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1980 S&S Restoration and Modernization

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  • Originally posted by jtryon View Post
    curious why you didn't slightly modernize and go seadek-style EVA?
    To look right, this would require the floor and hull sides to be bodyworked smooth and gelcoated. Rough estimate of a couple hundred hours of work and a lot of additional weight of glass and filler since the hull sides are very rough from factory glass layup over a wood core.

    The construction of a modern boat typically integrates a fiberglass floor into the deck mold, so it comes out of the mold smooth and shiny. Seadek, Deckadence or snap-in carpet then becomes a possibility. This construction also hides the hull sides.

    On the contrary, in 1980 there was a plywood floor glassed to the wooden stringers and hull. Carpet seemed like the most efficient option to me.

    Hope this helps.

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    • didn't even think of that, makes sense!

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      • The bulk of the carpet is glued down (still need to finish the edges), which allowed me to fit the center panels. They will be carpeted next.

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        Had a few of the kids’ buddies (teenage energy and muscles) over for pizza and got the deck set on. Lots of fitting and alignment left to do, but it’s in place. This feels like a pretty big milestone which will allow several next steps to begin in earnest.

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        • I really really like the new up front space. You did a great job on that.

          .
          93 190
          (safe click)

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          • Looking good! Nice work.

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            • Looks outstanding! Many hands lighten the load and those hands are fueled by pizza!
              Screws fall out all the time, the world is an imperfect place.

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              • So amazing!
                Hello, my name Ryan!

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                • It’s lake season. Prioritization means progress slows!

                  I finally got the top fit well enough that I’m ready to start riveting it on solid and then install the rub rail.

                  The tip of the bow on both the hull and the deck were destroyed when I got the boat, and when I rebuilt them everything got thicker. This required some grinding, using tape to find the areas of interference, and ultimately buying a cheap-o mini belt sander from Harbor Freight. $25 well spent.


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                  • That last picture, with palm down, nose tight, says it all. Feeling of accomplishment mired with the end of what was probably a feeling of being frustrated as $hit.

                    Love the update! Boat is looking amazing.

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                    • The deck is now secured with a 3/16” diameter rivet every 6” (total of 88 rivets). I also cleaned up a bit of gelcoat blemish and polished it so I could install the rub rail soon.

                      I masked the hull and siliconed the gap. I think all the time spent fitting things really paid off. The deck pulled in pretty tight, and it took about a half tube of silicone to get it sealed up nicely. I’ll let this cure and, at some point, get going on the rub rail…

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                      • Amazing results on this project, and the colors on this rig are just awesome. Great work!
                        13 Super Air Nautique 230
                        03 Super Air Nautique TE 210 - Sold
                        88 Mastercraft TriStar 220 - Sold

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                        • Looking good. I do have a question in the photo it looks like you used oval head rivets under the rub rail. I had to use counter sunk rivets under the rub rail with a small chamfer on the hole so the rivet head would lay flat and not hold the rub rail off the hull and oval head rivets went threw the rub rail.
                          Your rub rail may be different.

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                          • Originally posted by RDahler View Post
                            Looking good. I do have a question in the photo it looks like you used oval head rivets under the rub rail. I had to use counter sunk rivets under the rub rail with a small chamfer on the hole so the rivet head would lay flat and not hold the rub rail off the hull and oval head rivets went threw the rub rail.
                            Your rub rail may be different.
                            You’re seeing it right and I’m hoping it’s not going to be a problem!

                            The first batch of rivets I bought, which were pretty high strength, had a very high domed head. The batch I installed have a very shallow dome (but aren’t flush) and the rub rail seems to fit over them without any gaps, but I am still a bit concerned I could need to rework this.

                            I’ll know more once I have extra hands to help me get the rub rail in place and can get a few fasteners on it to check. If these rivets needs redone, it shouldn’t be too big of a job… just a slight delay. Not like I haven’t already redone a bunch of stuff on this project!

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                            • I under stand the redo thing. I looked at my list of parts I used on my 94 190 3/16 Aluminum Flush - Mount with Aluminum Mandrel blind rivets (McMaster Carr) and 3/16 Aluminum Domed Head with Aluminum mandrel High- Strength (Hanson Rivet Co)
                              It seamed like project moves along a lot faster after the rub rail goes on.

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