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1994 Protour 190 Restoration

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  • Love the work. I have the exact same boat. Waiting to see what you did with the engine cover cup holder/vent. Also interested in how you deal with the dash center piece, seems kind of cheesy. I reinforced the broken corners with fiberglass and then custom made backer brackets and then through bolted with electric blue cup washer and ss bolts. Still haven't dealt with the rocker switch panel. Thanks for solving my gas fume issue never occurred to me it would be the pump seal.

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    • Originally posted by lmunson View Post
      Love the work. I have the exact same boat. Waiting to see what you did with the engine cover cup holder/vent. Also interested in how you deal with the dash center piece, seems kind of cheesy. I reinforced the broken corners with fiberglass and then custom made backer brackets and then through bolted with electric blue cup washer and ss bolts. Still haven't dealt with the rocker switch panel. Thanks for solving my gas fume issue never occurred to me it would be the pump seal.
      I am Glade to hear that you were able to solve the gas fume issue in your boat using some of the information from this post. The Engine cup holder and the dash center piece are definitely cheesy.
      There is a guy on Ebay selling a replacement rocker switch panel that is a direct replacement made out of aluminum and engraved.
      I just finished my rub rail installation I have been asked to post a very detailed description of the process for others that may want to take this on to know what was involved.

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      • The new Rub Rail Click image for larger version

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        • Originally posted by RDahler View Post
          The new Rub Rail
          Where did the joints (of the three sticks you bought), land? Curious as to the joint configuration. I ask, compared to the one piece semi-rigid kit I have. Thank you.

          That rail looks good.

          .
          93 190
          (safe click)

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          • Originally posted by waterlogged882 View Post
            Where did the joints (of the three sticks you bought), land? Curious as to the joint configuration. I ask, compared to the one piece semi-rigid kit I have. Thank you.

            That rail looks good.

            .
            The joints are located on each side 1" in front of the front cup holders and one in the center of the back of the boat. This was flat out a three man job that I did by my self I am working on a post that will show how I was able to pull that off from start to finish. Click image for larger version

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            • Looks great. Thank you.

              I patiently await.

              .
              93 190
              (safe click)

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              • As always looks great. I just replaced the rubber and used bolts instead of rivets so I could come back if needed. Thanks for the eBay lead. Could you include a link as I was not able to find the listing. I was thinking of a Mastercraft badge on the dash but there is already 7 MasterCraft decals around, so if someones confused about the manufacture one mores not going to help. You said there was never a radio. What was in that location and did you have speakers. I've debated fabricating a light weight tower attached at the T top mounts. Not for wake boarding but for carrying a sun shade. I don't like the idea of adding a bunch of holes and rods used in the standard aftermarket kits. What are you thinking?

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                • Oh I found this sometime ago. If your interested in refurbishing your old gages http://www.kocianinstruments.com

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                  • Originally posted by lmunson View Post
                    As always looks great. I just replaced the rubber and used bolts instead of rivets so I could come back if needed. Thanks for the eBay lead. Could you include a link as I was not able to find the listing. I was thinking of a Mastercraft badge on the dash but there is already 7 MasterCraft decals around, so if someones confused about the manufacture one mores not going to help. You said there was never a radio. What was in that location and did you have speakers. I've debated fabricating a light weight tower attached at the T top mounts. Not for wake boarding but for carrying a sun shade. I don't like the idea of adding a bunch of holes and rods used in the standard aftermarket kits. What are you thinking?
                    The dash panels vary from year to year. For example, I know there are two different ones for the 93 year make. Other year makes in the fourth generation are different. Merely a word of caution when shopping.

                    This guy makes the panels for the switches. I have gotten several from him. Great guy to work with.

                    Also have a look here.

                    Also ping TT member gweaver and see what he has to offer.

                    You have cutouts for speakers (fourth gen boats) that are covered with vinyl. Will be four holes in the gunnel storage panels (2 each). I have no idea what boat you have (not displayed in anyone's profile since the new format (an easy fix)).

                    .
                    93 190
                    (safe click)

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                    • Originally posted by lmunson View Post
                      As always looks great. I just replaced the rubber and used bolts instead of rivets so I could come back if needed. Thanks for the eBay lead. Could you include a link as I was not able to find the listing. I was thinking of a Mastercraft badge on the dash but there is already 7 MasterCraft decals around, so if someones confused about the manufacture one mores not going to help. You said there was never a radio. What was in that location and did you have speakers. I've debated fabricating a light weight tower attached at the T top mounts. Not for wake boarding but for carrying a sun shade. I don't like the idea of adding a bunch of holes and rods used in the standard aftermarket kits. What are you thinking?
                      That is correct no radio installed from the factory the radio flip up cover is there with a small plastic compartment behind it. and speaker holes not cut in the vinyl.
                      I am with you on the sun shade do not like the standard aftermarket kits. I did see one that was attached to the front of ski pylon by two 1" aluminum poles that held up a rectangular frame with a fabric covering it looked like something you would see on a center console boat that looked good to me but I do not think it is available any more.

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                      • Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1119.jpg Views:	0 Size:	122.5 KB ID:	2695627 1991-1994 Prostar 190 rub rail replacement.
                        Removal photo is of the tools used to remove old insert and rub rail. This is the easy part remove aluminum cap that is over the rub rail on the rear of the hull. Pry the insert end out and pull it out all the way around. Using a #12 drill bit drill just threw the center of heads of the 125 rivets(they do make a tool that will hold the drill in the center of the rivet) that hold the rub rail on.Using a punch snap the heads and tap out the buck tails with small punch.

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                        • Parts required 3 each Taco Marine V21-9517BKA20D 20' 1-1/4 Black Rigid Rub Rail, 1each V12-0303BKA50-1 50' feet black Vinyl Insert.(The best Place to order is from Pier Supply located in Sparta TN they are located in the same town as the Taco Marine Wear house)
                          150 each BAPI-06-10 Interlock High Strength Rivets Aluminum Rivet with Aluminum Mandrel. Order from the Hanson Rivet & Supply Co.
                          1PK 97447A071 3/16 X 1.075 extra long blind rivet you will need about 12 for the rear corners. McMaster Carr.
                          This is optional 1 Pk backer washers 90183A315 McMaster Carr. Click image for larger version

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                          • Install tools and jigs Click image for larger version

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                            • The First problem after unpacking the new rub rails I found that it requires a helper to move it with out damaging It. The solution to the problem was to buy a 10 foot section of 1-1/2" PVC pipe and slip it over the rub rail this allowed me to move it around with out the ends dragging on the ground.
                              The second problem I had to fabricate a jig to hold the rub rail in place so I could secure it to the hull.
                              the third problem the holes in the new rub rail are drilled every 6" in a perfect world they would have lined up. It looks like the original rub rail was not pre drilled and they did a eye ball 6" spacing.
                              I off set the Holes in the new rub rail and used a strap hole locator to drill new holes in the rub rail to match the original holes in the hull.
                              I also used backer washers on all of the rivets this makes the rivets less likely to pull loose on a dock strike.
                              I ran a line of blue tape and marked all of the existing rivets and holes and joint locations.
                              I heated up the rub rail with a heat gun to make it soft and just bent it around the corner it was easy to form when heated and secured it. The slot in the Rail will close up some in the bend the fix for this is to reheat the corner after all the rivets are in place and pull a six inch section of insert with a string on it in to the corner to reform the track width after it cools you can just pull it out.
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                              Last edited by RDahler; 12-11-2021, 08:52 AM.

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                              • more photos Click image for larger version

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