1998 Maristar 200 VRS project

[hig]

I just purchased a 1998 Maristar 200 VRS that need the motor rebuilt (spun bearings) and a good sprucing up. I currently have a 1996 Bayliner 120 h.p. outboard that I’ve had for years. As I get order and have a hard time losing the extra winter weight I put on it’s hard to get out of the water on my slalom ski behind the Bayliner. This is my first inboard so I have much to learn!

This years To Do list:

- Rebuild the 5.7 Corvette LT1 short block and resurface the aluminum heads

- Any maintenance/service that should be done while the motor is out of the boat (trans seals, raw water impeller) anything that would be easy to get at while the motor is out, advice needed!!

- Wet sand, buff and wax the boat

- Apply new decals – probably swap the Maristar with the Mastercraft on the sides

- Clean the vinyl interior and apply protectant

- Replace the rubber rub rail molding

- Replace the broken cup holders & worn grab handles

- Recover the “wood grain” dash bezel with 3M vinyl and install new shift knob & steering wheel

- Refinish the teak ski platform

- Clean and tighten the mooring cover


Future To Do list:

- Replace the carpet

- Add wakeboard tower











If anyone has any input (advice or a relevant threads) please post it and I will read up on it. I will try to ask and show progress in individual post in this thread.
I have a few other projects to finish up before I get fully committed to working on the boat so progress will be slow to begin with but I hope to get in in the water this summer.

Thanks and wish me luck!!
Steve

[FrankSchwab]

Good choice of boats!

I don't have any suggestions for further improvements; you seem to have them covered. I'll follow the thread, and feel free to ask any questions. I've done a lot of work on mine, and I can take pictures of things that you forget how to put back together

[SP Maristar]

I agree with Frank on hour choice of boats! We own the exact same boat in Polo Green. Find MaristarMan's post with tons of pictures. It was very helpful to me. Let me know if you need reference pics of anything. Our boat is bone stock and in great condition. Good luck!

[hig]

Good choice of boats!

I don't have any suggestions for further improvements; you seem to have them covered. I'll follow the thread, and feel free to ask any questions. I've done a lot of work on mine, and I can take pictures of things that you forget how to put back together

I agree with Frank on hour choice of boats! We own the exact same boat in Polo Green. Find MaristarMan's post with tons of pictures. It was very helpful to me. Let me know if you need reference pics of anything. Our boat is bone stock and in great condition. Good luck!

Thank you for the offers to answer question and sending reference pics, that will help a lot. I am a bit nervous because the motor was pulled out of the boat before I purchased it so I will definitely need some reference pics!!

I've saved these threads for future reference but I know there will be details I'll need.

LT-1 lets see some pics!

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=44942

Hogwild's Adventure

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=50918

There's a lot of good references in those 2 threads!!

MaristarMan's thread was one of the first ones I found, there's a lot of info there.

MariStar-Man's Chronicles with Tons of Pics

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=31944

I can't say that I've read the whole thing but I have scanned thru it a couple of times. One thing I did learn from his thread is to not put the trans in gear while it is out of the water because there is no lubrication on the prop shaft, I probably would not have thought of that.

I've also looked thru this one a few times,

The MariStar Thread

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=29467

I can't wait to start working on the boat!!

Thanks again, Steve

[FrankSchwab]

So, now that I have a few minutes, things to do:
1. Check the transmission cooler for leaks. You don't want to start dumping water into the pristine transmission fluid (you are going to change it, aren't you?
2. When you get the engine back in, I'd do a full propshaft alignment. Doc is attached.
3. You might want to do the fuel filler neck grounding modification. Doc is attached.
4. You can decide whether to run ATF or 15w-40 in the transmission, especially since you should go ahead and change the fluid at this point. The Indmar service note is attached.
5. When you do the propshaft alignment, I'd go ahead and change the packing. This is a good tutorial.
6. The LT1 marine thermostats (2) are special, and there's a specific method for "burping" the engine when you put everything back together. I don't have one, but you should be able to search and find it.
7. Check the prop and make sure it's in good shape.
8. Grease everything that needs greasing.
9. Check the steering - if you can't steer it on the trailer with a finger, you may want to consider putting in a new cable. If you can't steer it easily with one hand, you DEFINITELY should put on a new cable.
10. Check the fuel gauge. The fuel senders on this year have a tendency to fail. You can repair it (search for "fuel sender magnet"), or get a new one. I bought one from Wema, and am quite happy with the design and functioning.
11. Check the depth gauge - you won't be able to measure depth unless the boat is in the water, but you can check to verify that the puck is firmly epoxied to the hull. Oops, I just noticed in your picture that you have a clock where I have a depth gauge.
12. You need a good gelcoat restoration. I'd try compounding before wet sanding, but that's just me. This thread has a good overview of gel coat restoration.
13. Here's a good source for replacement panels for the dash. I bookmarked them long ago, but never actually bought anything.
14. The only issue I've run across on the boat is that passengers tend to hit the back of their head on the windshield when sitting. Warn your wife/gf.
15. Verify that the bilge pump works. If it sounds bad, replace it.
16. Verify that the blower works. If it sounds bad, replace it.

That should keep you busy until, say, the lakes freeze over again...

/frank

[FrankSchwab]

And, missed one additional bit of info. A bunch of things I've collected about the boat/trailer while doing maintenance. I don't think the engine stuff (oil filters, belts, etc) will help, but maybe.

/frank

And some pictures...

[SP Maristar]

Frank - you even appear to have the same depth finder as me! Haha

[hig]

So, now that I have a few minutes, things to do:
1. Check the transmission cooler for leaks. You don't want to start dumping water into the pristine transmission fluid (you are going to change it, aren't you?
2. When you get the engine back in, I'd do a full propshaft alignment. Doc is attached.
3. You might want to do the fuel filler neck grounding modification. Doc is attached.
4. You can decide whether to run ATF or 15w-40 in the transmission, especially since you should go ahead and change the fluid at this point. The Indmar service note is attached.
5. When you do the propshaft alignment, I'd go ahead and change the packing. This is a good tutorial.
6. The LT1 marine thermostats (2) are special, and there's a specific method for "burping" the engine when you put everything back together. I don't have one, but you should be able to search and find it.
7. Check the prop and make sure it's in good shape.
8. Grease everything that needs greasing.
9. Check the steering - if you can't steer it on the trailer with a finger, you may want to consider putting in a new cable. If you can't steer it easily with one hand, you DEFINITELY should put on a new cable.
10. Check the fuel gauge. The fuel senders on this year have a tendency to fail. You can repair it (search for "fuel sender magnet"), or get a new one. I bought one from Wema, and am quite happy with the design and functioning.
11. Check the depth gauge - you won't be able to measure depth unless the boat is in the water, but you can check to verify that the puck is firmly epoxied to the hull. Oops, I just noticed in your picture that you have a clock where I have a depth gauge.
12. You need a good gelcoat restoration. I'd try compounding before wet sanding, but that's just me. This thread has a good overview of gel coat restoration.
13. Here's a good source for replacement panels for the dash. I bookmarked them long ago, but never actually bought anything.
14. The only issue I've run across on the boat is that passengers tend to hit the back of their head on the windshield when sitting. Warn your wife/gf.
15. Verify that the bilge pump works. If it sounds bad, replace it.
16. Verify that the blower works. If it sounds bad, replace it.

That should keep you busy until, say, the lakes freeze over again...

/frank

Thanks Frank, that is a great maintenance To Do list!!

What is the best way to check the transmission cooler for leaks? Is it basically a tube heat exchanger?

I will read up on ATF vs. motor oil. How can I tell what transmission I have?



I will read thru the maintenance that you suggested and I know I will have more questions.

Thanks, Steve

[hig]

What is this?

What is this thing? It's inline before the transmission cooler?



Does it require maintenance? Should the bottom bowl be replaced?

Thanks, Steve

[hig]

Engine Progress

My boys and I finished stripped the motor down to send to the machine shop.





I will be dropping off the block, pistons & rods, crank and aluminum heads off tomorrow after work. I know I will have to have the block line bored, crank turned (hopefully salvageable), cylinders hones and heads resurfaced.

Hopefully this week I can start cleaning the boat up!!

[FrankSchwab]

That is an inline strainer - it's supposed to stop crap in the water from clogging up your transmission cooler. The bottom unscrews, the screen comes out, and you can empty whatever organic material has accumulated.

There's a tag on the transmission that identifies it - I think our boats have a 630v. Look at the backside of the transmission under the center rear seat (pull out the insert under the seat).

Checking the transmission cooler is a bit difficult - it's just a heat exchanger, so if you can pressurize one side or the other you can check for a leak.

[SP Maristar]

My trans sticker is nearly impossible to read but here it is.

[SP Maristar]

I don't have a strainer before my trans cooler but I used needle nose pliers to successfully remove grass and other debris from the inlet.

[hig]

Head gasket questions

I posted a question on the correct head gaskets to use in the Engine/Drive Train section if anyone is interested.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...334#post937334

Steve

[hig]

I was wondering what specialty tools are helpful while working on an inboard.

I will be test running the boat before I put it in the water, what is the best way to run it?

Should I just pull the raw water inlet line off and stick a garden hose in it?

Should I make something like this:



or should I buy something permanent like this:





Any suggestion on this or anything I should put on my wish list please let me know!!

Thanks, Steve