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  • Teakind
    replied
    Thanks for response, Fullpass. Sounds like the voice of many experiences.

    That's the way I will put it back together then. I did buy several of the thin washers from Indmar so I am all set.

    I know new pumps are inexpensive, waterlogged, and I have one in hand, but sometimes I like to dance with who brung me. For some reason I am driven to repair rather than to replace - can't change a tiger's stripes I guess. With a rebuilt original and the new one on standby, we should be covered.

    This old Prostar will be on the water in a couple hours - she has been a pleasure to own. I'm taking this boat with me when I go.

    Thanks again

    Leave a comment:


  • waterlogged882
    replied
    Originally posted by Fullpass View Post
    The Indmar advisory is correct...The brass washer goes between the impeller and main seal, should fit up into the brass housing a bit, out of the impellers way, think of brass washer as a splash shield, to help keep the impeller water pressure off the seal. People forget to put the brass washer back N by removing the impeller and not realizing a brass washer is stuck to the impeller, impeller gets discarded with the old brass washer. By the way the brass washer is pump specific, very thin, with a specific OD to fit correctly. You can buy them. maybe a buck fifty online.
    ...........I got one online for $156, impeller included, delivered right to the door. Plug and play but it's fun to rebuild as well.

    .
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Fullpass
    replied
    The Indmar advisory is correct...The brass washer goes between the impeller and main seal, should fit up into the brass housing a bit, out of the impellers way, think of brass washer as a splash shield, to help keep the impeller water pressure off the seal. People forget to put the brass washer back N by removing the impeller and not realizing a brass washer is stuck to the impeller, impeller gets discarded with the old brass washer. By the way the brass washer is pump specific, very thin, with a specific OD to fit correctly. You can buy them. maybe a buck fifty online.

    Leave a comment:


  • Teakind
    replied
    Hello,

    I know this is an old thread but I see many people still ask the same questions.

    I just pulled the RWP from my 1989 Indmar 351.... She has been a good one - no doubt. I ordered a new pump but as pbgbottle said in 2013, ".... to rebuild this pump is a piece of cake".

    However, when I took this 28 year old pump apart (first time), the impeller was followed by the seal, the brass washer, then the o-ring, from front to back. In the Indmar advisory SV2004-05 attached in this thread (and other places), in step 6 and 10 of the rebuild, it puts the brass washer between the impeller and the seal (in front of the o-ring).

    What have you guys done?

    I am sorry this keeps coming up but it seems to be a popular question on all boards.

    Thank you for any advice. Gotta get back out there.

    Leave a comment:


  • pbgbottle
    replied
    i just ordered a new one yesterday. so today while i wait for it to be shipped i took the old one apart .just wacked shaft, it slid out , didn't mess with pulling bearings. popped the side cover off the accessible bearing. threw some greae back in it .popped the side cover back on bearing.
    put the shaft on a piece of wood. put the body on the bearings put a piece of wood over the end and gave it a couple wacks and she slid home .no need for special tools .unless u are pulling the bearings from the shaft. there isn't much to these things .i wouldn't hesitate to ever rebuild one of these , theres nothing to them. no biggie. i most likely will find some bearings for this old one and keep it for a spare. no need to blow a couple hundred dollars. if ya can change a damper plate , or your old manifolds and risers . to rebuild this pump is a piece of cake.



    ,,,,,,,,,,,,,

    Leave a comment:


  • homer12
    replied
    Originally posted by CantRepeat View Post
    Might be some confusion here. I am suggesting that you DO use a softer metal if you are going to hammer the shaft out.
    That's correct. I agree with you. Need to use brass or something softer than stainless.

    Leave a comment:


  • CantRepeat
    replied
    Originally posted by homer12 View Post
    I agree with you guys on not using a brass or similar softer metal drift for shaft extraction. I will do differently in the future. For those without an arbor press, here's the method I used to put the shaft/bearings back in the housing. I used long bolts through the flange on the shaft and then used part of a harmonic balancer puller. I went slowly turning each bolt about a 1/4 turn each and pushed it back together nicely. We'll find out how successful this was when I get her out of storage and fired up.
    Might be some confusion here. I am suggesting that you DO use a softer metal if you are going to hammer the shaft out.

    Leave a comment:


  • homer12
    replied
    I agree with you guys on not using a brass or similar softer metal drift for shaft extraction. I will do differently in the future. For those without an arbor press, here's the method I used to put the shaft/bearings back in the housing. I used long bolts through the flange on the shaft and then used part of a harmonic balancer puller. I went slowly turning each bolt about a 1/4 turn each and pushed it back together nicely. We'll find out how successful this was when I get her out of storage and fired up.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Snipe
    replied
    Originally posted by CantRepeat View Post
    For future reference I would recommend a brass drift or punch if you are going to use the hammer method to extract the pump shaft. Using a softer metal drift will have a lesser chance to damage the shaft when compared to a SS drift.
    +1

    Leave a comment:


  • CantRepeat
    replied
    Originally posted by homer12 View Post
    I am in the processing of just doing the seal on mine. The bearings seem totally fine. I have the shaft and bearing out and was able to put the pump upside down in the bench vice with the flange on the housing against the vice and pound out the shaft. I used a hammer and a solid round piece of stainless I had about the same diameter as the shaft. Will post pics when I get done.
    For future reference I would recommend a brass drift or punch if you are going to use the hammer method to extract the pump shaft. Using a softer metal drift will have a lesser chance to damage the shaft when compared to a SS drift.

    Leave a comment:


  • homer12
    replied
    I am in the processing of just doing the seal on mine. The bearings seem totally fine. I have the shaft and bearing out and was able to put the pump upside down in the bench vice with the flange on the housing against the vice and pound out the shaft. I used a hammer and a solid round piece of stainless I had about the same diameter as the shaft. Will post pics when I get done.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • mikeg205
    replied
    Gotta go +1 on a new pump.... $250 - cheap insurance and piece of mind... $200ish if take the cost of impeller out.

    Plus it's new and shiny...lol

    Leave a comment:


  • GoneBoatN
    replied
    Funny, I've always wondered about this. I too figured it was easier and cheaper in the long run just to replace. Nice to know I'm not the only person on that bandwagon.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Snipe
    replied
    Originally posted by [email protected] View Post
    Don't waste your time. 3 hexhead screws and one at the base of the pump and you are done. A rebuild kit with a bearing kit is about $60

    No guarentee that it will work

    Just buy a new pump. A new impeller comes with it

    [email protected]
    I'm with Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • Chief
    replied
    After tearing mine out today, I think I will buy a new one. I have a small leak and as much as a pain it was to get it out, I'm not risking a rebuild!

    Leave a comment:

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