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  • Sundeck actuator went bad

    Well, I've been anticipating this for a while but the actuator that raises the sundeck on my '00 230 VRS is now not functioning.

    It trips the breaker at the switch. I checked voltage at the connector and everything is fine. Tried applying battery voltage right to the actuator and it doesn't spin.

    I started to disassemble it and there was water in there. This isn't surprising either since the previous owner let rain water accumulate in the hull which was probably over the actuator motor. I've steadily been having to replace all electrical components that were below that water line (Starter, blower, etc.).

    I started dissecting it further and the worm drive assembly appears to be fine. I can't get the lower half apart until I get my impact wrench back from a friend and a 1 1/8" deep socket. If the gears look ok then I will probably explore the option of having the motor rebuild at the local starter & alternator shop.

    I've also seen other references on here to miscellaneous aftermarket liner actuators so I might look into that.

    Lastly I may look at just putting in a couple of latches and a pair of strong gas shocks to assist in lifting it by hand. This seems like the simplest option but would probably involve some bracket fabrication and what not so I'm sure it would end up being somewhat complicated.

    Any other ideas?

    Thanks,
    Jeff

  • #2
    Originally posted by Jeff d View Post
    Well, I've been anticipating this for a while but the actuator that raises the sundeck on my '00 230 VRS is now not functioning.

    It trips the breaker at the switch. I checked voltage at the connector and everything is fine. Tried applying battery voltage right to the actuator and it doesn't spin.

    I started to disassemble it and there was water in there. This isn't surprising either since the previous owner let rain water accumulate in the hull which was probably over the actuator motor. I've steadily been having to replace all electrical components that were below that water line (Starter, blower, etc.).

    I started dissecting it further and the worm drive assembly appears to be fine. I can't get the lower half apart until I get my impact wrench back from a friend and a 1 1/8" deep socket. If the gears look ok then I will probably explore the option of having the motor rebuild at the local starter & alternator shop.

    I've also seen other references on here to miscellaneous aftermarket liner actuators so I might look into that.

    Lastly I may look at just putting in a couple of latches and a pair of strong gas shocks to assist in lifting it by hand. This seems like the simplest option but would probably involve some bracket fabrication and what not so I'm sure it would end up being somewhat complicated.

    Any other ideas?

    Thanks,
    Jeff
    I'd have the motor rebuilt. Gas shocks could allow the sun deck to be sucked open if you trailer is at high speeds without a cover. If you always use a cover, it's a moot point.

    Comment


    • #3
      Oh, if I switch it to a manual lift i'd put at least one latch on the front. Maybe something like this:
      http://tacomarine.com/cat--Sundeck-L...eck_latch.html

      Comment


      • #4
        My I/O had an actuator on the sunpad, it was a PITA. The "wow" factor was cool, but it was way too slow. I was the only one who could find the switches. I replaced it with two gas struts, much better now.

        Comment


        • #5
          I've got gas shocks and a latch in my 99. The latch is just like this:
          http://greatlakesskipper.com/product...pull-cord.html

          I always thought the auto-open thing was cool until I was in a boat with one. It was slow and annoying enough to keep you from stowing anything you might actually need back there.
          __________
          Kirk

          1994 Prostar 205
          1999 Prostar 205V

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by kdr View Post
            I've got gas shocks and a latch in my 99. The latch is just like this:
            http://greatlakesskipper.com/product...pull-cord.html
            I discovered that style of latch last night. Definitely an easier install than one that protrudes through the vinyl. I was envisioning one of the kids slamming it closed with the strap below the cover though. I'd have to figure out how to sew in a strap over this strap that would prevent that.

            What weight gas shocks did you go with? The stock one is a single 20 lb. Definitely not enough but 2 of those might do the job. I don't want to put some that are too strong and make it hard to close.

            Comment


            • #7
              Noticed some actuators for sale that might (or might not) be replacements:
              American Science and Surplus

              If the link doesn't work, go to http://sciplus.com and search for "actuator"

              /frank
              1998 Maristar 200VRS

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Jeff d View Post
                I discovered that style of latch last night. Definitely an easier install than one that protrudes through the vinyl. I was envisioning one of the kids slamming it closed with the strap below the cover though. I'd have to figure out how to sew in a strap over this strap that would prevent that.

                What weight gas shocks did you go with? The stock one is a single 20 lb. Definitely not enough but 2 of those might do the job. I don't want to put some that are too strong and make it hard to close.
                I bought the boat with the gas shocks already installed and the stickers have faded so bad that I can't tell how strong they are. They do have a 30" extended length.

                I have had the boat for about 4 years now and I have never closed the hatch on the pull strap. Not saying it can't happen, but it is not much of a concern for me.

                Here are some pics of my setup:



                Last edited by kdr; 11-30-2010, 11:07 AM.
                __________
                Kirk

                1994 Prostar 205
                1999 Prostar 205V

                Comment


                • #9
                  Jeff d, how did you get the hatch open if the actuator failed? I have always worried about mine failing ('99 Maristar) and having to get in to the hatch to replace it.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by mdskier View Post
                    Jeff d, how did you get the hatch open if the actuator failed? I have always worried about mine failing ('99 Maristar) and having to get in to the hatch to replace it.
                    To open the hatch after acutator failure, take it apart at the hinges...I don't know what Mastercraft originally had back there (rivets, I think - they were drilled out) but I now have machine screws attaching the hinge to the boat, they are not very easy to remove, but definitely doable.
                    I will probably try to replace these with the pull-pins similar to what is securing your swim platform.

                    David

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I actually store mine with the rear hatch open about 3-4" to keep the engine compartment ventilated. So, it failed with it open enough that I could get in there and pull the pin.

                      Maristar Man had an interesting setup with a strap that could pull the pin in the event of an actuator failure in the closed position in one of his other posts.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by kdr View Post
                        I have had the boat for about 4 years now and I have never closed the hatch on the pull strap. Not saying it can't happen, but it is not much of a concern for me.]
                        I didn't have a good mental picture of how it would install. That metal bracket looks like it would keep the strap where it needs to be under most circumstances.

                        Thanks for the pictures. I'm strongly considering going that route.

                        I would convert it to 3 piece in and ideal world but that would be a lot more involved.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Jeff d View Post
                          I didn't have a good mental picture of how it would install. That metal bracket looks like it would keep the strap where it needs to be under most circumstances.

                          Thanks for the pictures. I'm strongly considering going that route.

                          I would convert it to 3 piece in and ideal world but that would be a lot more involved.
                          Well, it doesn't look like those latches typically include that strap "keeper" that KDR shows in his pics. Is this a MasterCraft part?

                          Thanks,
                          Jeff

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Here's the Emergency strap I made...

                            I used some of the extra webbing I had left over for the Bimini. I wanted to make a simple, works-every-time, release in case of emergency.

                            After measuring, I sewed both sides of the straps and burned the ends. Yes my sewing skills are fleating...lol!



                            In the middle of the strap I have about 2" doubled over and sewn with one thread. This will break when pulled and give me the extra length to pull the end of the strap which is sewn into sunpad edge.



                            Here is the Strap, which i can access by cutting a few threads...
                            I have subsequently colored the white thread black.



                            I have more webbing available if anyone wants some... PM me

                            I do however, like the sun-pad latches I have seen on this thread. It does take too long when on the water and people want to get into the cooler back there...
                            Last edited by MariStar-Man; 11-30-2010, 09:08 PM.
                            1999 MasterCraft Maristar, V210, 330 Hp LTR
                            Mods: Upgraded Stereo, Amp, 6 Disk Changer, Zero-Flex Tower, Custom Fit Bimini Top, and of course...Teak Oil!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              KDR, are the pics you're posting from your '99 205V that you have listed in you profile? Do you know if that was the factory setup?

                              I found this on mymastercraft:
                              http://mymastercraft.com/product_det...oduct=Brackets

                              It's described as "LATCH SUNDECK KEEPER PS 205V 99". I emailed them for further clarification on what the part is but it sounds promising.

                              Aside from reliability and speed removing the actuator would make access to the port side of the engine much easier too. I avoid messing with that side whenever possible because I have to find something to prop the deck up with and remove my actuator to flip down that partition. It will also be better when I get larger ballast bags back there because I won't have to worry about them rubbing on the actuator.

                              With the exception of the "bling" factor when I take n00bs out on my boat the only other advantage I can think of is that it's easy to open it partially for storage. I'd have to setup a strap to hold it at about 3" open.

                              Comment

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