Prop ain't broke- but should I fix it?

[MarCraft1991]

I didn't want to threadjack another post-- but it may be even more annoying to move the discussion that came up there to a new thread. You guys set me straight on etiquette!

91 stock 351 regarding props and the "If it ain't broke don't fix it" rule: I see all sorts of discussions on here about what type of prop to get and what they each do.

But not so much on when/why to get one. If I've got my [apparently stock] prop with no major nicks and it seems to pull just fine-- should I upgrade if I'm upgrading most everything else? Will there be a noticeable difference if I'm already impressed with how incredibly this thing pulls? Or are they for badass course skiers only?

I don't want to miss out on some amazing advances in prop tech over the last 30 years, but figured topping out (once a summer for whatever reason) at 43MPH and pulling some big folks without issue maybe I should leave it alone.

[waterlogged882]

I didn't want to threadjack another post-- but it may be even more annoying to move the discussion that came up there to a new thread. You guys set me straight on etiquette!

91 stock 351 regarding props and the "If it ain't broke don't fix it" rule: I see all sorts of discussions on here about what type of prop to get and what they each do.

But not so much on when/why to get one. If I've got my [apparently stock] prop with no major nicks and it seems to pull just fine-- should I upgrade if I'm upgrading most everything else? Will there be a noticeable difference if I'm already impressed with how incredibly this thing pulls? Or are they for badass course skiers only?

I don't want to miss out on some amazing advances in prop tech over the last 30 years, but figured topping out (once a summer for whatever reason) at 43MPH and pulling some big folks without issue maybe I should leave it alone.

I am an Acme prop guy so I'll tell you what I have experienced from the Acme 13 x 12 L 1 Bore .08 Cup 3-Blade. It is a far cry, better balanced than the OEM prop. It is a CNC finished prop and will take out a lot of vibration. The prop also gives performance on hole and top end without loss of RPM / MPH. Just an overall good upgrade and a good bang for the buck. You will get a noticeable difference all around.

When you install, there is a specific orientation because of the shaft taper and the prop hub taper. Lettering identification on the hub should face outward to the transom.

This prop is for any boat; pulling big ol' fat boys to slalom competitors. It gets the job done. Well worth the money, although I see where they have gone up in price. I used to get them from Nettles for US$350. Watch for a sale.

Wakemakers has them for US$359 now. That is a going price without the consumer gouge and will be hard to beat.

.

[dpb185]

I would think a modern prop would be worth it simply because of the change in prop manufacturing technology that occurred in the late 90's.

[Double D]

I second the Acme 541. I loved mine.

I am an Acme prop guy so I'll tell you what I have experienced from the Acme 13 x 12 L 1 Bore .08 Cup 3-Blade. It is a far cry, better balanced than the OEM prop. It is a CNC finished prop and will take out a lot of vibration. The prop also gives performance on hole and top end without loss of RPM / MPH. Just an overall good upgrade and a good bang for the buck. You will get a noticeable difference all around.

When you install, there is a specific orientation because of the shaft taper and the prop hub taper. Lettering identification on the hub should face outward to the transom.

This prop is for any boat; pulling big ol' fat boys to slalom competitors. It gets the job done. Well worth the money, although I see where they have gone up in price. I used to get them from Nettles for US$350. Watch for a sale.

Wakemakers has them for US$359 now. That is a going price without the consumer gouge and will be hard to beat.

.

[MarCraft1991]

Got it—I’ll add it back to the list. Thanks guys!