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Winterization 2012 Ilmor 5.7

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  • Winterization 2012 Ilmor 5.7

    Did my old Barefoot 190 for 20 years, nervous about my new boat.

    Did the following steps to winterize the motor:

    1. Drained all the water out of motor block, heater, exhaust manifolds and impeller.

    2. Tighten everything back up and ran 6 gallons of Marine AntiFreeze through the engine via a 5 gallon bucket attached passed the strainer (completely by-passed strainer).

    NOTHING came out the exhaust in the back of the boat.

    3. Drained engine again via block, heater, exhaust manifolds and impeller (also disconnected J-Hose and made sure nothing was in there). Everything that came out was pure PINK.

    Should I be concerned that nothing came out the exhaust while running the motor with antifreeze ?

    Thanks
    H20Ski454
    Pic of Old and New for the hell of it.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Hey, I can relate. Just bought a 2011 PS 197 WTT after 20 years with my 88 PS 190. What a change! with my '88 I could hook it up to recirculate antifreeze through the engine and back into a bucket, which ensured I had every nook and cranny filled. On my 2011 the Ilmor has at least 4 hoses that I would have to manage if I wanted to do the same type of recirculation.

    I just got off the phone with Rick at Ilmor to get some advice. He was very helpful. Basically said for my engine (2011 5.7 L), to do what you did (suck or pour the AF into the hose leading to the impeller while running the engine), and the engine should be hot when you did this. For this year they don't recommend pouring into the thermostat housing, as it would be very difficult. He said it would take about 3 gallons and you should start to see AF coming out.

    IMHO, if you got pink when you drained it out you should be good. There's quite a bit of volume in the exhaust and unless you gave it a good rev, it might just pool in the pipes. My guess is if you go for a drive or park it on a hill you will see some pink run out. And, even if there is still water in the pipes, there's no risk as there is plenty of room for expansion if it freezes.

    I'm doing mine in the next couple days so will let you know what I see.

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    • #3
      Winterization 2012 Ilmor 5.7

      Pics????
      Last edited by MIskiboat; 10-24-2018, 08:21 PM.

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      • #4
        Thank-You.....CdK

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        • #5
          On my X15 there is a small line that runs from the transmission cooler to the dripless shaft seal. If you don't clamp off this line, you will lose a lot of AF through the shaft seal/prop.
          We defy the mafia!

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          • #6
            454 -- I did mine last week and had the same results as you. And I agree with blackhawk. When I ran the boat with the fake-a-lake I was surprised at how much flow came out the prop seal, so I did pinch it off with a c-clamp. In the future I'll have a plug for that tee so I don't do damage to the hose.

            I used only 3 gallons of AF, per the advice of Ilmor. pulled all the plugs and confirmed I had green coming out all of them (I use green for better corrosion protection, or so i believe) and then put her to bed.

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            • #7
              Thanks

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              • #8
                I just winterized my 2011 X14V with the same engine, and here's what I did. Let me know if I missed anything:

                1. Fill gas tank mostly full with stabilized zero ethanol fuel (high octane)
                2. Warm up boat running on homemade fake a lake until thermostat opens and gauge is around 160F (15-20 minutes)
                o Tub under exhaust pipes, running garden hose into tub to make up water lost through propeller shaft seal flush
                o Flexible hose from tub to oil cooler intake– 1-1/4” ID
                o Idle for at least 15 minutes, once up to temperature (>160F), change engine oil and filter and transmission oil using vacuum extractor
                3. Check and clean transmission oil filter
                4. Remove and clean intake air filter with K&N cleaner, then spray with K&N filter oil
                5. Restart and idle back up to temp (>160F) to make sure thermostat is open, then shutdown and drain cooling system
                6. Impeller – change impeller & gasket (remove 4 bolts on the face cover and use 2 paint can pry tools)
                7. Draining Open Cooling system:
                o drain exhaust headers of raw water by removing ½” NPT pipe plugs from water rails (horizontal silver painted plug at back, or hose connection off bottom?)
                o drain engine block – remove knock sensors from both sides of engine block
                o drain oil/tranny fluid heat exchanger (oil cooler)
                o remove hoses between oil cooler and engine, drain and reinstall
                o Blow out heater, and add antifreeze, then blow out again (shop vac)

                8. Fill engine cooling system with AF:
                o fill engine block 7 heads via thermostat housing using- remove both exhaust header feed hoses, raise as high as possible, fill engine block
                o Add AF to both exhaust manifolds via thermostat housing hoses
                o Add AF to intake from sea **** up and into oil cooler
                o Run engine until 6 gallons of AF is drawn in by water pump suction, and AF is coming out exhaust pipes and prop shaft seal

                I didn't remove the thermostat, as it seemed very difficult to access
                I didn't clamp off or plug the prop shaft seal line, so did lose antifreeze through there, but still got lots coming out the exhasut
                I didn't rev the engine, just idled when pouring in 6 gallons of pink AF into the intake strainer
                I didn't fog the engine with fogging oil

                Any suggestions on what I missed or should do differently are certainly appreciated!

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                • #9
                  H20Ski454,

                  I have a 2013 with essentially the same engine. It takes mine 7 gallons before I see pink coming out the exhaust.

                  My old 86 would take only 3 gallons before it came out the back.

                  What is important is that the engine comes to normal operating temp before you drain and suck the antifreeze through. If the thermostat is not open (at temp) the antifreeze does not circulate throughout the engine.

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                  • #10
                    kyfooter,

                    How can you confirm that the Tstat was open and AF is circulated through the engine? I don't think seeing it in the exhaust is proof? Maybe pull the anit-knock plugs on both sides of the block and see if the drainage is pink?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Question for y'all: how do you get the antifreeze in? I have a perko flush kit installed between the strainer and the transmission cooler. I had to uncouple the connection between the two and shove the whole perko assembly in the bucket to get it to suck up. It was horrible. It's super difficult to use a fake-a-lake with the location of the raw water pickup, basically it won't form a seal. This was my first time winterizing it myself and I've got to find a better solution for next year. Maybe I'll try to plumb in a hose connection between the two or after the flush kit. The flush kit requires pressure against the ball valve on the hose connection to work, so I can't just attached a hose and put it in the bucket-o-antifreeze. Super frustrating, but I knew it would be a learning experience.

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                      • #12
                        Get a 12v RV water pump to pressurize your AF. The intake side of the pump goes in the Anti freeze gallon and you connect the output to the Perko flush valve. Those pumps usually have a 50psi rating/cut of switch. You'll need to close the raw water intake valve. Engine has to be pre run with water long enough for the thermostat to open, about 160 degree.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by lentiman View Post
                          Question for y'all: how do you get the antifreeze in? I have a perko flush kit installed between the strainer and the transmission cooler. I had to uncouple the connection between the two and shove the whole perko assembly in the bucket to get it to suck up. It was horrible. It's super difficult to use a fake-a-lake with the location of the raw water pickup, basically it won't form a seal. This was my first time winterizing it myself and I've got to find a better solution for next year. Maybe I'll try to plumb in a hose connection between the two or after the flush kit. The flush kit requires pressure against the ball valve on the hose connection to work, so I can't just attached a hose and put it in the bucket-o-antifreeze. Super frustrating, but I knew it would be a learning experience.

                          I just pull off the hose from exit side of the Sea Strainer, stick a funnel in & pour the antifreeze in while the engine is running.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by MattsCraft View Post
                            I just pull off the hose from exit side of the Sea Strainer, stick a funnel in & pour the antifreeze in while the engine is running.
                            I did the same thing this year. Although it was a pain to get the hose off, it worked like a charm once off.

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                            • #15
                              Getting that hose off is the problem. Even though it's only once a year, I don't want to mess up the intake hoses or perko valve by taking it off each year.

                              I like the RV water pump idea, but they are not cheap. I don't really want to drop $100 on a pump I'll use for 2 minutes each year. Yes, it's cheaper than a cracked block, but is it cheaper than the effort of undoing the intake hose? Maybe.

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