1993 MC ProStar 205 w/LT-1 & Powerslot

[FiReDiVeR125]

Well this is the beginning of a long post for a restoration on a MasterCraft ProStar 205. This boat was, I believe #3 ProStar for 1993, let me know if I’m wrong here, but this boat was ordered with the LT-1 and the Velvet PowerSlot, also had the “Roll Bar” and the hot and cold shower. I will tell the story from what I know of the boat and how I got it. Here are a few pics for the reveal to show what we are starting with. I plan to ask lots of ???’s and will be looking for lots of parts, as I want to go as original as possible. Thanks and look forward to the help!!

[mikeg205]

Good god.. bring her back

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[MIskiboat]

Ouch. It’s unfortunate someone couldn’t at least spend 15 minutes and $20 to throw a tarp over it years ago before it got like that. Or even $150 for a crappy boat cover. Just guessing, don’t know the story.
If it you can get it running it will ski good though!
Love to watch a good Resto thread. Thanks for sharing.
Curious on the story.

[FiReDiVeR125]

SO here is the LONG story of what I know about the boat and how I got it. This boat was ordered by a contractor from some where in Illinois, from a MasterCraft dealer in or near Chicago. They also had a lake home near Lake Norfork, here in Mountain Home, Arkansas. The story I got was the boat was used for the first couple summers by the owners kids and they rode it hard and put it away wet.The boat supposedly sat at their lake home with the cover on it, after being serviced and winterized by one of MY family friends (which has been a well known boat mechanic in the area for years), but parked in the yard long enough for the cover to rot off. This led to the interior being destroyed, so the owner (this boat only had 1 owner, prior to me, is what I was told)got a covered boat storage and paid for it for years with ZERO use of the boat. The owner just gave the MC to the owner of the storage in exchange for paying the due rent for storage space. The boat had sat there for the past 8+ years, in the covered storage and had no use or care given to the boat or the trailer at all. The storage owner believes to may be more like 10+ years since the boat was last serviced and put away. For everyone asking what I have in the the boat to become the owner...............(drumroll) $400.00 and cut down a tree for the owner, since I own a tree service not a big deal at all.I figure adding both of those 2 things together, I have a total of $800.00 in it, to buy the boat and trailer, plus it had a barefoot boom in there too. Actually it was $799.49, because I found 2 quarters and a penny so far!
I will add the video of us getting the boat out in the sun for the first time, since it was parked. After airing up the tires and oiling the coupler, we slowly and carefully progressed about 4 miles to our house and parked the boat in the back yard, and me and the family got to give it a hand wash, got all of the garbage, junk, and falling apart pieces out of it. I also took the "Roll Bar" off- IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED IN The "Roll Bar" WITH all of the hardware and the rubber pieces, hit me up because I am NOT going to put it back on. I am actually going to fill the holes and have them glassed over, where it mounted, because I would rather have the real estate it took up.
I have been soaking the cylinders with a mix of "Sea-Foam Deep Creep" and "Sta-Bil Fogging Oil" and after about a week of soaking was able to get the motor to turn over manually (NOT using the starter), and have still been spraying this "blend" in the cylinders. I plan to get a battery this soon and try to crank it over with the starter, but i wanted to make sure everything was moving manually, prior to the electric cranking.
I pulled all the loose seat parts out and am trying to fugue out the best way to start the interior. Have a lot of ???'s here.
HOW SHOULD I GO ABOUT REMOVING THE OLD CARPET, and are there any tips or tricks to installing the new carpet.Recommend any particular carpet brand or type? Looks like a project here, but doable.
I pulled the fuel tank, and the pump. I am trying to find some part #'s for the fuel pump on the LT-1. I ordered new oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, and am putting all new hoses on the motor, fuel lines, and the exhaust. ANYONE HAVE ALL THE HOSE SIZES?
I am going to replace the fuel pump, not even going to try the old one, but this pump has one outlet and 2 inlets?? Kind of a weird way of running the fuel lines, any ideas. I believe there is a hose running from the tank, and it T's near the transmission. The T accepts a return line from engine to the tank, BUT there is an inline filter with pressure fittings on both ends (WIX part #33481) on the top rear of the motor. ON the 2nd INLET of the fuel pump there is another line that runs to a screw on type filter, located at the front of the motor, below the belt drive. I am considering removing this screw top filter and housing and just putting a 2nd in line filter at the tank. I am not sure I understand why the pump needs the 2nd inlet the ginormous 2nd fuel filter. I can get a fuel pump with one inlet for a lot less $$ at least what I have found so far, and I would think that a fuel filter at the tank and one at the engine, which is the way my buddies 1997 205 with the LT-1 that has this exact set up. ANYONE SEE A PROBLEM GOING THIS ROUTE AND SCRAPPING THE OLD SET UP?
I have removed the shower set up, because our lakes here are clean and we have never had a need for one before, so less to deal with and I see that as a plus.
The boat does have some scuffs and scrapes in the glass, but mostly on the bow section of the keel. I am feeling out a couple guys local that do this work, but I am not sure about how it will look after repair to match. SHOULD I WET SAND THIS BOAT AND GET IT BUFFED, AND IF SO SHOULD I DO THIS PRIOR TO OR AFTER GLASS REPAIRS ARE MADE?
I will make a post soon for some parts I am looking for and needing, but for now I am looking for part numbers and even places you may recommend to get the following parts. Fuel Pump, starter (I want to replace the huge one with a smaller gear reduction one), spark plug wire set, ignition switch, and maybe even the alternator.
I look forward to seeing what everyone has to say and what help is available in order to get this boat water ready and looking sharp again.

[FiReDiVeR125]

Here are some parts I know I will need, part #'s or places to get them, or even better than that if you know someone that has what i need, by all means PLEASE let me know. Thanks in advance.
I need:
high pressure fuel pump
Swim Platform brackets- Boat side & platform side
Swim Platform
Water Pump Impeller
Spark Plug Wire Set
Smaller Gear Reduced Starter (has the giant starter now)
Cup Holder/Vent for the engine cover
This is a few of the things I am looking for right now. Look forward to the responses.

[mikeg205]

If you have the space you may want to split deck from hull.

Be careful of glass, hard to replace

Fuel pump is here.

www.marinenginedepot.com part 52366517 high pressure pump.

Fuel line can be sourced at michigan motorz.con

The ignition system is from a cadillac northstar.

Fuel pressure regulator is available too.


U will probably need crank position sensors as well

Most of the interior is xmas tree pins and bolts.

Many links in general discussion section of this forum under library.

Looking forward to resto pics.

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[93Prostar190]

I applaud you it has a lot of potential!


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[Prostar 190]

Can't wait to see it coming back to life.

[ZR WON]

As someone who is (almost done) refurbishing a '98 30th, I look forward to this thread! IMHO, the exterior might not look too bad with a good hand washing

Brian A.
1998 Pro Star 190 30th

[FiReDiVeR125]

After hand wash, and getting all of the junk and trash out of the boat.

[JohnE]

Great project.

[Ski-me]

Wow that's a project! Great find though and hope you can get this thing up and running again!

[barneyferd]

Subscribed. Awesome find. You have so little into it, you have nothing to lose. Really looking forward to seeing your progress in bringing that beauty back to life!

[FiReDiVeR125]

If you have the space you may want to split deck from hull.

Be careful of glass, hard to replace

How does one go about splitting the top and bottom of the hull without damaging it and how big of a process is this? I assume the carpet would be 1000 times easier that way, but not sure its worth the trouble.

Please share your thoughts on the process and if you have any pictures or links to doing this, please share. Thanks again.

[waterlogged882]

How does one go about splitting the top and bottom of the hull without damaging it and how big of a process is this? I assume the carpet would be 1000 times easier that way, but not sure its worth the trouble.

Please share your thoughts on the process and if you have any pictures or links to doing this, please share. Thanks again.

Splitting is easy. Remove the center piece from the rub rail and drill the rivet heads off then punch them through.

Lifting and removing takes a little planning and ingenuity but any form of lifting the deck for removal has multiple approaches. I have seen home made gantries, fork lifts, overhead hoists, car lifts, etc.

But I think to your point, once you get the deck / hull separated you only need to lift it a little to get the integrated deck pieces off of the floor a few inches. No need to completely remove the deck unless you are set on it. In that case, there are pinned wire connections that unplug (like a trailer light connection) which allows you to disconnect the wiring harness and remove the deck without a major wiring catastrophe...actually quite simple.

The next question's answer is this; if you don't remove the deck entirely, it is not too hard to still replace the carpet but certainly a very tight squeeze in a lot of places up front. However a lot of carpet installs are only to the point of under the dash or at the foot rest area and a lot of installers cut the OEM carpet there and leave it in place (typically unseen). I have done it several times but also did not care if it ended that way. Once it is all back together, you'll never see it. On the other side of the coin, if the deck is removed, you can replace every bit of the carpet with little if any constraints. Your call there. I think it is worth the trouble if you have an easy way to make the lift (front and rear) and a place to set the deck. Makes life much easier all around. For your project, I would think removing the deck will also make other tasks much simpler. Makes transom work easier too. I vote remove it mainly because it is the 205 model. The closed bows are a little different for consideration.

That said, you will then want to reinstall the rub rail but before you do, run a bead of silicone sealant around the deck/hull and get a good seal on it. I doubt you will find that as you take it apart.

$0.02

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