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  • Double D
    replied
    Originally posted by Prostar 190 View Post
    The interior was starting to get a little hard so we had it redone. Put it back to factory interior except the front bow seat embroidery I wasn't a fan of the MC half star logo.
    Beautiful!! Some day…

    Leave a comment:


  • Prostar 190
    replied
    The interior was starting to get a little hard so we had it redone. Put it back to factory interior except the front bow seat embroidery I wasn't a fan of the MC half star logo.
    Attached Files

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  • Lobo
    replied
    Removed the ski extension on my board racks. Making both sides of my rack usable for wake and surf boards. Anyone looking for extensions mine are available.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pro351
    replied
    Originally posted by RxMC View Post

    How come you're changing that? Just curious.
    I removed the back seat and was cleaning the carpet. I then noticed that the main fuel line was dry rotted and starting to crack. So I'll instead of cutting and repairing... I decided to replace the entire line, which runs underneath the tank, then along the hull and connects to the fuel/water separator. I attached a picture of the new line installed, which runs along the exhaust hose.

    Leave a comment:


  • RxMC
    replied
    Originally posted by Pro351 View Post
    In the process of changing the main fuel hose on my 90 Prostar. It runs from the tank to the fuel/water separater.
    How come you're changing that? Just curious.

    Leave a comment:


  • prostar205
    replied
    Originally posted by jnb0y View Post

    I think in 2003, 4 or 5 they switched to a returnless fuel system on the 8.1. The pump is variable speed or there is a pressure bypass in the tank. I don't know how Indmar does it but this is what I've heard about the 8.1L in trucks and RVs. Yes, that is a raw water strainer. I think its original equipment.
    Can you shoot some more pictures of the strainer? Wondering if I can add that to me 2002.

    Leave a comment:


  • jnb0y
    replied
    Originally posted by prostar205 View Post

    Thanks for the pictures.
    Another question/observation - do you not have a fuel return line back to your fuel pump? My 2002 L-18 has a return. Also, is that a strainer in picture 3 and 4 for your incoming raw water?
    I think in 2003, 4 or 5 they switched to a returnless fuel system on the 8.1. The pump is variable speed or there is a pressure bypass in the tank. I don't know how Indmar does it but this is what I've heard about the 8.1L in trucks and RVs. Yes, that is a raw water strainer. I think its original equipment.

    Leave a comment:


  • prostar205
    replied
    Originally posted by jnb0y View Post

    Yea, the original filter location is miserable. I did my first oil change on this boat and swore the next one would be to install a remote kit. I got the spin on adapter (PN 15705) and remote mount (PN 25709) from Derale Performance. They sell a complete kit with hose and fittings, but I ended up sourcing my own parts locally. The lifting hook on the front starboard side of the engine already has the holes that perfectly match the pattern on the remote mount. I had to bend the dip stick tube slightly back so it was on the aft side of that lifting hook to avoid a conflict with the new filter location. The filter mount uses a different filter than the L18 engine. You will switch to a Fram PH8A / HP1 filter form after you install the remote filter mount. Once you get the original filter off you just assemble the spin on adapter and spin it into place where the original filter came out. To make sure you get the oil in and out ports straight I recommend marking them with a Sharpie on both sides of the adapter before you install it. There are marks on the adapter but they won't be visible once it is installed on the engine block. After that just attach the lines and route them up to the remote filter mount. Just make sure you keep the oil flow correct between the adapters (out of spin on adapter, in to remote filter mount; out of remote filter mount, in to spin on adapter). If you cross those lines you will have big trouble.
    Thanks for the pictures.
    Another question/observation - do you not have a fuel return line back to your fuel pump? My 2002 L-18 has a return. Also, is that a strainer in picture 3 and 4 for your incoming raw water?

    Leave a comment:


  • jnb0y
    replied
    Originally posted by prostar205 View Post

    Can I get more information on the oil filter relocation kit you used? I see you have the L-18 engine in your X55. I have the same engine in my X30 and can complete relate to your comment regarding the circus act that needs to be done to get the filter off. Also the mess that is makes in the bilge trying to maneuver the filter around the trans cooler lines.
    Yea, the original filter location is miserable. I did my first oil change on this boat and swore the next one would be to install a remote kit. I got the spin on adapter (PN 15705) and remote mount (PN 25709) from Derale Performance. They sell a complete kit with hose and fittings, but I ended up sourcing my own parts locally. The lifting hook on the front starboard side of the engine already has the holes that perfectly match the pattern on the remote mount. I had to bend the dip stick tube slightly back so it was on the aft side of that lifting hook to avoid a conflict with the new filter location. The filter mount uses a different filter than the L18 engine. You will switch to a Fram PH8A / HP1 filter form after you install the remote filter mount. Once you get the original filter off you just assemble the spin on adapter and spin it into place where the original filter came out. To make sure you get the oil in and out ports straight I recommend marking them with a Sharpie on both sides of the adapter before you install it. There are marks on the adapter but they won't be visible once it is installed on the engine block. After that just attach the lines and route them up to the remote filter mount. Just make sure you keep the oil flow correct between the adapters (out of spin on adapter, in to remote filter mount; out of remote filter mount, in to spin on adapter). If you cross those lines you will have big trouble.

    Leave a comment:


  • prostar205
    replied
    Originally posted by jnb0y View Post
    I have a 2010 X55 and when I do anything in the engine bay, I have to remove the StarBoard dividers that separate the lockers from the engine. This involves screws and Nyloc nuts with washers that always tend to fall and land under the engine. Enough was enough, I ordered some compression latches and installed them into the StarBoard dividers. Now, when I need to service something, removing the panels doesn't even require a tool. And since I was making my life easier, I relocated my oil filter. No more standing on my head to do an oil change.


    Can I get more information on the oil filter relocation kit you used? I see you have the L-18 engine in your X55. I have the same engine in my X30 and can complete relate to your comment regarding the circus act that needs to be done to get the filter off. Also the mess that is makes in the bilge trying to maneuver the filter around the trans cooler lines.

    Leave a comment:


  • jnb0y
    replied
    I have a 2010 X55 and when I do anything in the engine bay, I have to remove the StarBoard dividers that separate the lockers from the engine. This involves screws and Nyloc nuts with washers that always tend to fall and land under the engine. Enough was enough, I ordered some compression latches and installed them into the StarBoard dividers. Now, when I need to service something, removing the panels doesn't even require a tool. And since I was making my life easier, I relocated my oil filter. No more standing on my head to do an oil change.



    Leave a comment:


  • dbatteiger
    replied
    Originally posted by J NORRIS View Post
    researching drivetrain alignment, here on the site. Finding good instructions on shaft alignment. Seems like I need to align everything up after a submerged log hit. maybe a new strut!? Can those things be straightened with a rubber mallet? If so, does it damage the integrity of the metal?
    I have straightened struts before if slightly bent while still on the boat. It is easiest if you have a spare shaft.to put in the end toward the stern and tweak it however it needs. Then put your good shaft back in and see how it lines up with the center of the trans shaft. Depending on the strike it can bend anything. Just have to check. Harbor Freight makes a clamp on dial indicator I use if I suspect I bent my prop. Knock on wood its been a few years since I hit anything.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pro351
    replied
    In the process of changing the main fuel hose on my 90 Prostar. It runs from the tank to the fuel/water separater.

    Leave a comment:


  • OHIOPRO205
    replied
    Oh no. I am thinking of doing this but that is one fear I have.

    Leave a comment:


  • MarCraft1991
    replied
    Was pumped to get my new Perfect Pass up and running—but that’s where the excitement ended. Gremlins attacked immediately and never stopped.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

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