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1993 Prostar 351 Ford Winterization

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  • #16
    If you want antifreeze in the manifolds/risers and engine without running the motor.. you will need to open the t-stat housing... order a new gasket and I fill any pits with permatex gasket sealant.
    Attached Files
    sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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    • #17
      If you remove the triangular shaped housing cover, pull the thermostat, you can then pour antifreeze directly into the block from the top. If you first drain the block of fresh water and then close the valves you can then avoid diluting the new antifreeze. You can also remove the top of the large hose to pour antifreeze into the engine water pump. Then if you remove the two thinner hoses that come off the right and left sides of the same housing cover you can use a funnel and pour antifreeze directly into each of them for the manifold/riser assemblies.

      You might want to also get antifreeze into the transmission cooler. I noticed today that if you try to over fill the block from the top to far it will overflow back through the transmission cooler out onto the ground through the pickup. This might be sufficient to flush any fresh water pockets that might still be in the cooler with antifreeze though most of it will run back out.

      On my '91 PS190 I use a large Rubbermaid container for winterizing to draw the coolant in with the engine running. I like this method more than simply pouring it in at various points. I'm afraid I might miss a pocket of water simply using the funnel method. With the motor running and pulling in fluid I know for sure I'm getting plenty of antifreeze into not only the block and manifolds, but also the trans cooler, engine water pump, etc. I pull tied a hose valve to the top of the Rubbermaid container, with a short piece of hose laying in the tub for the water inlet. Then I can hook the hose up the the house and use the valve to keep the tub filled with water. Then I bought about a 3' section of large hose that fits the back of the transmission cooler. So basically I remove the large hose that originally connects the transmission cooler to the pickup fitting on the bottom of the boat and attach my 3' section that is pull tied to my rubbermaid container to keep it at the bottom there. Once the motor is started it pulls in the water quite well, even though it has to go up and over the edge of the container than back down. Anyway, this is what I use to pull the antifreeze into the engine. I can then warm up the engine for an oil change, and also to get the thermostat open. Though I could trust the thermostat to stay open for a while, I typically pull the thermostat when I finally switch my rubbermaid container over from fresh water to 5 gallons or so of antifreeze. Once I'm pulling in the antifreeze I get armed with my fogging oil and spray it to kill the engine right as it's just got all 5 gallons of antifreeze sucked up. I should mention that even at idle the engine may draw the water faster than your hose may be able to deliver to a tub. Still, I just keep an eye on it and turn the engine off if I need to allow the water bin to fill back up.
      GKinTN
      TT Enthusiast
      Last edited by GKinTN; 10-20-2014, 01:26 AM.

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      • #18
        Do you have a picture of the pump that you hook your hose to draw antifreeze from Rubbermaid bucket? I currently can hook garden hose up to a female brass fitting that runs engine out of water but I am not sure where (fresh water pump) or intake pump is located. If I follow hose line going away from engine) down to hull what does pump look like? Picture of my engine is a couple slides ahead.

        I would like to just suck antifreeze through engine like you do so I don't have to remove hoses and thermostat cover ect.

        Thanks.

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        • #19
          If you follow the hose off the brass impeller pump over to the left (passenger) side of the boat it connects to the transmission cooler. The cooler is about 6-7" long and maybe 2' diameter and mine is painted black, has two oil hoses off the brass ide fittings that run to the transmission and back. It is held to the side of the engine block with one bolt through a small bracket. That said at the end of the cooler there is piece of hose that runs to the bottom of the hull for the lake water pickup. All I did was disconnect this hose from the rear of the transmission cooler. Then I attached a piece of hose (that I sourced from Home Depot) using the same hose clamp that connects it and run that to my rubbermaid container up over the edge and tucked down towards the bottom of the container. I added a pull tie through a small hole I cut in the rim of the container to help keep the hose from flopping back out. The impeller pump is strong enough (at least it is on my '91 PS190) to draw water from the container without any additional pump needed. To check if it pulling I could place my hand in the bucket and feel the suction, plus every so often there would be a good gush of water out the exhaust pipes. Keep an eye on the water container though. Mine is about 20-30 gallons but the engine can pull the water down just a little quicker than my house water faucet can supply, even at idle. So I have to cut the engine off maybe every 5-10 mins to let the container refill. Still workable to get the engine warmed up, and once you are ready you can shut things off pour out the container and fill it with about 5 gallons of RV antifreeze then restart the engine. It will only take maybe 10-20 seconds to pull it in then you can be ready with the fogging oil to snuff it out right as it sucks up the last bit of antifreeze. Also I have a shut off valve on my garden hose right at the rubbermaid container, just in case I need to shut off the water. I've had it overflow just a bt into the boat a couple times because I forgot to shut off the water (and the engine was off) but no worries it runs into the bilge quick enough and you can just drain it all out the drain if you have to.

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          • #20
            I gotta say go dry block. I just did mine with the suggested method here. I got concerned after a day because I have always done a dry block. I unscrewed the petcock valves and much to my surprise easily the first 1/2 to 3/4 gallon was crystal clear water, then it started to turn pink. I ran 6 gallons through the system to. I'm glad i did what i did and would suggest it to others as well.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by mikeg205 View Post
              Pour antifreeze into top of hose pointed by arrow.
              Hi Mike,

              This may be a silly question, but I wanted to double check.

              Could you take out thermostat and pour antifreeze directly into housing - this would fill up the circulating pump as well right?
              Held to a Higher Standard......Let's Face It Steak Costs More Than Hamburger - MASTERCRAFT

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              • #22
                Originally posted by JDJ_205 View Post
                Hi Mike,

                This may be a silly question, but I wanted to double check.

                Could you take out thermostat and pour antifreeze directly into housing - this would fill up the circulating pump as well right?
                that would works as well -
                sigpic...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....

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                • #23
                  Thanks Mike - just wanted to double check. just my MCOCD.
                  Held to a Higher Standard......Let's Face It Steak Costs More Than Hamburger - MASTERCRAFT

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                  • #24
                    Exhaust manifold drains? I found a plug on each manifold toward the rear opposite of the hose connection (right below rear of riser) that would take a fairly big size socket like 3/4 drive but it looks pretty much built into manifold. Is this the drain that you open?
                    Attached Files
                    jamesmu2
                    TT Regular
                    Last edited by jamesmu2; 10-27-2014, 04:00 AM.

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                    • #25
                      Those are the plugs.
                      Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

                      Red 1998 Ski Nautique, PCM GT40, 310 hp, , Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG/Zbox.

                      FAQ


                      Be kind. Have fun.

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                      • #26
                        Thanks!

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                        • #27
                          So, this was my first winter with the boat. Had a guy come to the house and winterize the engine for me. Now it's warm, unfortunately, I have to sell my 89 ps190 and reading your document, I can just put in a newly charged battery, and go? It has some antifreeze in the engine, so that will just cycle through? The gas tank has some stabil in it as well... put it on the water and go?

                          thanks!

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                          • #28
                            Make sure all drain plugs are installed....make sure that all hoses are connected and clamped on properly .Make sure that the speedo tubes are hooked up.

                            What was done with the impellor? If it was left in the raw water pump, install a new one.

                            Then hook up a battery and off ya go.

                            If the gas tank isn't full....fill it up with fresh gas.

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                            • #29
                              SWEET! Thanks!

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