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Unfortunately its time to put the MC away for the winter, probably get out 1 more time just for a Fall Time cruz but that's it. My question- I have about 3/4 of a tank of gas left, no way I'll burn through it in a 2 or 3 hr putt around the lake for lunch or drinks. When I stored it last at my marina I thought they said bring it with a 1/4 tank of gas. I have heard people say, keep it full and stabilize all of it, I have also heard keep it 1/4 and stabilize that. Thoughts? It's winterized by the marina, wrapped and stored with them. Welcome the suggestions.
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I don't think it matters as long as you add enough Stabil or Seafoam for the quantity of fuel you have. There are those who say that the gasoline will absorb moisture over the winter. If you're worried about that then you can seal the fuel vent with electrical tape. (not a problem with an FI engine, as the fuel system is sealed
) I live in a dry climate and have never bothered. There seems to be a consensus that topping off the tank with premium gas in the spring is a good idea; why not? -
Whatever the level I use fresh, stabilized gas. I don't think you need to fill it. Your tank is plastic right ? It won't rust.Comment
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There's basically multiple generations of knowledge about this.
With plastic tanks I am in the school of thought of store them low on gas with it properly treated. Then come spring I get the boat going and so long as its running fine I dilute all that old gas with fresh gas and launch the boat.
I think the old school steel tanks used on boats back in the day should be filled to the brim and treated. And I'm in the school of thought to cap the vent if possible - which lots of shrink wrap jobs do for you anyway.
The only thing I would tell you is absolutely horrid is a full tank of untreated gas left to sit in the tank when you get to busy to use it and then its a 4 year old full tank of bad gas....Comment
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Temperature swings will create moisture in the tank from oxygen. Fill it , stabilize it . Course , I'm in Canada.If she don't shine , she ain't mine
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I stored my boat on it's lift all winter covered with a watertight roof overhead with heaters in the boat and my in tank fuel pumps rusted. These pictures in the attached thread (as hard as they are to look at) are of an 18-month old Millennium fuel pump that sat for 7 months (Nov. thru April) in Seattle over the winter with maybe 5 gallons of fuel in the tank. After consulting with many marine experts in the area, it was determined that because the fuel did not cover the two fuel cartridges in the fuel pump assembly and the tank breathes, rust formed on the outside of the fuel cartridge's metal casings. That rust got sucked through the fuel filters, pass the regulator, into the fuel rails and clogged 5 of my 8 injectors. I will never leave the tank less than 1/4 full. For the winter, it will be completely full of non-ethanol fuel and the correct amount of StayBil.
If you don't believe me, have a look at this thread. Again, it's not easy on the eyes. That's what leaving your plastic fuel tank almost empty for 7 months does in Seattle. Remember, my boat was completely out of the elements, covered with 4 heater / dehumidifiers running 24 /7.
https://teamtalk.mastercraft.com/for...nium-fuel-pumpLast edited by prostar205; 09-27-2022, 10:49 PM.2002, X30, L-18, Red Metal Flake (the possessed boat)Comment
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Heaters running? Dehumidifiers? Sea salt. Maybe you got water directly through the vent hole. I don't know what that's all about, probably your issue.
I'm not looking at that link, means nothing to me personally. I live in one of the worst places possible for storing motor vehicles with humid 100 degree summers to -35 in the winter. I have no heated storage. I store everything, sometimes for years at a time. Cars, snowmobiles, lawnmowers, boats, motorcycles, snowblowers, etc, all in an unattached, unheated garage. I've had vented, steel tanks partially filled for a couple of years that didn't rust. Maybe that's just not long enough?
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Well that didn't take long to devolve. Surprised it turned somewhat caustic in only 8 posts though.
I personally store full with treated gas but that's probably because I'm old and that's the way I was told to do many years ago. Never had a problem and I still do it this way today. From a personal experience perspective we had a jet ski at our place in Canada that we were not allowed to use for the last 3 seasons due to covid restrictions at the border (got to love the tracking app Can Arrive and all the freedom that destroys but that's another story). I stored that sled the same way I store the boat, full treated tank. Sold the jet ski in August as we're probably selling the cottage due to the whole mess at the boarder. The new owner said the gas smelled fresh and burned through the tank without any issues. Is that because I stored it right? Is it because it wasn't long enough for the gas to go bad? Couldn't say but I do know it certainly wouldn't appear based real and recent example that storing it full was an issue 3 years later.
In all honesty if you're just storing for 5 or 6 months it really shouldn't matter and I know people who do nothing and haven't had a problem. Unfortunately, like in my case sometimes stuff happens that is out of your control which can change that storage expectation. I think as long as you treat whatever is in the tank correctly you should be okay and I'm certainly not going to run someone down due to their personal experience or method of storing their boat.
Now that that's behind us, can we get to some real important winterization topics like.....- What is the correct weight oil to use?
- What is the best brand oil?
- Can I use full synthetic oil?
- Should I dry block or fill with antifreeze?
- What is the best wax?
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I filled mine to the brim so i have at least one tank of gas for next year .. who knows what the future brings... but prices will be up.. fill up ....Comment
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I believe the only way to remove moisture out of oxygen is to draw it down to 30 inches of vacuum and then moisture boils off.If she don't shine , she ain't mineComment
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Since you clearly have no boat ownership experience let me educate you. THE ONLY WAY to store your boat is on pillows. You lift the boat off the trailer then position some pillows, (any kind will do) between the boat and the trailer bunks. Make sure you have enough pillows to cover all the bunks, you don't want the boat to be uncomfortable through the winter. Then slowly lower the boat down. Some people will say to keep the stern up some will say have the bow up, but they are wrong. Perfectly level is the way to go. Extra points if you have soft music playing in the garage.Originally posted by bturner2 View PostWell that didn't take long to devolve. Surprised it turned somewhat caustic in only 8 posts though.
Now that that's behind us, can we get to some real important winterization topics like.....- What is the correct weight oil to use?
- What is the best brand oil?
- Can I use full synthetic oil?
- Should I dry block or fill with antifreeze?
- What is the best wax?
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^^^HAAAA!!!!^^^
I'd store anywhere from 1/4 - 3/4 tank and stabilize it and not worry about it. Get it running in spring and fill it and take it out for a few hours and run the heck out of it. A lot of people will fill it with super even if it doesn't take 91 octane as allegedly the octane level of the stored gas decreases with storage. (I have no scientific evidence of this, just hearsay.)Prior boats - (3) X14's, (3) Prostars, and a Tristar.Comment
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I can't profess to knowing all the answers to all of your questions, but this ones easy, no argument:Originally posted by bturner2 View Post[*]What is the best wax?[/LIST]
Bikini.
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