1994 Protour 190 Restoration

[waterlogged882]

Rocker switches? Link? New wire marine dot com is lacking. I think that is all.

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[waterlogged882]

Thank you Sir. I have studied the wiring in the photos and pretty much have it nailed down...just for following.

I told a buddy of mine this week that I am taking mine out of service for a season for a few improvements. New main engine seals, new floor covering and...

I like the entire wiring setup but am not 100% certain I am willing to put it in the pod. Certainly the most logical place but easy access is my concern, however, how often is a fellow in the dash, considering the auto reset fuses and the waterproof Deutsch connections. I think you identified the rocker switches earlier in the thread.

Thanks again for sharing and providing details along the way. I am an information hoarder.

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[RDahler]

Here is the Schematics that I used for the rewire of the dash pod.

[waterlogged882]

Chuck
The dash hood is attached with screws and three bolts threw the steering as noted in photo.

Got it. Thank you much. I passed this thread (link) on to another friend of mine that is not so deep into the mechanics of his 97 205. He too is impressed.

This photo is all I was waiting on to dig deeper. I hope your gauges (wiring) are not in the mess mine are (OEM). But you have the entire thing apart so that is an easy fix aside from a retro fit by reaching inside. That is why I want to remove the cover, for easy access.

Regards

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[RDahler]

Chuck
The dash hood is attached with screws and three bolts threw the steering as noted in photo.

[CantRepeat]

Here are some pictures of the electrical system I added connectors for the sub panel and the instrument panel so they can be removed for service,

Well designed and executed electrical wiring is a work of art. This is Picasso level stuff; very nice.

[waterlogged882]

The ignition switch I looked in to the push button setup. The after market ones do not work like the new cars were you push the button the engine computer cranks the engine. you have to hold the button until it cranks. I decided to stay with a new tried and true Cole Hersee m-712 key switch made in USA. This is the original part Mastercraft used that worked for 25 years.

Got it. Same here.

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[RDahler]

The ignition switch I looked in to the push button setup. The after market ones do not work like the new cars were you push the button the engine computer cranks the engine. you have to hold the button until it cranks. I decided to stay with a new tried and true Cole Hersee m-712 key switch made in USA. This is the original part Mastercraft used that worked for 25 years.

[bturner2]

I know I keep posting the same type of comments in this thread but I'll do it again. I've done some, what I consider "over the top" wiring improvements but this far surpasses anything I've done and is just so over the top in quality. Absolutely top notch. Just an incredible job.

[RDahler]

Impressive to say the least......icing on the cake.

Knowing what the dash and the OEM electrical mess looked like (in similar boats...mine included) before you redesigned this part of the build is the turning point....really nice. A work of art and craftsmanship. Get a clue right here MC...

Thanks for the photos. This could be my favorite step in the entire process you have documented.

I like the rocker switches.

I see you have removed the entire dash pod from the deck. How does that rascal mount (back) into the deck?

Are you putting back a keyed ignition switch? Push button?

I have learned from your project just how much more a fellow can accomplish by removing the deck and windshield early on.

And would you be willing to elaborate a little on the electrical fuse panels you have laid in there? Your version doesn't look anything like the OEM (spoken in a good way). Such an improvement. Looks great. Did you diagram this into a schematic for future reference?

1) Ground bus
2) Fuse box for 5 circuits - dash gauges? I see purple (hot) sheathing
3) Hot bus
4) Terminal block for dash to engine connections / ECM
5) Bundle going to engine / ECM
6) Bundle going to transom - fuel gauge, blower, stern light
7) What is the green wire going to ground...why green and grounding what?
8) ?
9) ? GPS puck?
10) Connectors going to the fuse panel - What kind / name of connectors and did you use a particular tool to terminate the pin(s) per wire?

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Chuck
I knew you would like the pictures and I am sure you looked at it more than once.
The first picture shows a close up of the TS1 I was able to use the original engine cable by cutting off the connector and crimping on new sealing ring terminals to protect the non plated copper conductor's in the original wire. the new wire was plated and did not need this. The second picture is FB1 this is the Ignition Buss from the key switch, the circuits are protected by 10 amp auto reset breakers. The third picture shows the connector location for the sub panel behind the 3 inch hole. The Green Wire going to the Gnd Buss is the fuel fill bonding wire.
#8 depth gauge sensor
#9 GPS ant connector for speedometer upgrade
#10 plugs P3 and P4 to instrument panel.

[brucemac]

Wow, very nice!!!

[waterlogged882]

Here are some pictures of the electrical system I added connectors for the sub panel and the instrument panel so they can be removed for service,

Impressive to say the least......icing on the cake.

Knowing what the dash and the OEM electrical mess looked like (in similar boats...mine included) before you redesigned this part of the build is the turning point....really nice. A work of art and craftsmanship. Get a clue right here MC...

Thanks for the photos. This could be my favorite step in the entire process you have documented.

I like the rocker switches.

I see you have removed the entire dash pod from the deck. How does that rascal mount (back) into the deck?

Are you putting back a keyed ignition switch? Push button?

I have learned from your project just how much more a fellow can accomplish by removing the deck and windshield early on.

And would you be willing to elaborate a little on the electrical fuse panels you have laid in there? Your version doesn't look anything like the OEM (spoken in a good way). Such an improvement. Looks great. Did you diagram this into a schematic for future reference?

1) Ground bus
2) Fuse box for 5 circuits - dash gauges? I see purple (hot) sheathing
3) Hot bus
4) Terminal block for dash to engine connections / ECM
5) Bundle going to engine / ECM
6) Bundle going to transom - fuel gauge, blower, stern light
7) What is the green wire going to ground...why green and grounding what?
8) ?
9) ? GPS puck?
10) Connectors going to the fuse panel - What kind / name of connectors and did you use a particular tool to terminate the pin(s) per wire?

.

[RDahler]

Here are some pictures of the electrical system I added connectors for the sub panel and the instrument panel so they can be removed for service,

[RDahler]

Moving the knock sensor out of the block isn't a good idea.

You are correct moving the Knock sensor out of the block or to far from is original location can change the way it works. Closer to heads more sensitive it will be and near the center of the block.
optimal. It has nothing to do with the water in the block other than plugging the hole. The sensor works like a microphone tuned to a small frequency range. When it detects the Knocking sound radiated from the block it will retard the timing to clear the Knocking. GM used this location on the early fuel injected engines later moved it away from the block drain. I moved it 1.5 inches forward and .750 inches up and screwed it back into the block this should make it a tad more sensitive if that.

[waterlogged882]

All the more closer. Thanks for the photos.

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