The hole is stripped? How are you keeping the sensor in place? If you're using some kind of cement or sealant, repair the hole and replace the sensor the right way- that's a necessary part of the system and if the ECM doesn't get signal from it, you could damage your engine. If you don't remove it and the water inside freezes, the block will crack.
Sorry guys- I didn't state that very well. The hole is good. It is where the wrench would go. It is getting channel locks tonight. I am guessing that I can just go to NAPA and tell them I need a knock sensor for a 93 LT-1?
Sorry guys- I didn't state that very well. The hole is good. It is where the wrench would go. It is getting channel locks tonight. I am guessing that I can just go to NAPA and tell them I need a knock sensor for a 93 LT-1?
Thanks guys- appreciate all the help!!
If you strip the paint off, you should see the part number laser etched into the metal.
7/8 just spun on it. Pretty rounded off. Put a channel locks on it and spun out pretty easy.
Have a really sharp kid at NAPA and I called him today. He was sure he had what I needed but wanted to see it so I will bring it in tomorrow and pick one up.
Now on to adding a garden hose connection and maybe moving the strainer. So hard to get the screen and cup back in when I need to clean it. Have a nasty area that I need to pass to get into dock so I clean it every few weeks to be sure.
Hey Gotta Ski... I agree. I have not done that either, they are expensive. I am not sure what the right interval is to update the checklist to. That said, thanks for finding a flaw with the checklist and complaining about it. Clearly the checklist is time proven and do no harm if you followed it to the letter. I am sure there are other things on there that are overkill too. That said many on here have contributed to it. Also, many have followed it with out any winterization damage and minimizing summer break downs.
I reviewed the instructions and blew through the 14 pages of comments. This is my second MC as my first one was a 78. I took a spare hose and a funnel and poured the anti-freeze right into the inlet line. But with the new 1995 PROSTAR 205 (new to me) the LT1 I see a stub hose right in the front. Not sure what this is so can someone post a pic?
Flip spring-loaded inlet on Flopro and install a short hose from coolant bucket or insert inlet hose
Also, Why does everyone change the oil in winter? Why not in spring? That way new oil is not festering all winter and you start with a fresh oil in spring? I always did it in the fall as long as the engine was warm it sucked out a lot easier. This motor appears to have a oil drain pigtail? Looks like I can just shove the pigtail out the hull drain under the engine, remove the cap and drain the oil right into a pan!? Wow thats awesome compared to the suck method.
Also, Why does everyone change the oil in winter? Why not in spring? That way new oil is not festering all winter and you start with a fresh oil in spring?
Because when running the engine contaminants get into the oil soot from combustion, moisture, particulate etc. You don't want that to fester in the engine all winter where it might be somewhat corrosive.
Comment