1994 Protour 190 Restoration

[brucemac]

Loving it. Golf tee idea is genius.

[Ironhorse]

Anyone else feel the need to go wax their bilge?

Hahaha I was thinking the same thing!

[RDahler]

I worked on the rudder last night the biggest challenge was moving the hull back about 6 inches on the trailer so I could slide rudder in to the port. I ended up wrapping a strap around the pylon mount and lifting the hull a little with the chain hoist so I could reposition on the trailer.

I got to pull out a few golf tee's as I started installing the countersunk rivets that go under the rub rail.
I used a short peace of rubber tubing to hold the backer washers as I set the Rivets here are some photos of the rivet job.

[Jeffer]

Wish I had even 1/2 your shop tools...

[CantRepeat]

I worked on the rudder last night the biggest challenge was moving the hull back about 6 inches on the trailer so I could slide rudder in to the port. I ended up wrapping a strap around the pylon mount and lifting the hull a little with the chain hoist so I could reposition on the trailer.

I got to pull out a few golf tee's as I started installing the countersunk rivets that go under the rub rail.
I used a short peace of rubber tubing to hold the backer washers as I set the Rivets here are some photos of the rivet job.

I would have gone with SS nylock nuts on the rudder port.

Great restoration. What are the plans for the boat? Keep, sale??

[RDahler]

I would have gone with SS nylock nuts on the rudder port.

Great restoration. What are the plans for the boat? Keep, sale??

That is a good observation I sourced all new 316 marine grade Stainless Steel hardware over the entire project and could have used nylock nuts on the rudder port, strut and tracking fins. The reason I used standard nuts and lock washers has more to do with the guy under the boat trying to hold the rudder port and four large screws in position with fresh white 4200 sealant on it and at the same time I was putting a bead of black 4200 around the inserted bolts on the top side dropping the washers and lock washers and spinning the nuts down with my fingers to evenly hold the port in place. Using nylock nuts would have made this X10 times harder to assemble.

[barneyferd]

This boat was not this nice when it was new, I'm certain. Fantastic work, beautiful boat!

[CantRepeat]

That is a good observation I sourced all new 316 marine grade Stainless Steel hardware over the entire project and could have used nylock nuts on the rudder port, strut and tracking fins. The reason I used standard nuts and lock washers has more to do with the guy under the boat trying to hold the rudder port and four large screws in position with fresh white 4200 sealant on it and at the same time I was putting a bead of black 4200 around the inserted bolts on the top side dropping the washers and lock washers and spinning the nuts down with my fingers to evenly hold the port in place. Using nylock nuts would have made this X10 times harder to assemble.

For sure takes two people to do it.

[RDahler]

I guess it is time to start thinking about a new prop the boat came with the original 3 blade prop on it.
LT1 with power slot 11/8 tapered shaft.
looking at the prop manufacturers sights Acme 817 and Johnson OJ454-MF
I am looking for input on the best way to go.

[MIskiboat]

Yes. New CNC will be smooth and you should do it given where you are at in this project.

I like and have multiple good experiences w OJ props.

Others like and have food experience w ACME.

Kinda Ford vs Chevy there.

I can’t comment on which is best for powerslot. I’d go with whatever Eric at Oj says and move on….

[Jeffer]

I'll second that - OJ is great to work with, and will tell you exactly what is recommended. And you'll get a sticker and an OJ tee shirt if you order a prop from him. I don't have any Acme experience (other than old Roadrunner cartoons), and have just used OJ myself.
BTW I have a '96 Prostar 190 with powerslot, and Eric recommended a 13.7 x 17.5 LH MF Cup 1 1/8. Was Item code 454A-MF, for what it's worth. Just checked it, I replaced recently. Another cool note, if you want your old prop refurbed, he'll do that for free when you buy a new one. So good way to refurb your spare.

[bret]

And to throw in another opinion, I like the mid-range control and smoothness a 4 blade gives you.

Ask Rhob's opinion on the get up, he's done my boat with 3 blade and 4 blade, also driven both and mine is 1:1. I'd give you the 3 blade ACME I took off but you've got the slot.

[2RLAKE]

I have an OJ 4 blade 13x13 on my ‘93 and love it … soft wake
Acme is great to work with, and Eric at OJ simply goes above and beyond every single time …. Right in Knoxville and extremely helpful … give Eric a call and he will set you up

[WhiskeyTango]

For the 1980 I am working on, with a powerslot and some horsepower upgrades, I asked Eric if I could add some pitch for top end and still maintain a strong pull. He spec’d the 458 which is a 13.7 x 19.5.

If you walk him through your intended use, he’ll set you up.

[jayR]

RDahler
Is there some sealant used for the cap to hull connection? or is it just rivets. also, I assume the 2nd set of holes is for the rub rail mounting channel.