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1994 Protour 190 Restoration

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  • MIskiboat
    replied
    ^^^. That will be better for sure. Still a little tricky. Nice work.

    Leave a comment:


  • RDahler
    replied
    Originally posted by MIskiboat View Post
    This is awesome.
    Suggest adding remote mount oil filter. The LT1 is not easy to change, as it is in the back right against the trans.
    I was feeling your pain the oil filter it had the large PF-1218 filter on it and the original splash/dust cover had a 1/4 inch lip bent out just right to collect the oil when you remove the filter and deposit inside the bell housing. I looked at adding a remote oil filter but there just not a good location for it.
    I bought a new Indmar splash/dust cover PN 535047 $15.38 from Inboard Online.
    I did the LT1 Mod cut the ear off the new cover with a band saw smoothed and painted the edge.
    Installed a new AC/Delco PF-454 filter the OD is smaller now so there is more than enough room to slide a plastic container up on the filter and no more oil in the bell housing.

    Problem Solved.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by RDahler; 06-02-2021, 04:34 PM.

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  • MIskiboat
    replied
    1994 Protour 190 Restoration

    This is awesome.
    Suggest adding remote mount oil filter. The LT1 is not easy to change, as it is in the back right against the trans.

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Nice work. Thanks for sharing and taking the time to post up here.

    Very interesting to see all of this come together.

    .

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  • RDahler
    replied
    Originally posted by bret View Post
    Did you take any pictures of the head resurfacing you completed, when you worked them back and forth for a FLAT surface?
    The Heads were a challenge I went old school and broke them down for inspection cleaning and rework. bagged and tagged each parts location so they would go back in the same spot. Soda blasted the heads inside and out. Inspected all the parts. replaced three exhaust valves , five weak springs and 16 valve seals.
    Aluminum Head do not get along very well with cast iron blocks they almost always come off a little warped over heating makes this worse, They measured .006 and the max is .004.
    I constructed a lapping table out of a 1/4 plate glass on top of a 3/4 mdf board with a wood frame to keep the glass in place. Used spray adhesive to secure the sand paper. I used three different grades of sand paper. I was able to deck the heads to less than .001 in all directions. Hand lapped all the valves and reassembled. Used a hand held vacuum pump and a small plate with a rubber gasket to pressure test each port.
    Attached Files

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  • bret
    replied
    Did you take any pictures of the head resurfacing you completed, when you worked them back and forth for a FLAT surface?

    Leave a comment:


  • RDahler
    replied
    Originally posted by waterlogged882 View Post
    Interesting and thank you for the note.

    So are you going to bore over or rebuild to stock?

    Do you happen to have a photo of the clogged water metering holes?

    This is good stuff right here.

    .

    .
    The engine was in very good shape for it's age. I just ball honed the cylinders they came out looking like new. I did not want to upset the factory balance on the rotating assembly I was able to buy a good used standard piston and rod assembly off the same year model corvette LT1 engine on ebay $30 this was a win made the decision to go back stock the best choice. I soda blasted the top's of the pistons and the ring groves to remove all traces of carbon this made them look like new.
    I removed the freeze plugs and cam bearings and power washed the block. I scraped all the scale from The inside of the water jacket and removed more impeller blade shards wedged between the cylinders.

    I did not take any pictures of the old head gaskets.

    Leave a comment:


  • 2RLAKE
    replied
    wow ... love this thread!!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by RDahler View Post
    The rings were intact as well as the broken ring land at first I did not notice it was broke. when I removed the compression rings the ring land just fell out. There was no scoring and the rest of the piston looked normal. The cylinders were standard I ran a Bore Gauge threw all the cylinders and they all fell with in OEM service specifications. I also checked the ring end gap it was in the middle of the spec. I think root cause of this broken ring land was caused by a over heat event and one of the compression rings end gaps expanded and touched. A contributing issue I found all the 1/4 inch water metering holes in the head gaskets were plugged with shards of old water pump Impeller blades. The LT1 might benefit from some kind of a strainer to trap the water impeller broken blades.
    Interesting and thank you for the note.

    So are you going to bore over or rebuild to stock?

    Do you happen to have a photo of the clogged water metering holes?

    This is good stuff right here.

    .

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • RDahler
    replied
    The rings were intact as well as the broken ring land at first I did not notice it was broke. when I removed the compression rings the ring land just fell out. There was no scoring and the rest of the piston looked normal. The cylinders were standard I ran a Bore Gauge threw all the cylinders and they all fell with in OEM service specifications. I also checked the ring end gap it was in the middle of the spec. I think root cause of this broken ring land was caused by a over heat event and one of the compression rings end gaps expanded and touched. A contributing issue I found all the 1/4 inch water metering holes in the head gaskets were plugged with shards of old water pump Impeller blades. The LT1 might benefit from some kind of a strainer to trap the water impeller broken blades.

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by RDahler View Post
    The engine only had 775 hours it would crank right up and appeared to be running properly. The plan was to do a leak down compression test and a visual inspection now that I had it out of the boat if it passes clean it up and repaint it.
    Things do not always go as planed it failed the compression test cylinder #1 was low.
    New plan take the engine apart and figure out what is causing the low compression on #1.
    Last photo tells the story (obviously). Wonder where the rest of the ring got off to?

    Are the walls in that cylinder scored?

    Is there a crack on the piston head?

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • RDahler
    replied
    1994 Protour 190 Restoration

    The engine only had 775 hours it would crank right up and appeared to be running properly. The plan was to do a leak down compression test and a visual inspection now that I had it out of the boat if it passes clean it up and repaint it.
    Things do not always go as planed it failed the compression test cylinder #1 was low.
    New plan take the engine apart and figure out what is causing the low compression on #1.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • RDahler
    replied
    Sounds like the end of pickup tube is to high in the sump, If it is made like my 1994 fuel cell with a rubber coupling and a pick up screen I would suspect the rubber coupling inside the fuel cell has detached from the pickup tube. The quick fix buy a new pickup up tube make sure to cut the length so that it is about 3/8 to 1/2 off the bottom of the sump when installed do a search on moeller marine replacement fuel pickup.

    Leave a comment:


  • mikeg205
    replied
    Originally posted by MIskiboat View Post
    The fuel tank is mislabeled. At least for our 94. Since the pickup is not on the bottom, there is approx 5 gallons you can’t really use. So that is really “E”.
    My 95 starts sputtering at 3/8s full. Even with a sump, the suction of the fuel pump, causes a vortex and boat runs like crap.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • RDahler
    replied
    1994 Protour 190 Restoration

    I hung plumb bobs on the front of the engine and rear of the transmission to mark the exact location of the engine. This will let me preset the engine and transmission mounts back to there original position or at least in the ball park.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

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