Motor rebuild/updating boat.

[Sully_6]

Long story short, I’ve been on this forum for awhile, bought an 01 x10 2 years ago, had issues nearly a month after I bought it (previous threads)
Well this past year/winter as I was starting to pull things from the motor, trying to figure out my oil problem with plans to have it rebuilt I managed to only drain one side of the engine, cracked the block. Anyway, got a year old crate 350 tbi for way cheaper than a rebuild would’ve cost anyway so I guess it was a blessing in disguise.
I’ve already pulled the old motor, and pulled all accessories off that will be transferred to the new motor. While I have the engine out I will be doing some updating (will post in the refurbish threads once complete)

I have a few loaded questions I’ve tried to search for with partial luck and I want to do everything RIGHT with this replacement.

1) Where’s the best place and best price to find a full marine 350 gasket set?
2)I will be replacing my manifolds and risers, anyone have experience with the BARR sets? Or should I pay the extra for OEM on skidim? Don’t wanna cut corners but want to make my money go as far as it can.
3) Aside from the bolt ons (starter, alternator, distributor cap) going to also just swap the entire intake over to the new motor after inspecting since computer, harness is all on there. Will replace all hoses, belts, and pull the cooling system and swap over, and camshaft. Is there anything I am missing? And as far as timing goes, what’s the best way to get new engine timed once installed?
4) best transmission dampener to replace the old one? Where’s the best place for trans seals as well?

Please let me know if you have tips, suggestions, or any concerns! Love to hear from guys with experience doing this kind of thing. I’m very mechanically inclined have access to most things needed and prefer to do everything I can myself but I’m also learning as I go.

[wtrskr]

-Did you get a short block or a long block? I assume a short block and keeping your heads?

I ask to know if you need the head gaskets or not? If not, I wouldn't do a marine gasket set. Of course then you'd need gaskets for the risers separately if you are replacing those. You can look on Summit Racing, Jegs, or maybe even Amazon for full SBC 350 gasket sets. I was told by one engine remanufacturer that you'd be fine with even with automotive head gaskets (unless saltwater use), for what that's worth.

-Did I read it correctly that you are swapping over your current camshaft? Keep all your lifters, pushrods etc. in the exact same order on the new engine, as supposedly the camshaft develops wear patterns with the lifters and other parts. You have to be careful, because it is easy for parts to fall to the ground and get mixed up.

-The timing is tough on the initial start up. I marked the location of distributor as best I could. It was pretty rough on the first start up. An alternative is to use a timing light to turn the engine over with the fuel pump fuse out. You can somewhat set your timing from there before the first full startup.

-I used the Altda 106 dampener, I believe. Ski Dim suggested that it is okay, even for powerslot. E basic power suggested one a little more beefy for powerslot and it didn't cost that much more. Don't put the dampener on backwards! Slide it on the tramsmission off to the the side first, so you can confirm the direction. I also had to pick up some lock washers from the hardware store to install it.

-Make sure you obtain the torque specs - at the very least for the head gaskets and items you don't want to come loose such as the oil pump and flywheel.

-I'd make sure to get a new timing chain if you have a decent number of hours on the old one.

I have a separate live thread that might help if you want to look through it.

[wtrskr]

Maybe one correction on my last post. If you have an '01 with roller rockers, you might not have to worry about keeping everything in the same order. That may only apply to flat tappet, not sure though.

[Sully_6]

Thanks for the reply,
I actually bought a long block, it was pulled out of a pickup the morning I bought it (guy is doing an LS swap) and this motor was only a couple years old with a few thousand miles on it.
I am swapping my old camshaft into the new motor because I’ve heard that auto cams are different than marine and can cause motor to pull in water. I have no experience with them so I figure better to be safe than sorry, if it would be better I will buy a new camshaft. Like I said, I want to do it all right.
Also, since the block was pulled from a truck I figured it would be best to do a full gasket set, will probably keep the heads on the new motor.

I do have another question, when I pulled the exhaust manifolds off the old motor there was no actual gasket present, it was sealed with a liquid gasket of some sort. Is there a gasket that supposed to go there or is it best to use a liquid gasket?

[waterlogged882]

.........I do have another question, when I pulled the exhaust manifolds off the old motor there was no actual gasket present, it was sealed with a liquid gasket of some sort. Is there a gasket that supposed to go there or is it best to use a liquid gasket?

I have seen it both ways. For me, I'd add a gasket from the kit (if you decide on a kit) or get one from Discount Inboard Marine.

.

[gwozhog]

Don’t skimp on quality parts. The labor is what is expensive and you doing it yourself so spend the money on quality chit. Hale marine will have the seals you need for your transmission and inboard online is a great place for damperplates and other indmar parts too.

[wtrskr]

Thanks for the reply,
I actually bought a long block, it was pulled out of a pickup the morning I bought it (guy is doing an LS swap) and this motor was only a couple years old with a few thousand miles on it.
I am swapping my old camshaft into the new motor because I’ve heard that auto cams are different than marine and can cause motor to pull in water. I have no experience with them so I figure better to be safe than sorry, if it would be better I will buy a new camshaft. Like I said, I want to do it all right.
Also, since the block was pulled from a truck I figured it would be best to do a full gasket set, will probably keep the heads on the new motor.

I do have another question, when I pulled the exhaust manifolds off the old motor there was no actual gasket present, it was sealed with a liquid gasket of some sort. Is there a gasket that supposed to go there or is it best to use a liquid gasket?

-I think you are making the right move with swapping your camshaft. I couldn't even figure out how to find a new camshaft that would have matched my old one, other than trying to accurately measure mine. They aren't stamped clearly.

-Not sure what to think about using the heads that came with the new engine vs. using your old? The heads from the truck might be different (different torque profile etc). If you swap on your old heads and camshaft onto this new engine, the performance should be the same as your old setup. There should be casting numbers on the heads that you can check against your old.

-If the engine came from a truck, you may want to swap out the freeze plugs for brass versions.

-I'm not sure why you'd need a marine gasket set if you aren't using the head gaskets? I think those may be the only gaskets in a set that would need to be marine specific. I guess maybe the intake manifold gaskets too. The oil pan, timing chain, rear main seal, etc. should be the same as auto. I don't know if SkiDim has a full set with everything or if you have to buy different gaskets separately? I believe Summit and Jegs have full marine and auto sets that should give you pretty much everything.

I'm not suggesting skimping on quality, just that you find a FelPro set, and don't pay extra for the Marine version whose difference from the automotive may only be the head gaskets that you won't be using.

-Regarding the exhaust manifolds, a full gasket set may come with those (not for the risers though). I think the automotive version of exhaust manifold gaskets should still work, as the gaskets are designed to cover the same opening from the heads, even though the actual manfolds are structured different. I actually went with a little high temp RTV there, as my old setup came that way and held up fine for the 7 years I had it.

[88 PS190]

I am swapping my old camshaft into the new motor because I’ve heard that auto cams are different than marine and can cause motor to pull in water.

They are different - I believe the argument is that marine cams tend to be designed to generate less intake manifold vacuum. Presumably by having the exhaust valve open slightly longer on the intake stroke than a street cam would and this might pull enough suction to bring some water down from the riser.

But the main thing is that boats need to be able to run constantly at relatively good power everywhere from idle to 5000rpm for hours at a time. You need to be able to go 650rpm for 2 hours down a river or to get out on a lake and cruise at whatever RPM your boat and prop needs for cruising speed and that can easily be a 4000+rpm for however long you see fit.

Compare that to an automotive application, even in stop and go traffic you're not sitting at a raw no wake zone idle for an hour every time it moves you rev up to 1200+ rpm. And then you're going down the highway at 75 in cruise control and the engine isn't always dropping gear and going to 4000 rpm every time you go up a hill that'd drive you bonkers so that auto cam needs to have really good power from 1000-3000 rpm. Sort of the opposite of what your boat needs.

[Sully_6]

I already have brass freeze plugs for the new engine, as far as the heads go, I will do some digging and see if the new ones will work or if I should swap them (given they are still in good shape) I haven’t pulled the heads yet to look at them. I am trying to get away with using as many parts off the new motor that I can rather than swapping 20 year old parts into a new motor aside from the camshaft and bolt ons (most are less than 2 years old)
My main priority is using new manifolds, my risers are in good shape but I haven’t heard anyone comment on the quality of BARR manifolds which would save me some money short term anyway, if they aren’t worth a damn on quality then I will buy an oem set.

If I was only doing engine work I wouldn’t even be concerned with saving money where I can.
But I am replacing all flooring, getting seats re upholstered, doing some painting of interior parts, replacing exhaust hoses while it’s all a part, re routing a bunch of wiring, re routing all ballast hoses and pumps, swapping my medallion gauges to analog, and probably stuff I’m forgetting! But the costs are adding up in a hurry so saving where I can is a big plus but I also know how important quality exhaust parts are in keeping my new motor in good shape. I am very excited to get everything finished on it and begin enjoying the boat again, plus I believe it’s gonna look fantastic once I am done and I will know almost everything about it by the time it is done.

[Sully_6]

Thanks for the reply 88, I will be swapping mine out.

[etduc]

So, explain reasoning...of installing a 20 year old cam shaft, when you don't now the specs of the old engine or replacement engine. Here's the specs, of a vortec light duty crate engine.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Per...91673/10002/-1

[waterlogged882]

.

[Sully_6]

So, explain reasoning...of installing a 20 year old cam shaft, when you don't now the specs of the old engine or replacement engine. Here's the specs, of a vortec light duty crate engine.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Per...91673/10002/-1

Not sure if you’re here to help or be a smart ***? It’s easy to find the specs of a crate motor. Not so easy finding the specs of a 2001 Indmar 350 and what camshaft was used so I was hoping that someone here would know or be of help.

Anyway, my reasoning for installing a 20 year old camshaft into a nearly new block is simple and stated in the thread. I have found many more people to say that the cam shaft needs to be marine specific, so that no water can ingest into the motor due to the cam. Since this is an automotive vortec crate motor, it has an automotive camshaft in it. Therefor, swapping the new cam out and putting the old one in made more sense to me than taking a chance, if you have more valuable info for me let me know

[wtrskr]

Sounds like an awesome project. I totally get how the little dollars add up.

They do have marine camshafts at Summitt: https://www.summitracing.com/search/...rder=Ascending. The problem is, I don't know how you find one that matches what Mastercraft would have used originally.

As long as your current intake manifold bolts to the new heads, it should work, and work with the ECM. You just may end up with different performance than your old setup (could be better or worse I guess). I talked with a local machine shop that does a lot of head work, and he was able to look up the profile of my current heads when I gave him the casting number over the phone. You could try calling a shop.

An option would be to bring your old heads into a shop to get reworked, then sell the other heads to recoup some or all of those costs.

Given you should have roller lifters with an '01, I doubt that the old camshaft has seen much wear that it would affect anything. Don't rely on me as the expert though.

[slalomjunkie]

Long story short, I’ve been on this forum for awhile, bought an 01 x10 2 years ago, had issues nearly a month after I bought it (previous threads)
Well this past year/winter as I was starting to pull things from the motor, trying to figure out my oil problem with plans to have it rebuilt I managed to only drain one side of the engine, cracked the block. Anyway, got a year old crate 350 tbi for way cheaper than a rebuild would’ve cost anyway so I guess it was a blessing in disguise.
I’ve already pulled the old motor, and pulled all accessories off that will be transferred to the new motor. While I have the engine out I will be doing some updating (will post in the refurbish threads once complete)

I have a few loaded questions I’ve tried to search for with partial luck and I want to do everything RIGHT with this replacement.

1) Where’s the best place and best price to find a full marine 350 gasket set?

2)I will be replacing my manifolds and risers, anyone have experience with the BARR sets?

Or should I pay the extra for OEM on skidim? Don’t wanna cut corners but want to make my money go as far as it can.

3) Aside from the bolt ons (starter, alternator, distributor cap) going to also just swap the entire intake over to the new motor after inspecting since computer, harness is all on there. Will replace all hoses, belts, and pull the cooling system and swap over, and camshaft. Is there anything I am missing? And as far as timing goes, what’s the best way to get new engine timed once installed?

4) best transmission dampener to replace the old one? Where’s the best place for trans seals as well?

Please let me know if you have tips, suggestions, or any concerns! Love to hear from guys with experience doing this kind of thing. I’m very mechanically inclined have access to most things needed and prefer to do everything I can myself but I’m also learning as I go.

I just did exactly what you did. I put in a new crate motor from summit racing. Unless you have some far fetched idea that your boat is going to go up in value bc you have the original engine in it, it is not worth rebuilding the old motor time/labor wise. Your boat isn't a 63 split window 327 corvette.


For risers, manifolds (I paid $800 for mine @ skidim) , gaskets and tranny damper - just call ski dim - they are AWESOME. Seriously, they are gods gift to aftermarket inboard service.

It might cost slightly more, but you're going to get the right thing the 1st time EVERY TIME.

My engine is a beast now and the stargazer 9.2.1 software upgrade makes it almost identical to ZO