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Motor rebuild/updating boat.

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  • Sully_6
    replied
    Another update for anyone who may be following.
    I am in the process of cleaning my floors and sidewalls where all the old carpet was. Haven't decided the best route to take on sidewall and bow storage replacement since it is rough fiberglass, I am thinking to just use EVA foam instead of going back with carpet and using wakulla mat for my main floor and rear locker flooring.

    I have gone through most of my wiring under the dash and was able to trace out nearly everything successfully. I don't understand why my bilge pump and float switch is in the same harness as my fuel pump and sender, I would think that it would be separate but it is what it is since its factory. I am assuming it splits off behind the dash and the sender wire goes to the gauge but haven't removed any of my gauges yet to see for sure.
    I have removed my factory ballast harness and am in the process of making a new one with new switches. I've decided to keep the aerator pumps instead of investing more money, time, and drilling into my hull for something that will make no difference in the long run besides 3 fewer pumps.

    Now for an interesting note.. I spoke with a guy that services inboard/ wakeboard boats only and explained to him what I am doing with the engine swap. He told me NOT to swap the camshafts, only all the bolt on marine specific parts and do head gaskets(if I wanted to). His explanation was that since they are both vortec 350 tbi motors the camshafts (if they aren't already the exact same) will not be enough of a difference to even notice and shouldn't affect my tuning what so ever or cause water ingestion. So unless anyone chimes in with more concrete evidence as to why I actually should swap cams then I will be keeping the crate motor intact and replacing freeze plugs, starter, alternator, cap etc. and since its out on a stand I'll replace the head gaskets. Upholstery will be sent off in the next week, hopefully if all goes well I will be back on the water in a couple months or less! Will update the thread with more pics once things start coming back together.

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  • Sully_6
    replied
    Originally posted by 73blue View Post
    Would be a good time to upgrade your ballast to reversible pumps while you're in there.

    Also, I dont have any experience with this, but as deep as you are into it, might it be easier to separate the hull now. Seems like the wiring, flooring, and engine work would be much simpler.
    I’ve considered it, however I can access most of the wiring pretty easily how it is now. It is just a mess from past owners adding/removing accessories and leaving stuff in there tied in that’s not even in use. Just lazy stuff.

    I may add reversible pumps, but I was just considering upgrading to 1200 gph aerators and calling it good. I will definitely continue looking into the reverse pumps with a thru Hull though because from what I understand I can’t use the existing thru hulls on the back of the boat and the reverse pumps go through the bottom correct?

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  • 73blue
    replied
    Originally posted by Sully_6 View Post
    Started to go through all my wiring, I am wanting to clean it up, organize it and understand where everything is, and where it’s going. This project is making me get ocd.

    I have removed wiring that was not in use from old speakers, and amplifiers (previous owner just let em hanging) I’ve started removing old light wiring, and now I am working on my ballast switches. I can’t seem to understand how the switches are wired up, each switch apparently runs two separate aerator pumps, one for fill and one for empty. each pump has two wires going into it, but each switch has 3 wires and a jumper to the breaker next to the switch. Obviously it needs power and ground which I can only assume ties into wiring in the dash. But where are the two wires from each pump? Is there a relay of some sort under the dash? I’m frustrated at the mess of wires under the dash/ throughout the boat and all of the plastic tubing that each bundle is in and since I have no wiring schematic I am having to trace it all out.

    My plan is to take all switches that are already in the boat and run the wiring in a way that I can easily access or trace out a problem and eliminate all of the splices and stuff like that for my bilge pump, lights, blower, and accessories and also swap my gauges to analog.
    Would be a good time to upgrade your ballast to reversible pumps while you're in there.

    Also, I dont have any experience with this, but as deep as you are into it, might it be easier to separate the hull now. Seems like the wiring, flooring, and engine work would be much simpler.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sully_6
    replied
    Started to go through all my wiring, I am wanting to clean it up, organize it and understand where everything is, and where it’s going. This project is making me get ocd.

    I have removed wiring that was not in use from old speakers, and amplifiers (previous owner just let em hanging) I’ve started removing old light wiring, and now I am working on my ballast switches. I can’t seem to understand how the switches are wired up, each switch apparently runs two separate aerator pumps, one for fill and one for empty. each pump has two wires going into it, but each switch has 3 wires and a jumper to the breaker next to the switch. Obviously it needs power and ground which I can only assume ties into wiring in the dash. But where are the two wires from each pump? Is there a relay of some sort under the dash? I’m frustrated at the mess of wires under the dash/ throughout the boat and all of the plastic tubing that each bundle is in and since I have no wiring schematic I am having to trace it all out.

    My plan is to take all switches that are already in the boat and run the wiring in a way that I can easily access or trace out a problem and eliminate all of the splices and stuff like that for my bilge pump, lights, blower, and accessories and also swap my gauges to analog.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sully_6
    replied
    Thanks guy, didn’t realize I could resize once selected.
    Attached Files

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  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by Sully_6 View Post
    I am trying to upload pics but keep getting an error, I apologize for that!
    My guess is that you need to resize the photo. The Stingies here have a very small attachment file size limit.

    Look closely at the Attachment Manager below the text box or the attachment upload window (near the top of the small window) and it will tell you exactly what the issue is. There is also a legend in the manager that tells acceptable file types and size limits for attaching a photo.

    .

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  • Sully_6
    replied
    I am trying to upload pics but keep getting an error, I apologize for that!

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  • Sully_6
    replied
    Figure I would throw an update in, I am still at waiting on some parts to come in for the motor, transmission, and a few misc things.
    In the mean time I have been basically gutting the boat. I’ve removed all carpet, all interior pieces have also been removed and I am in the process of getting quotes from upholsterers.

    I’ve removed all ballasts and hoses except for my ski locker, that one will come out today.
    Next step is to remove most of the wiring that is basically half *** laid out in my boat and in the bilge and re route with new connections and zero splices so it will be much easier to trouble shoot if something does happen. I really want to re wire all of my switches so that may be what gets done.
    Although it will take some time I am excited to be moving along some.

    Leave a comment:


  • etduc
    replied
    Originally posted by Sully_6 View Post
    Not sure if you’re here to help or be a smart ***? It’s easy to find the specs of a crate motor. Not so easy finding the specs of a 2001 Indmar 350 and what camshaft was used so I was hoping that someone here would know or be of help.

    Anyway, my reasoning for installing a 20 year old camshaft into a nearly new block is simple and stated in the thread. I have found many more people to say that the cam shaft needs to be marine specific, so that no water can ingest into the motor due to the cam. Since this is an automotive vortec crate motor, it has an automotive camshaft in it. Therefor, swapping the new cam out and putting the old one in made more sense to me than taking a chance, if you have more valuable info for me let me know
    Not a smart***, but have stayed in a, HolidayInn Express.
    Page: 4
    https://cdn.bakesonline.com/media/re...epairSpecs.pdf
    .274 in/.283 ex They don't list, lobe separation, which makes a difference, on low-end torque. Probably, a wider angle(most Detroit truck engines, it's safe and produces more low end torque. ) So, really it's about was it a truck crate engine or car? (cars tend to have a slightly closer angle, for slightly bigger HP numbers.)

    Just for grins, https://www.hotrod.com/articles/cams...ted-explained/

    Look at the torque graph. Look at the gains, between 25-4000 rpm/

    Hope it works out well.
    Last edited by etduc; 05-19-2021, 02:17 PM.

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  • mikeg205
    replied
    Lots of pics please

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • slalomjunkie
    replied
    Originally posted by wtrskr View Post
    Ah, you did get a marine engine. Nice. I was looking at short blocks to save a few bucks and I don't believe they had separate marine versions for those. My heads didn't have that many hours on them, so I kept my old.

    I believe what you got there is probably better / more heavy-duty than the original setup. I see the double roller timing chain, for example. I'd bet the piston and rings and some of the other parts are better than OEM too.
    Yep, she is running stronger than ever, and I just ordered a new throttle handle. BTW, the MV2 and MV3 replacement is CH2200P, also a great price @SkiDim.

    I think in the off season we will pull the transmission out and rebuild it.

    Leave a comment:


  • wtrskr
    replied
    Ah, you did get a marine engine. Nice. I was looking at short blocks to save a few bucks and I don't believe they had separate marine versions for those. My heads didn't have that many hours on them, so I kept my old.

    I believe what you got there is probably better / more heavy-duty than the original setup. I see the double roller timing chain, for example. I'd bet the piston and rings and some of the other parts are better than OEM too.

    Leave a comment:


  • slalomjunkie
    replied
    Originally posted by wtrskr View Post
    I assume Slalomjunkie's crate from Summit was automotive, so that camshaft might be more than adequate. For what it's worth, I looked into getting an ATK remanufactured engine from Summit and the guy there said I should swap over my old camshaft.

    I assumed the marine version of the camshaft had more to do with the torque profile. From my googling things, I found comments that marine camshafts are basically RV camshafts.
    I ordered this

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HME-DMA1-GTP

    Leave a comment:


  • wtrskr
    replied
    I reached out to Engine Nut last fall and I believe I had asked about the cam question and he didn't have the specs. I recall at the very least, he confirmed that I wouldn't be able to find the same one based on the markings.

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  • Sully_6
    replied
    No I haven’t reached out to indmar yet, wanted to pull as much info here before I tried.

    I do believe this motor has an RV cam in it, waiting to hear back from the guy I bought it from, he did mention that prior to me buying it. I appreciate everyone’s help thus far.

    Leave a comment:

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