Winterization of an LT1 - Checklist

[RJY]

I just bought a 99 X Star (205 V) the guy I bought if from says I have the LT1 but I want to be sure, this would mean the difference between using RV anti freeze or not.
How can I tell if I have the LT1 or not?

Thanks!

[JimN]

Im going to give the dealer the benefit of the doubt, as they have known the boat from day one, and the list of checks that they did were extensive and ranged from the trailer brakes to the energy absorbers holding up the engine cover. I found one of the vanes when I drained the port manifold and there are only two missing. While draining there was some crud that came out, so the other one could possibly be destroyed beyond the point of recognition. The temperature at the gauge never fluctuated, so Im fairly confident that there was no overheating. I am on my way out the door to finish the winterization, and am going to look for the debris you were talking about. Thanks for the pointers. I may be over anlalyzing this whole deal, however I have wanted this boat for over 6 years, and well frankly, its still new to me, i absolutely love it, and I plan on skiing the my a** off with it for years to come.

The problem with thinking that the engine didn't overheat because the temperature didn't spike is that the coolant temperature sensor needs to be immersed in liquid in order to work. If it was at a particular temperature and the liquid goes away, it won't cool down very fast because air doesn't conduct heat very well.

[Sierra Tango II]

If it's a beautiful morning, why would you NOT take it out on the water? That speeds up the process and, well,...

If the service manager saw a damaged impeller and DIDN'T replace it, I'd be pretty PO'd. It was already out- what better time to do this? If you have three missing vanes, it can't cool the engine at idle, period. If ANY vanes were missing when the shop looked at it, I would have a serious problem and if they didn't document everything, they'd be on my S-list.

Look at it this way- the choices were to A) replace a bad impeller and you probably wouldn't have had this problem (assuming the oil cooler and raw water hoses are all clear of any obstructions) or B) leave it and let you have this problem. A costs a little but B could be expensive if the exhaust hoses are soft, the flappers and flanges are blistered and the engine cooks. If these aren't at least inspected, you're asking for trouble.

Yes, worry about the missing vanes. Never assume they're not going to cause a problem.


Look, I'm not trying to be the voice of doom and gloom but these are different from car engines because they have a raw water impeller that's not metal and can be damaged and they have rubber exhaust hoses and flappers & plastic exhaust flanges that can be melted by hot exhaust gases. If any water was going through the engine and exhaust, it's possible that they weren't damaged badly because you were only at idle but they still need to be checked and the dealer should have instructed you on what to do WRT long idle times (basically, "don't"). The oil cooler should be checked- if you find weeds and other debris, that's a likely cause for this problem.

Im going to give the dealer the benefit of the doubt, as they have known the boat from day one, and the list of checks that they did were extensive and ranged from the trailer brakes to the energy absorbers holding up the engine cover. I found one of the vanes when I drained the port manifold and there are only two missing. While draining there was some crud that came out, so the other one could possibly be destroyed beyond the point of recognition. The temperature at the gauge never fluctuated, so Im fairly confident that there was no overheating. I am on my way out the door to finish the winterization, and am going to look for the debris you were talking about. Thanks for the pointers. I may be over anlalyzing this whole deal, however I have wanted this boat for over 6 years, and well frankly, its still new to me, i absolutely love it, and I plan on skiing the my a** off with it for years to come.

[JimN]

Quite honestly i idled for about 40 minutes or so, as it was a beautiful morning, I was enjoying my coffee and it was the last time it was going to be in the water. I just bought the boat about a month ago and put about ten hours on it. I had it checked at the Mastercraft dealer and it checked out fine, including the impeller. I do know about the impeller and asked at the time that it was cecked out if it should be replaced, however the service manager said that because it was the end of the season not to worry about it, but to just keep an eye on the temp gauge for any sudden fluctuation, but replace it when I winterized it. I did not know that the boat was not meant to idle long. What damage occurs with excessive idle time? We actually use it for more than just skiing and probably 2 of the ten hours have been at idle while driving around the lake watching the sunset. I removed everything thus far but have not cranked it over. I was going to change the oil, and tranny fluid, fog it and then crank it over as the last thing that I did. I pulled the entire drain plug out on the block, as I am aware how the passages get clogged with debris. Am I to worry about the pieces of impeller that may or may not be in the block, or are the passages large enough so that the flow will not be restricted?

If it's a beautiful morning, why would you NOT take it out on the water? That speeds up the process and, well,...

If the service manager saw a damaged impeller and DIDN'T replace it, I'd be pretty PO'd. It was already out- what better time to do this? If you have three missing vanes, it can't cool the engine at idle, period. If ANY vanes were missing when the shop looked at it, I would have a serious problem and if they didn't document everything, they'd be on my S-list.

Look at it this way- the choices were to A) replace a bad impeller and you probably wouldn't have had this problem (assuming the oil cooler and raw water hoses are all clear of any obstructions) or B) leave it and let you have this problem. A costs a little but B could be expensive if the exhaust hoses are soft, the flappers and flanges are blistered and the engine cooks. If these aren't at least inspected, you're asking for trouble.

Yes, worry about the missing vanes. Never assume they're not going to cause a problem.

Look, I'm not trying to be the voice of doom and gloom but these are different from car engines because they have a raw water impeller that's not metal and can be damaged and they have rubber exhaust hoses and flappers & plastic exhaust flanges that can be melted by hot exhaust gases. If any water was going through the engine and exhaust, it's possible that they weren't damaged badly because you were only at idle but they still need to be checked and the dealer should have instructed you on what to do WRT long idle times (basically, "don't"). The oil cooler should be checked- if you find weeds and other debris, that's a likely cause for this problem.

[Sierra Tango II]

What do you mean by "I pushed the throttle down"? It was at idle, or WOT? If it's the LT-1, you don't want to idle for a long time.

Yes, look in the thermostat housings and see if you can find pieces of the impeller.

How long have you owned this boat? If it's new to you, buy two impellers WITH THE GASKETS and keep one on-board at all times, as a spare. The knock sensor is the plug for that side and the other has either a petcock, a plug or a T-fitting for a heater. Remove whatever is there and make sure the water rushes out, not at slow dribble. You also need to remove the plugs or disconnect the hoses on the rear of the exhaust manifolds, the oil cooler and at the lowest points of the pumps, then crank it over with the lanyard off.

Quite honestly i idled for about 40 minutes or so, as it was a beautiful morning, I was enjoying my coffee and it was the last time it was going to be in the water. I just bought the boat about a month ago and put about ten hours on it. I had it checked at the Mastercraft dealer and it checked out fine, including the impeller. I do know about the impeller and asked at the time that it was cecked out if it should be replaced, however the service manager said that because it was the end of the season not to worry about it, but to just keep an eye on the temp gauge for any sudden fluctuation, but replace it when I winterized it. I did not know that the boat was not meant to idle long. What damage occurs with excessive idle time? We actually use it for more than just skiing and probably 2 of the ten hours have been at idle while driving around the lake watching the sunset. I removed everything thus far but have not cranked it over. I was going to change the oil, and tranny fluid, fog it and then crank it over as the last thing that I did. I pulled the entire drain plug out on the block, as I am aware how the passages get clogged with debris. Am I to worry about the pieces of impeller that may or may not be in the block, or are the passages large enough so that the flow will not be restricted?

[JimN]

Ok, so i downloaded my checklist and was going to do everything by the book. I brought my boat to the lake, added stabil, let it come to temp and pushed the throttle down for a few minutes. within a minute or two after doing so the "check engine" light comes on. Gauges were normal, operating temp where it should be. Oil pressure good, voltage good, so I shut it down and started it back up, light goes off, I idle for a minute (heading back towards the dock) and again pushe the throttle down. It does the same thing. By now Im back at the dock so I shut it down, pull it out and drain the block right there at the ramp, like was mentioned earlier in this thread, and when I drained the exhaust manifolds pieces of the impeller came out. I pulled the cover off and three of the rubber fins were missing. I had it kchecked out before I bought it and it checked out fine with the exception of the energy absorbers and the trailer brakes. I put ten hours on it only. My question is, is there any damage that could have happened, and should I worry about the impeller pieces clogging any of the passages? Also, I took off all the hoses and the port drainplug to drain the block, however on the starboard side there was not a plug, but the knock sensor. Am I to assume that the knock sensor is the plug? I looked all around and didnt see a block drain. Any advice would be appreciated.

What do you mean by "I pushed the throttle down"? It was at idle, or WOT? If it's the LT-1, you don't want to idle for a long time.

Yes, look in the thermostat housings and see if you can find pieces of the impeller.

How long have you owned this boat? If it's new to you, buy two impellers WITH THE GASKETS and keep one on-board at all times, as a spare. The knock sensor is the plug for that side and the other has either a petcock, a plug or a T-fitting for a heater. Remove whatever is there and make sure the water rushes out, not at slow dribble. You also need to remove the plugs or disconnect the hoses on the rear of the exhaust manifolds, the oil cooler and at the lowest points of the pumps, then crank it over with the lanyard off.

[Sierra Tango II]

Ok, so i downloaded my checklist and was going to do everything by the book. I brought my boat to the lake, added stabil, let it come to temp and pushed the throttle down for a few minutes. within a minute or two after doing so the "check engine" light comes on. Gauges were normal, operating temp where it should be. Oil pressure good, voltage good, so I shut it down and started it back up, light goes off, I idle for a minute (heading back towards the dock) and again pushe the throttle down. It does the same thing. By now Im back at the dock so I shut it down, pull it out and drain the block right there at the ramp, like was mentioned earlier in this thread, and when I drained the exhaust manifolds pieces of the impeller came out. I pulled the cover off and three of the rubber fins were missing. I had it kchecked out before I bought it and it checked out fine with the exception of the energy absorbers and the trailer brakes. I put ten hours on it only. My question is, is there any damage that could have happened, and should I worry about the impeller pieces clogging any of the passages? Also, I took off all the hoses and the port drainplug to drain the block, however on the starboard side there was not a plug, but the knock sensor. Am I to assume that the knock sensor is the plug? I looked all around and didnt see a block drain. Any advice would be appreciated.

[Jorski]

Ski-me...

Great job!

Two things:

1) Make sure that you remove that knock sensor. It's at the low point in the cooling system. When you do, use an awl or something and make sure that there isn't any scale or other debris blocking the hole.

2) You asked me about the method that I use. No anti-freeze at all, just very careful about draining. never a problem in 9 years of cold Canadian winters.

Finally, I remove the pitot tubes at the bottom of the little brass ballast tubes located in the space behind the back seat on either side. Then I blow the water out with my mouth...if you cant do this the pick-up is clogged, and you should clear it with a large safety pin.

Nice job!

[JimN]

It definitely took me several hours to do everything...and I took my time. I'd say about 4-5 hrs on the boat - (had a volleyball meeting to attend to in the middle of the whole thing!) I used that break to drive the boat around and get all the water sloshed out of the hull. A lot of stop/go and hills.

When I went to training, the instructor, who had previously owned shop, said they used to haul boats out before winterization. They would get to the boat, put the StaBil in the tank, run it over to the launch and pull it out before getting out of the way of other boaters who were removing their boats, where they would remove the hull plug(s), remove the engine plugs and lower end of the hoses, crank it over to clear the water pumps and drive it back to the shop to do the cleaning, corrosion guard, oil changes and anything else on the list. By the time they got back, the engine and hull had drained. No anti-freeze at all. This is a fairly deep lake, so weeds, mud and silt weren't a problem, but they never had a block freeze, either.

[Ski-me]

It definitely took me several hours to do everything...and I took my time. I'd say about 4-5 hrs on the boat - (had a volleyball meeting to attend to in the middle of the whole thing!) I used that break to drive the boat around and get all the water sloshed out of the hull. A lot of stop/go and hills.

Edit: Added pics of speedo blowout before the thread subject deviates....keep in mind that the speedo hose is secured by a nut on the back of the gauge so you may have to twist it to remove the tube.

Because of the dry climate, I decided to NOT fog the cylinders. From the two shops I spoke with, they just didn't think it was necessary here in Colorado.

[JimN]

I really want to change the tranny oil in my 96 LT-1....why don't someone give me a play by play on how to do that...

I just changed oil and removed all the water, plus removed the impeller. Last thing on my mind is the tranny....

Call the closest dealer and ask what they do when they winterize. If they don't do much, call other dealers. When I was working on boats, it took close to 3 hours and that was only because I had worked on so many boats that I could streamline it by running one to temperature while I was doing something on another boat. If you paid someone to do it in the past, look at the invoice to see what was done and copy it. If you're in a cold climate, it requires more than in a more moderate climate. Plan and work accordingly.

[tideengineer]

I really want to change the tranny oil in my 96 LT-1....why don't someone give me a play by play on how to do that...

I just changed oil and removed all the water, plus removed the impeller. Last thing on my mind is the tranny....

[JimN]

Cool, thanks! I kinda thought so but wanted to double check.

Also, anyone do the pitot tubes as well? I looked at my gauges and don't really want to take that apart to get to the end. Maybe just blow it out from the "gold tube" in the back on out to the pitot assembly?

You can do it that way, but you risk having the gauges blow out if the water freezes. Don't use vacuum to remove the water from the gauges, either- that can damage the diaphragm, too.

It's a pain, but it's just part of "doing it right".

[Ski-me]

That "thing" is your knock sensor, and yes you need to remove if you want to drain that side of the block. Once removed, you may want to poke around a bit with a small screw driver or piece of wire to make sure there isn't any sediment or rust blocking any more liquid from draining.

Nice pictures and details, thanks for taking the time to document your procedures.

Cool, thanks! I kinda thought so but wanted to double check.

Also, anyone do the pitot tubes as well? I looked at my gauges and don't really want to take that apart to get to the end. Maybe just blow it out from the "gold tube" in the back on out to the pitot assembly?

Added to Thread:

Glad you noted the knock sensor.....definitely a LOT of water still in there! Appreciate it!

[mikeg205]

The only thing I would add is the Platinum oil filter from napa part 41060 - not needed but good for my MCOCD... http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...060_0362575149

The only difference in the platinum has a lower flow rate - but catches smaller particles.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRbDfhgOOgo