IMO, synthetic is good if you're after longer drain intervals, lasts longer, doesn't break down as quickly.
I don't think, there are any other advantages.
Case in point, I ran my 1990GMC, 350 engine up to about 160k mi before I sold it. Changed the oil every 3k mi +/- with whatever the cheapest stuff on sale was. (I was in college, no extra money in the beer fund for syn oil.) Saw the truck a couple years later towing a big ole horse trailer. Guy I sold it to put a GN hitch in the bed and worked the 1/2 ton like a 1 ton. At that point it had about 230k mi, orig engine....and trans.
My new F150 work truck and the last one, both "require" 5W20 synthetic. Also have about a 10k mile reccomended oil change interval. My company still requires 3k mi oil changes and no syn oil. Turned in the last one at 90k mi and the engine was still fine, many of them running around close to 150k mi before getting sent to auction.
Again, I think routine maint is the key, not what you use to maintain it as long as it's of sufficient quality.
I use synthetic oils in my vehicles trans, t case, axles, but only because I don't want to crawl under them as often to change the oil. I use syn 2 stroke, top quality oil in my sleds but only because I have the oil injection tuned down to the minimum required to keep them running right. If I let them run fat on oil, I'd use cheaper stuff. Everything else including the boat (which gets short service intervals due to the amount of hrs a year I use it) gets dino oils.
Note this is only my opinion, but I was responsible for maintianing a fleet of vehicles/equipment for about 5 years. Landscaping business, mom and pop place, never saw things with engines get abused as bad as there and with regular cheap dino oil changes, I never saw an oil related failure, nor any premature failures. Plenty of wear and tear failures, things used well beyond their intended purpose or loading, swapped out a couple OLD engines, but reasonably priced oil works fine.
Good point Thrall but Royal Purple and Valvoline VR1-1 synth comes in cool colors. The one thing synth oil gives is better sheer strength just in case engine temps spikes. Synth base is good for the MCOCD soul.
sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....
As for the oil, I am lucky to find 20W50 anywhere, let alone brand or type... No idea why it is so hard to find.
most places don't carry on shelf...i.e. napa has it at warehouse.. I call day before or early morning or order on web early morning and pickup in the afternoon. Dino stuff good stuff..I jsut like new technology and synth oil IMO base stock less prone to oxidation due to manufacture process. I like the synth in tranny too..synth oils appear on available data to perform better stress and heat...just my .02... I hate oil...too much to read about and too many choices... lol...
sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....
So what is the correct oil weight to run on a 1994 LTI with about 600 hours?
I want to run Mobile One so what should I buy?
Mobil 1 Racing 15w50 or Valvoline VR1 Synth 20w50 - more anti-wear in additive pack than non-racing oil..... I personally like synth because of base stock plus I add 12 oz of Hyperlube...jsut cuz of by MC OCD.
sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....
Regarding the RV PG antifreeze.... from what I have read its not the PG antifreeze that is the problem with the aluminum heads, its the lack of corrosion inihibitors in the RV antifreeze that is the problem. I warm up the engine and pump automotive PG with inhibitors thru the engine (like Sierra), let it cool overnight, then drain and salvage as much as I can for resue next year. I also take a shop vac and put the hose on the blower side and blow thru the hoses. You can feel the air coming out thru the drain plugs. Just to make sure there is not crap plugging up the drain plugs....
Also, I notice that your checklist indicates draining the engine while it is still hot. This has always been a dilemma for me. Is this important to drain fluid on both sides of the thermostat?? I dont like the idea of draining the fluid off the engine while it is hot and possibly serving as a heat sink for the block. The previous owner of the boat said he just pulled the hoses and the block plugs and that was it, so I assume the engine will drain adequately when cool. So, I have elected to antifreeze and then drain after the engine is cool.
Mobil 1 Racing 15w50 or Valvoline VR1 Synth 20w50 - more anti-wear in additive pack than non-racing oil..... I personally like synth because of base stock plus I add 12 oz of Hyperlube...jsut cuz of by MC OCD.
I had to run to the store for a few items for the house tonight...Walmart by the house had nothing...Autozone had 20W50 (Valvoline for around $22 for 5 qts) and any 15W40 oil they had were all labeled for Diesel engines...where can I get the Mobil 1 Racing 15W50?
I had to run to the store for a few items for the house tonight...Walmart by the house had nothing...Autozone had 20W50 (Valvoline for around $22 for 5 qts) and any 15W40 oil they had were all labeled for Diesel engines...where can I get the Mobil 1 Racing 15W50?
Mike, you have the LT1, correct?
No I have the 5.7 TBI.. Also - the Mobil 1 Racing sorry is 0w50 - but Zinc/Phosphorous is 1850. You can find it on Amazon.com. For the price you can go Mobil 1 15w50 non racing and add ZDDP from Autozone. You can get hte 15w50 at the walmart on rt. 59 on the north side of plainfield.
The diesel i.e. Rotella 15w40 is a great oil for marine use as well and a great price. I went to the 20w50 for the boosted levels of zinc/phosphorus because my engine has flat tappets.
The Mobil 1 Racing is a bit pricey at $16 a quart.
15w is for the winter viscosity. the 40 is the operating temp viscosity. You have roller tappets I believe so 15w40 rotella should work great or even the 5w40 rotella T6 Synthetic. Both have higher ZDDP.
My engine called for the same 15w40 - but I noticed a slight performance improvement with the VR1 20w50. Lot of great info on the web on oil and flat tappets and lt-1 engines.
Last edited by mikeg205; 10-09-2012, 08:35 AM.
Reason: added info
sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....
I just picked up my gear and am going to give this a shot this weekend on my LT-1.
Went with:
20w50 VR1 Synthetic ($8.99/quart)
Mobil 1 ATF Synthetic ($9.99/quart)
New Plugs
New fuel filters (2 ea)
6 gallons of RV Antifreeze
Stabil-Fogging Oil for each spark plug hole only
K&N Filter cleaning
Come, Saturday, I may be asking more questions to be sure I get it completely done correctly.
I'm thinking run the RV coolant through the engine until it comes out the back and then drain everything. Blow out heater and shower. Remove impellar.
Please keep us up to date on your progress and include pics...our 190 will be shipped on Sunday to arrive next week some time and we will be doing the same process.
If you see a 94 190 with basically the same color scheme as your boat near your house this weekend, that is ours!
Please keep us up to date on your progress and include pics...our 190 will be shipped on Sunday to arrive next week some time and we will be doing the same process.
If you see a 94 190 with basically the same color scheme as your boat near your house this weekend, that is ours!
So you did buy that one in Denver.....
Looked pretty good and idential to mine (less the 205). Glad you found someone to haul it for you.
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