Is there somewhere online that I can get the stainless "wood screws" that hold the floor panels in place? When taking my floor and a few other things apart there seems to be a short and long size on these. It also seems that pretty much every other one is stripped out. Is there a good way of fixing that? I was thinking maybe fill the hole with a two part epoxy and when it dries use a small drill for a pilot hole and then screwing the new screw in? Anyone with experience fixing and replacing these? I know they really aren't a big deal and everything pretty much stays in place without them but it bugs me.
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New floor screws and repairing stripped holes
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IMO - if you have a stripped out hole - you should use epoxy but you should also use something with structure.
My personal favorite is plastic dowel of the appropriate size, scuffed up and crammed into the hole with the epoxy - you then drill/insert your wood screw.
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I used fiberglass and a golf tee to pack the holes good and tight several times to fill them good but I already had the carpet out and floor scraped clean so not sure this is the best option for you.. I got the screws at Menards and Lowes pretty easy to find at most local hardware stores also got new washers for some of the ones that were warped out of shape.
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If you first mix up a batch of epoxy resin 50/50 with mineral spirits you create a product similar to Rot Doctor. Use a dropper or similar device to force that into the holes. The thinned epoxy will be pulled into every crack and crevice to form a solid bond. Once that cures then come back with epoxy mixed with either West Marine 403 or 404 fibers (or similar products) to produce a paste. That keeps a 50/50 mix of resin and material. Pack that into the holes and allow it to cure. You will have a totally sealed repair. You can re-drill and install new screws.
I have found stainless steel screws at Lowes, Home Depot, and True Value.
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I use resins and mix it thick with this filler.
Mix this milled glass with any resin, body filler, or casting material to increase strength, bulk, and dimensional stability for parts. Milled glass helps reduce shrinkage and increase moduli for parts, so it's popular for electrical/automotive components. It is often used with vinyl ester resin as a corrosion-resistant, blister repair putty for deep boat hull damage (a ketchup consistency delivers best results). Both fiber length and bulk density are controlled by the screen size— 1 ⁄ 16 refers to the hole diameter of the hammermill screens used to mill the fibers, and lengths may vary up to this dimension. For similar properties, but smaller fibers, see the 1 ⁄ 32 Milled Glass Fiber, #38. This filler is compatible with epoxy, polyester, and vinyl ester resin systems. Add filler after adding catalyst to resin. Add fibers to resin 5% by weight.
These longer glass fibers are used to increase tensile and compressive properties of any resin, and even other traditional building materials including concrete. Fibers will strengthen castings and reinforce fillets in difficult-to-laminate areas of parts like edges and corners. Cut costs for processing, without compromising strength. Good color characteristics permit pigmentation or color matching to specification. Superior strand integrity resists generation of fuzz when used in feeding systems. Fabricators often add other fillers, like our #23 Silica, to resin in conjunction with chopped glass for handling. This filler is compatible with epoxy, polyester, and vinyl ester resin systems. Add filler after adding catalyst to resin. Mix ratio is 1:15 (filler to resin).-Tim
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