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1994 Protour 190 Restoration

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  • RDahler
    replied
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1119.jpg Views:	0 Size:	122.5 KB ID:	2695627 1991-1994 Prostar 190 rub rail replacement.
    Removal photo is of the tools used to remove old insert and rub rail. This is the easy part remove aluminum cap that is over the rub rail on the rear of the hull. Pry the insert end out and pull it out all the way around. Using a #12 drill bit drill just threw the center of heads of the 125 rivets(they do make a tool that will hold the drill in the center of the rivet) that hold the rub rail on.Using a punch snap the heads and tap out the buck tails with small punch.

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  • RDahler
    replied
    Originally posted by lmunson View Post
    As always looks great. I just replaced the rubber and used bolts instead of rivets so I could come back if needed. Thanks for the eBay lead. Could you include a link as I was not able to find the listing. I was thinking of a Mastercraft badge on the dash but there is already 7 MasterCraft decals around, so if someones confused about the manufacture one mores not going to help. You said there was never a radio. What was in that location and did you have speakers. I've debated fabricating a light weight tower attached at the T top mounts. Not for wake boarding but for carrying a sun shade. I don't like the idea of adding a bunch of holes and rods used in the standard aftermarket kits. What are you thinking?
    That is correct no radio installed from the factory the radio flip up cover is there with a small plastic compartment behind it. and speaker holes not cut in the vinyl.
    I am with you on the sun shade do not like the standard aftermarket kits. I did see one that was attached to the front of ski pylon by two 1" aluminum poles that held up a rectangular frame with a fabric covering it looked like something you would see on a center console boat that looked good to me but I do not think it is available any more.

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  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by lmunson View Post
    As always looks great. I just replaced the rubber and used bolts instead of rivets so I could come back if needed. Thanks for the eBay lead. Could you include a link as I was not able to find the listing. I was thinking of a Mastercraft badge on the dash but there is already 7 MasterCraft decals around, so if someones confused about the manufacture one mores not going to help. You said there was never a radio. What was in that location and did you have speakers. I've debated fabricating a light weight tower attached at the T top mounts. Not for wake boarding but for carrying a sun shade. I don't like the idea of adding a bunch of holes and rods used in the standard aftermarket kits. What are you thinking?
    The dash panels vary from year to year. For example, I know there are two different ones for the 93 year make. Other year makes in the fourth generation are different. Merely a word of caution when shopping.

    This guy makes the panels for the switches. I have gotten several from him. Great guy to work with.

    Also have a look here.

    Also ping TT member gweaver and see what he has to offer.

    You have cutouts for speakers (fourth gen boats) that are covered with vinyl. Will be four holes in the gunnel storage panels (2 each). I have no idea what boat you have (not displayed in anyone's profile since the new format (an easy fix)).

    .

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  • lmunson
    replied
    Oh I found this sometime ago. If your interested in refurbishing your old gages http://www.kocianinstruments.com

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  • lmunson
    replied
    As always looks great. I just replaced the rubber and used bolts instead of rivets so I could come back if needed. Thanks for the eBay lead. Could you include a link as I was not able to find the listing. I was thinking of a Mastercraft badge on the dash but there is already 7 MasterCraft decals around, so if someones confused about the manufacture one mores not going to help. You said there was never a radio. What was in that location and did you have speakers. I've debated fabricating a light weight tower attached at the T top mounts. Not for wake boarding but for carrying a sun shade. I don't like the idea of adding a bunch of holes and rods used in the standard aftermarket kits. What are you thinking?

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Looks great. Thank you.

    I patiently await.

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • RDahler
    replied
    Originally posted by waterlogged882 View Post
    Where did the joints (of the three sticks you bought), land? Curious as to the joint configuration. I ask, compared to the one piece semi-rigid kit I have. Thank you.

    That rail looks good.

    .
    The joints are located on each side 1" in front of the front cup holders and one in the center of the back of the boat. This was flat out a three man job that I did by my self I am working on a post that will show how I was able to pull that off from start to finish. Click image for larger version

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  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by RDahler View Post
    The new Rub Rail
    Where did the joints (of the three sticks you bought), land? Curious as to the joint configuration. I ask, compared to the one piece semi-rigid kit I have. Thank you.

    That rail looks good.

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • RDahler
    replied
    The new Rub Rail Click image for larger version

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  • RDahler
    replied
    Originally posted by lmunson View Post
    Love the work. I have the exact same boat. Waiting to see what you did with the engine cover cup holder/vent. Also interested in how you deal with the dash center piece, seems kind of cheesy. I reinforced the broken corners with fiberglass and then custom made backer brackets and then through bolted with electric blue cup washer and ss bolts. Still haven't dealt with the rocker switch panel. Thanks for solving my gas fume issue never occurred to me it would be the pump seal.
    I am Glade to hear that you were able to solve the gas fume issue in your boat using some of the information from this post. The Engine cup holder and the dash center piece are definitely cheesy.
    There is a guy on Ebay selling a replacement rocker switch panel that is a direct replacement made out of aluminum and engraved.
    I just finished my rub rail installation I have been asked to post a very detailed description of the process for others that may want to take this on to know what was involved.

    Leave a comment:


  • lmunson
    replied
    Love the work. I have the exact same boat. Waiting to see what you did with the engine cover cup holder/vent. Also interested in how you deal with the dash center piece, seems kind of cheesy. I reinforced the broken corners with fiberglass and then custom made backer brackets and then through bolted with electric blue cup washer and ss bolts. Still haven't dealt with the rocker switch panel. Thanks for solving my gas fume issue never occurred to me it would be the pump seal.

    Leave a comment:


  • edwin
    replied
    Dang, incredible find on eBay. It's been a true pleasure to follow this build...can't wait to see the final product, and a vid of it on the water. Above all the rest, truly one of a kind!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by RDahler View Post
    Hinge Observer Seat 91-95 PS-190 Mastercraft # 560200 NLA
    After a lot of research Found the original Stanley 342 Pivot Hinges on Ebay
    My Hinges were a little loose in the pivots.
    Most excellent. I wish I could find a set of sliding mirror hinges as used on the 82 fold-down dash mirror. That seems to be the hen's tooth.

    Glad you found a set of seat back hinges. Every fellow should have a set of these in the spare parts bin.

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • RDahler
    replied
    Hinge Observer Seat 91-95 PS-190 Mastercraft # 560200 NLA
    After a lot of research Found the original Stanley 342 Pivot Hinges on Ebay
    My Hinges were a little loose in the pivots. Click image for larger version

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  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by RDahler View Post
    Resealed the joint between the deck and the hull.Taped above and bellow the joint I cut the tip on calk tube for a small hole 1/16" ran the bead along the joint smoothed it with finger and removed the tape before the silicone skinned over. I used one tube of silicone and one roll of tape.
    I have seen a bunch of the older models leak along the joint.

    Looks good.

    Thank you for the goods. I really appreciate it. I owe you a Coke. Travis was a really nice guy and his mom is just a peach.

    .

    Leave a comment:

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