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Winterization of an LT1 - Checklist

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  • #16
    All new RV anti-freeze has been reformulated to not corrode aluminum...at least that's what they claim on their websites.
    sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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    • #17
      I've got an 2000 X-Star with the 310 hp engine, will all the part #'s be the same? Thanks!

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      • #18
        Jake,

        Thanks for doing this...was going to start my own when winterizing our 190 in a few weeks but since you started this already...

        I planned on running RV antifreeze thru the motor but if it is bad (new versions of anitfreeze included), then what is the best way to ensure I get all water out of the block? Hook up a small attachment to a shop vac once all water has drained out just to be sure or ???

        A buddy of mine used to winterize his 275 hp but all he did was pull off all the hoses and and remove any plugs where water would be trapped and that was it. He never had a problem with the blcok freezing but his method never seemed full proof.



        Mike-May be calling you over for a few beers when I winterize ours...

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Rockman View Post
          Jake,

          Thanks for doing this...was going to start my own when winterizing our 190 in a few weeks but since you started this already...

          I planned on running RV antifreeze thru the motor but if it is bad (new versions of anitfreeze included), then what is the best way to ensure I get all water out of the block? Hook up a small attachment to a shop vac once all water has drained out just to be sure or ???

          A buddy of mine used to winterize his 275 hp but all he did was pull off all the hoses and and remove any plugs where water would be trapped and that was it. He never had a problem with the blcok freezing but his method never seemed full proof.



          Mike-May be calling you over for a few beers when I winterize ours...
          Always open for a few beers - best way to drain is take out all hoses and drain plugs and take boat for a town on hilly roads... I do recommend spinning some antifreeze in water re-circulation pump...

          Too many friends with boats have to replace water pumps in spring 'cuz bearing was weeping - All it takes is a little water in the right place - especially if the boat will be stored outside..
          sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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          • #20
            Originally posted by JimN View Post
            What is included for $500?
            Change engine oil, change tranny oil, change impellar and blow out engine/heater/shower lines. I think that's about it. I don't think they fog the engine either.....
            - Jeff

            1994 205, LT1

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            • #21
              Originally posted by jakethebt View Post
              Everything that I can find say 20w50.

              Oil was about the last thing I figured we would be talking about after posting the winterization list... I guess you guys think the tasks, order, etc are ok?
              That's affirmative. I use the Valvoline racing 20W50 in mine.
              2003 ProStar 197, MCX and Powerslot.

              "When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty" - Thomas Jefferson
              "Freedom is beneficial to everyone equally" - Ron Paul
              15%'er

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              • #22
                Few comments:
                Don't fog thru the intake on a dry intake engine like the LT-1. If you must fog it, pull the sparkplugs and give each hole a shot and then crank the engine a couple times. I wouldn't bother fogging it.
                Personally I'd run the fuel low and then Stabilize what's left and run the engine to get the stabilized fuel thru the system. Non metallic fuel tanks I've never had condensation problems (sleds, boats, bikes, even in the moist northwest and midwest). No sense in having 30 gal of old boat gas to start the year out on.
                Engine oil, biggest debate ever, but I've used 15W40 diesel oil for years. Cheaper than synthetic racing oil.
                Whether you antifreeze the engine or not (I vote not), I'd drain everything first. Hoses, r/w pump, exh manifolds, block drains (1 knock sensor, 1 petcock,take the petcock out, don't just open it), heater, blow out and definately add some AF to it, shower, cant really blow out the pump, but I haven't had one freeze and break by just running it dry and disconnecting the hoses and draining them.
                You'd be surprised the amount of rust that comes out of the manifolds and possibly sand out of the block drains. If you get a solid stream out of each block drain for 20-30 sec?? it's drained. 50/50 on whether to just leave all the plugs out of the engine for the winter. Used to do that to allow it to dry out, but now I just button it back up right away.

                I also used to change the fuel filters, my PS LT-1 had 2. 1 by the engine and one on top of the tank, in the spring incase any fuel sat and gummed them up, but that was prolly just my OCD kicking in.
                '06 X2 MCX

                "I understand why some people may not want to do this the way I have recommended but I can't understand the death grip some people have on a toilet plunger with a hose fitting." -JimN

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                • #23
                  dang I hate the winterizing conversation...

                  How many days till April?
                  sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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                  • #24
                    Thanks for the positive feedback.

                    After doing a bit more research, it appears that Indmar has changed their position on fogging on the LT1. The LT1 is considered a dry intake, I believe because it is multi port fuel injected. If it were a throttle body fuel injected, it would considered wet. The most recent info from Indmar, per Vince at SkiDIM, is that you only fog through the LT1 by removing the spark plugs and spraying directly in the cylinder.

                    I have updated the checklist to reflect this new information. So if you downloaded it already, you might want to do so again.

                    Additionally, I am still checking into the RV anti-freeze. According to Vince at SkiDIM, they use RV anti-freeze and have for years. I have come to find out that there are two types, ethanol and proplyene glycol. I was thinking that Vince was going to say he used the newer proplyene glycol, but NO, they use the ethanol. I also have a call into Indmar to see what their most recent position is. I will update the lists again once I have the info.

                    Also of note, after talking to several marinas, most of them are now using the antifreeze method instead of dry blocking. They say their customers like it better. Instead of having to have customers come back in the spring to re-install their plugs, the customer can just put the boat in the water and start it up. Interesting enough, they use to charge $70 in the fall and $70 in the spring, many of the charge $150 in the fall now. None of them seem to know anything about using or not using RV antifreeze in Al heads. They all seem to use it, only SkiDIM knew which type (ethanol).
                    sigpic1996 Prostar 205 LT-1

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by mikeg205 View Post
                      dang I hate the winterizing conversation...

                      How many days till April?
                      What's this winterizing thing?
                      2008 x45

                      "You Can't Beat a Tree"

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by jakethebt View Post
                        Thanks for the positive feedback.
                        .... (ethanol).
                        both ethanol and propylene glycol are safe for aluminum.
                        sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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                        • #27
                          son of a *****

                          I fogged mine yesterday through the butterfly intakes, so now what

                          do I need to run it up again and clear that out?
                          I live in my own little world. But it's OK - They know me here

                          MONKEY FACE
                          sigpic

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                          • #28
                            Pram - is that the 1st time you've done it that way? If you've done it in previous years, I wouldn't worry about it. I think to clear it out, you might need to let it run more than just on the hose. To truly clear it out, you'd need to vary the throttle from idle to almost full to make sure it all flushes through...

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                            • #29
                              nope, first time that I have done this. I bought the boat only last year and had it winterized at the dealer in Redding. I always fogged my last one, but it was a carb, not injected

                              So I guess I need to put it all back together and take it back to the lake

                              well, maybe this will make me go for one last ski then this year :P
                              I live in my own little world. But it's OK - They know me here

                              MONKEY FACE
                              sigpic

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by pram View Post
                                nope, first time that I have done this. I bought the boat only last year and had it winterized at the dealer in Redding. I always fogged my last one, but it was a carb, not injected

                                So I guess I need to put it all back together and take it back to the lake

                                well, maybe this will make me go for one last ski then this year :P
                                If you saw smoke after spraying the fogging oil in, it should be OK. If not, you can remove the spark plugs, squirt some into each cylinder, replace the plugs and crank it over a few times with the safety switch out. It's not ideal if the winter has many temperature inversions and moist air, the condensation in the heads and cylinders could cause some rust on valves and seats, but with the number of still-working engines that have been sitting for years/decades without any care at all, one winter won't kill it.

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