

                What black paint is on your engine?
                1994 ProStar 190, 350 TBI, 1:1, ACME 541, PTM Edge VR-140

                Comment


                • #9
                  Yes. You can call them and they'll send you a box or just UPS or FedEx them yours, they'll send back in a Jet-Hot box.

                  You can put Plugs where you don't want the coating to go(steel of course) or have taps available just in case.

                  Mine is the older Sterling 1200, this was done in 1994. Black paint is all OEM, 610 hrs.
                  1993 25th Anniversary Limited ProStar 190, #17

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I’d go angle grinder with fine wheel first. Go more coarse if you need to. Then sanding if you want smoother.
                    Challenge will be when you grind down the casting line it will be smooth. The rest of the part is the “as cast” surface, so won’t match.
                    Now what? Either sand the whole thing or maybe use a hammer peen tool or similar to create imperfections in the smooth line, so it matches?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by bret View Post
                      Yes. You can call them and they'll send you a box or just UPS or FedEx them yours, they'll send back in a Jet-Hot box.

                      You can put Plugs where you don't want the coating to go(steel of course) or have taps available just in case.

                      Mine is the older Sterling 1200, this was done in 1994. Black paint is all OEM, 610 hrs.
                      My exhaust manifolds have "MasterCraft Power" on the outer sides in raised letters that are silver against the otherwise black manifold. Do yours also have raised letters? If so, did they finish them in the same color as the rest of the manifold or are they set off somehow?
                      1994 ProStar 190, 350 TBI, 1:1, ACME 541, PTM Edge VR-140

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                      • #12
                        I hand painted my riser letters with silver.

                        Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
                        sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by mikeg205 View Post
                          I hand painted my riser letters with silver.

                          Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
                          That's what I did when I was touching up my risers a few years ago that were painted black with silver letters. I think I used some silver paint I got at Hobby Lobby.

                          Since Bret has risers that are silver, I was curious what, if anything, he did with the letters if he has them.
                          1994 ProStar 190, 350 TBI, 1:1, ACME 541, PTM Edge VR-140

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                          • #14
                            I just did the same thing - removed my original manifolds, sanded them down and painted with high temp gloss black engine paint. I then hand painted the INDMAR lettering with silver paint used when building models. It's been over a year and they look great.
                            2002, X30, L-18, Red Metal Flake (the possessed boat)

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                            • #15
                              This is how the new risers look after sanding with a belt sander, sanding by hand to remove some flats introduced on curves with the belt sander, and painting. Along the way, I filled in some imperfections in the casting with JB Weld. I painted with Rustoleum Engine Primer 500 F followed by three coats of Rustoleum Engine Enamel 500 F in Gloss Black. The "before" photos are in my first post.



                              Click image for larger version  Name:	image_215348.jpg Views:	4 Size:	2.65 MB ID:	2695045

                              Click image for larger version  Name:	1994 Mastercraft ProStar 190 -- New risers sanded and repainted -- Top view.jpg Views:	0 Size:	3.36 MB ID:	2695041 Click image for larger version  Name:	1994 Mastercraft ProStar 190 -- New risers sanded and repainted -- Side view.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.34 MB ID:	2695040
                              lake weir skier
                              MC Fanatic
                              Last edited by lake weir skier; 11-28-2021, 05:23 AM.
                              1994 ProStar 190, 350 TBI, 1:1, ACME 541, PTM Edge VR-140

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