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1984 Stars and Stripes Restoration

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  • #31
    ive wonderd the same thing myself about the windshield
    1981 Mastercraft Stars and Stripes
    351 - Powerslot
    Photos

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    • #32
      ..........
      Last edited by waterlogged882; 09-12-2015, 06:55 PM.
      93 190
      (safe click)

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      • #33
        I also have the two piece brackets on my 85'.Two aluminum blocks bolt to the transom with four bolts each.The brackets are attached to the blocks with two bolts each.If you only take your platform off acouple times a year this set up is ideal,it's very sturdy but only takes a minute to remove.My 85 is the only S&S I have ever seen with these brackets,they came with the boat when when it was bought new.Mine are off the boat right now and are on the way to the powder coater.

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        • #34
          Please post some pics when you get them back. Curious. Tom

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          • #35
            Yesterday I ordered Fiberglass and Epoxy from Raka and Rub Rail from West Marine. Today I removed the second platform bracket, the rub rail, and the decals. I've figured out a way to save all that money for new decals... I'm pioneering the new look of blue on blue! It will be interesting to see how well this buffs out with the precision auto kit. BRN85ss are you doing a "two coat" powder coating? Heres a pic with the rub rail and decals gone.
            Attached Files

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            • #36
              Anyone able to tell me about the stickers? The round one was on both sides the letters and numbers on the passenger side only. Wondering if the gel coat will buff out enough or if I'll have to have some kind of replacement made.
              Attached Files

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              • #37
                Originally posted by dichdoc
                Anyone able to tell me about the stickers? The round one was on both sides the letters and numbers on the passenger side only. Wondering if the gel coat will buff out enough or if I'll have to have some kind of replacement made.

                Gus Campbell Watersports in Monroe Louisiana has a bunch of those round stickers in his display case.

                318-388-1259 I think they're $20 a peice

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                • #38
                  Check out Rambo Marine, they have everything there.

                  www.rambomarine.com
                  You don't have to buy a lake to own it~MasterCraft

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by dichdoc
                    Well, peer pressure is a *****! It's -20 today My sled was in 300 pieces and we have a five week old baby. Put the sled back together and the baby was napping so what the hell, lets tear the boat apart! Took two hours to strip her down. I believe it was original carpet (tucked up high on the sides,between hull and foam). I only pulled back the one side before I ran out of time. The Fiberglass floor on the sides of the motor has "bubbled" and pulled away from the foam underneath. There's probably four bubbles around one foot in diameter where you could push it down 1/4". Can anyone point me to a thread or tell me how to fix it? The carpet is laid under the angle iron that supports the motor. Will I need to pull all the lag bolts and raise the motor to lay carpet under again? I read a thread on rub rail replacement where it was stated to drill the rivets and replace with bolts and nuts. How do you access the nuts I seem to have foam everywhere under the rail. I'll post pics tomorrow Travis
                    I believe those 'bubbles' are where the flooring has delaminated from the stringers. My easy fix was reattaching the floor to the stingers w/ countersunk stainless steel screws. I snapped a stringline, predrilled the holes, dripped epoxy in the holes to bond between stringer and floor, then screwed about every 2-3 inches. The screws sort of dimple the floor & I 'floated' epoxy around each dimple to seal and conceal the screws. It made it really solid. If you search this issue, there are very helpful measurements from someone who tore his floor apart.

                    Don't pull the angle iron to remove the old carpet. Cut the carpet to the mount. I used indoor/outdoor carpet from Lowe's. JRandol and Mag Red detailed their install and Sporty was a great help, too.
                    Attached Files

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                    • #40
                      Removed windshield and dash today. Windshield was held down with two screws and about 12 machine screws. Has anyone had luck powder coating the windshield frame? Can you reuse the rubber? What should I use to replace the sticky black foam where it meets the gel coat? I spoke with Larry at Raka the other day and we formulated a plan for my floor. I'm going to cut the delaminated area out clean it all up replace the foam with new and reuse the floor sections, epoxy them back to the stringers and add a few screws. Then using 10 oz tape redo all the seams and I'm going to cover the Foam holes as well as I feel that is a place where water can get in. Thanks to everyone for your ongoing help! TB
                      Attached Files

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                      • #41
                        Any ideas for the dash panels? I saw a tip in a Rod & Custom magazine years ago where they used a drill press and some type of abrasive thing to make swirls on the metal. Any other ideas out there?
                        Attached Files

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                        • #42
                          Get it painted the same color as the boat when you get that far...? Have it chromed?
                          You don't have to buy a lake to own it~MasterCraft

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                          • #43
                            What you are refering to is called jeweling. It is very commonplace to do it to rifle bolts etc. It would look very trick. But it depends what look you are going for, the jeweled dash would take a LONG time to do, ie. to do one side of a ruger 10/22 bolt takes upwards of 30 minutes using that technique, and w/ the drill press method. I think it would be classy looking. Keep in mind that each movement of the material must be carefully monitered and precise as well as very small ie. a couple mm per time.

                            Check out the following link. It is a firearm related site so i hope no one takes offense. But it is an accurate description of the process. And you will need to make a jig to hold the piece still and allow the accurate movements required. Depending you may decide to make larger swirl marks, or make it more random, like the brushed aluminum you see around guages on speed boats etc. That's your choice...

                            http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=116961

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by dichdoc
                              Any ideas for the dash panels? I saw a tip in a Rod & Custom magazine years ago where they used a drill press and some type of abrasive thing to make swirls on the metal. Any other ideas out there?
                              Is that dash alunimum or alunimum colored plastic?
                              Mine was plastic with wood grain and it was cracking so I replaced it with 1/4 in. oak plywood with about 10 coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane.

                              If your is aluminum you may want to see it you can find a place to get it anodized locally, they can anodize in most any color. Paint is another choice, but it can chip easier.
                              It may be tough to get the swirl finish on it as it in the area of the bends if you go that way.

                              This is my oak dash.
                              Attached Files
                              Last edited by ski_king; 02-22-2006, 10:36 PM.
                              STARS AND STRIPES FOREVER

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                              • #45
                                I was thinking he'd do swirl up to a certain line, then he could polish the corners... you can get the jeweled surface to do all sorts of things w/ some patience.

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