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1994 Protour 190 Restoration

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  • RDahler
    replied
    1994 Protour 190 Restoration

    Engine wiring harness removed all the old conduit and electrical tape cleaned and inspected.
    Resized and rerouted for a better engine fit. Removed dangling relays and fuse holders replaced with new custom PDM module and added larger alternator wiring for 70 amp upgrade. Installed new conduit and tape.
    Attached Files

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  • RDahler
    replied
    Originally posted by wtrskr View Post
    Thanks for the info. When I had my heads off I didn't check the springs, but would have if I had known how.

    I attempted to make sure my passages are clear by soaking in oil then powerwashing after that. The end result of soda blasting looks amazing.
    Here is a photo of the books I used for reference in the rework of the engine. The Corvette manual showed the most detail on the rework of the heads and block.
    Attached Files

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  • wtrskr
    replied
    Thanks for the info. When I had my heads off I didn't check the springs, but would have if I had known how.

    I attempted to make sure my passages are clear by soaking in oil then powerwashing after that. The end result of soda blasting looks amazing.

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by RDahler View Post
    Lets start with the springs the book specifications on valve closed pressure is 81-89 lb @ 1.78".
    The manual says to replace any spring that is under 81lb.
    I decided to replace 5 spring that fell under 84lb this is more in the center of the specification.
    I Tested them using a digital spring tester that prints The results.
    If you do not access to spring tester you could use a block of wood with a dowel drop the spring over the dowel as well as 84lb of weight throw out the springs that compress below 1.78"

    The valves and seats for most part were in good shape I did find some minor pitting on the face of three exhaust valves so they got replaced. I suspect this was caused over time by condensation that will form in side the top of the risers if you do not warm them up above 120 degrees before cutting the engine off it will drip down in the exhaust manifold and splatter on the exhaust valves.

    Soda Blasting I have a glass bead blaster at work it also has a soda blasting attachment.
    The problem with glass bead blasting internal engine parts made out of aluminum is the glass beads will embed the aluminum and work it way out over time in side the engine not good.
    Soda on the other hand will dissolve in water. So a good hot water rinse after soda blasting all traces are removed.
    Soda is also a lot softer than Glass beads and it does not erode or distort the aluminum parts.
    I have also used crushed / ground walnut shells as a media for blasting aluminum valve train covers.

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • RDahler
    replied
    Originally posted by wtrskr View Post
    RDahler, couple questions as I look back to the work you did on your heads. How/what did you look for when you inspected your valves/springs. Specifically, how did you determine that some of the springs needed to be replaced? What about soda blasting? Did you take the heads somewhere for that?
    Lets start with the springs the book specifications on valve closed pressure is 81-89 lb @ 1.78".
    The manual says to replace any spring that is under 81lb.
    I decided to replace 5 spring that fell under 84lb this is more in the center of the specification.
    I Tested them using a digital spring tester that prints The results.
    If you do not access to spring tester you could use a block of wood with a dowel drop the spring over the dowel as well as 84lb of weight throw out the springs that compress below 1.78"

    The valves and seats for most part were in good shape I did find some minor pitting on the face of three exhaust valves so they got replaced. I suspect this was caused over time by condensation that will form in side the top of the risers if you do not warm them up above 120 degrees before cutting the engine off it will drip down in the exhaust manifold and splatter on the exhaust valves.

    Soda Blasting I have a glass bead blaster at work it also has a soda blasting attachment.
    The problem with glass bead blasting internal engine parts made out of aluminum is the glass beads will embed the aluminum and work it way out over time in side the engine not good.
    Soda on the other hand will dissolve in water. So a good hot water rinse after soda blasting all traces are removed.
    Soda is also a lot softer than Glass beads and it does not erode or distort the aluminum parts.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by RDahler; 06-06-2021, 12:46 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • wtrskr
    replied
    RDahler, couple questions as I look back to the work you did on your heads. How/what did you look for when you inspected your valves/springs. Specifically, how did you determine that some of the springs needed to be replaced? What about soda blasting? Did you take the heads somewhere for that?

    Leave a comment:


  • bret
    replied
    I can put you in touch with a sheet metal guy in Little Rock, whom I'm almost positive he had the sundeck built, as he was the third owner of the limited and very good friends with the person that had #1 Limited. I have his number, will pass it along if you decide to get one. The sundeck is in my storage unit with the trailers so just let me know.

    Leave a comment:


  • RDahler
    replied
    Originally posted by bret View Post
    Love my T-Top but after about 3 weeks of going under it in both directions it comes off

    RDahler, let me know if you might want to entertain having a sundeck made when the boat goes to Viper. The side mounts do not interfere with the backseat, you're welcome to mine and take measurements, photos, or even take it home with you, again only if you want to have one made for the boat. I know it isn't OEM equipment for the Pro Tour but my wife likes it now and then.





    My old 94, so love your color scheme!!
    Bret thanks for the offer on using your sundeck as a pattern. I may take you up on it. I was looking at the one on Rhob88 205 the hard part would be coming up with the large honeycomb aluminum panel to make it from.
    As for the T-top I had one on my 88 190 never removed it and I had the boat over 10 years.

    Leave a comment:


  • bret
    replied
    Love my T-Top but after about 3 weeks of going under it in both directions it comes off

    RDahler, let me know if you might want to entertain having a sundeck made when the boat goes to Viper. The side mounts do not interfere with the backseat, you're welcome to mine and take measurements, photos, or even take it home with you, again only if you want to have one made for the boat. I know it isn't OEM equipment for the Pro Tour but my wife likes it now and then.





    My old 94, so love your color scheme!!

    Leave a comment:


  • RDahler
    replied
    Originally posted by MIskiboat View Post
    Great boat no doubt.
    Seems like it was an option bundle that had LT1 and T-top plus the unique pro tour sticker and the larger MC logo on the side?
    Mastercraft marketed it as a separate Boat that year and you are right it was just a loaded up Prostar 190. Here are the specifications.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • MIskiboat
    replied
    Great boat no doubt.
    Seems like it was an option bundle that had LT1 and T-top plus the unique pro tour sticker and the larger MC logo on the side?

    Leave a comment:


  • RDahler
    replied
    Mastercraft 1994 Protour 190
    This is the way Mastercraft describes it in there sales brochure.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • RxMC
    replied
    I see the boat says ProTour on it. How are the hull and engine different than the ProStar 190?

    Leave a comment:


  • edwin
    replied
    Truly impressive work...great thread, and thanks for documenting and sharing!

    Leave a comment:


  • 2RLAKE
    replied
    fantastic work ... can't wait to see this in the water

    Leave a comment:

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