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Winterization of an LT1 - Checklist

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  • 88 PS190
    replied
    Originally posted by ctjahn View Post
    Also, Why does everyone change the oil in winter? Why not in spring? That way new oil is not festering all winter and you start with a fresh oil in spring?
    Because when running the engine contaminants get into the oil soot from combustion, moisture, particulate etc. You don't want that to fester in the engine all winter where it might be somewhat corrosive.

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  • ctjahn
    replied
    Hi folks.

    I reviewed the instructions and blew through the 14 pages of comments. This is my second MC as my first one was a 78. I took a spare hose and a funnel and poured the anti-freeze right into the inlet line. But with the new 1995 PROSTAR 205 (new to me) the LT1 I see a stub hose right in the front. Not sure what this is so can someone post a pic?

    Flip spring-loaded inlet on Flopro and install a short hose from coolant bucket or insert inlet hose

    Also, Why does everyone change the oil in winter? Why not in spring? That way new oil is not festering all winter and you start with a fresh oil in spring? I always did it in the fall as long as the engine was warm it sucked out a lot easier. This motor appears to have a oil drain pigtail? Looks like I can just shove the pigtail out the hull drain under the engine, remove the cap and drain the oil right into a pan!? Wow thats awesome compared to the suck method.

    Thanks in advance!
    Cj
    [email protected]

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  • jakethebt
    replied
    Hey Gotta Ski... I agree. I have not done that either, they are expensive. I am not sure what the right interval is to update the checklist to. That said, thanks for finding a flaw with the checklist and complaining about it. Clearly the checklist is time proven and do no harm if you followed it to the letter. I am sure there are other things on there that are overkill too. That said many on here have contributed to it. Also, many have followed it with out any winterization damage and minimizing summer break downs.

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  • Rocketboy
    replied
    7/8 just spun on it. Pretty rounded off. Put a channel locks on it and spun out pretty easy.
    Have a really sharp kid at NAPA and I called him today. He was sure he had what I needed but wanted to see it so I will bring it in tomorrow and pick one up.

    Now on to adding a garden hose connection and maybe moving the strainer. So hard to get the screen and cup back in when I need to clean it. Have a nasty area that I need to pass to get into dock so I clean it every few weeks to be sure.

    Leave a comment:


  • JimN
    replied
    Originally posted by Rocketboy View Post
    Sorry guys- I didn't state that very well. The hole is good. It is where the wrench would go. It is getting channel locks tonight. I am guessing that I can just go to NAPA and tell them I need a knock sensor for a 93 LT-1?

    Thanks guys- appreciate all the help!!
    If you strip the paint off, you should see the part number laser etched into the metal.

    7/8” socket.

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  • Rocketboy
    replied
    Originally posted by JimN View Post
    The hole is stripped? How are you keeping the sensor in place? If you're using some kind of cement or sealant, repair the hole and replace the sensor the right way- that's a necessary part of the system and if the ECM doesn't get signal from it, you could damage your engine. If you don't remove it and the water inside freezes, the block will crack.
    Sorry guys- I didn't state that very well. The hole is good. It is where the wrench would go. It is getting channel locks tonight. I am guessing that I can just go to NAPA and tell them I need a knock sensor for a 93 LT-1?

    Thanks guys- appreciate all the help!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Ski-me
    replied
    Are you saying "its stripped" on the outside where you unscrew it with a crescent wrench, or the threads inside the block are stripped? Is it similar to post #79 picture?

    That's the knock sensor and needs to be removed. If it's just the rounded corners for a wrench to get onto the end, you could use a larger channel lock plyers to "gently" get a grip on it and unscrew it.

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  • JimN
    replied
    Originally posted by Rocketboy View Post
    So I Am winterize got for the first time. Outboards were so much easier!!

    So I have hoses off and pulled the plugs on exhaust and one on the block. See picture for other side of block. I am thinking I need to pull this to drain other side of block.

    It is stripped and nothing fits it. Is the a temp sensor?

    Thanks for the help!!
    The hole is stripped? How are you keeping the sensor in place? If you're using some kind of cement or sealant, repair the hole and replace the sensor the right way- that's a necessary part of the system and if the ECM doesn't get signal from it, you could damage your engine. If you don't remove it and the water inside freezes, the block will crack.

    Leave a comment:


  • gotta_ski
    replied
    Reading this thread, I have an issue with the checklist in the first post. Changing the spark plug wires every other year isn't just overkill MCOCD, its stupid. Do you feel the need to change the plug wires in your car every year? Total waste of time and money for something that should last you at least 10 years, if not longer.

    Leave a comment:


  • jawest79
    replied
    Originally posted by Rocketboy View Post
    So I Am winterize got for the first time. Outboards were so much easier!!



    So I have hoses off and pulled the plugs on exhaust and one on the block. See picture for other side of block. I am thinking I need to pull this to drain other side of block.



    It is stripped and nothing fits it. Is the a temp sensor?



    Thanks for the help!!


    That’s the knock sensor, and yes you should pull that out to drain the water.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Rocketboy
    replied
    So I Am winterize got for the first time. Outboards were so much easier!!

    So I have hoses off and pulled the plugs on exhaust and one on the block. See picture for other side of block. I am thinking I need to pull this to drain other side of block.

    It is stripped and nothing fits it. Is the a temp sensor?

    Thanks for the help!!
    Attached Files

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  • Ski-me
    replied
    On mine, I will fog into each cylinder via plug removal of each one and not through the TB unit.

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  • jawest79
    replied
    Noob here asking the same ole question one last time.

    I have the Predator 5.7 310HP engine. It is fuel injected, so do I need to fog under the flame arrestor or just fog each cylinder? I have read just cylinders or do both but I am still confused.

    Also, manual says 20W/50 for oil, am I losing something by going Rotellla 15W/40?


    Thanks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • Ski-me
    replied
    It was a while since I have looked at the pictures I uploaded....and I see our wonderful Photobucket website has stepped in to blur everything. So today I went in and updated/uploaded all the pics to the Teamtalk website instead. Hope this helps everyone!

    *** Pics and procedure start on Page 7 ***

    Leave a comment:


  • Ski-me
    replied
    Originally posted by BigGixxerFixxer View Post
    I’ve been thinking of putting one before the pump also.
    Remember what you used?
    Appreciate any insight you might have


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I used the Wix 33482 and just cut the line on top of the tank. Then used two hose clamps to secure. Works great!

    Leave a comment:

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