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Winterizing my 2019 X-24 6000GDI

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  • Winterizing my 2019 X-24 6000GDI

    So I have searched this forum and YouTube and have yet to find a video or write up on how to winterize this boat. Anyone have any input? I keep it inside an insulated building that never gets below 45-50*; but still feel like I should drain exhaust manifolds... Thx!
    "Dentist the Menace"

  • #2
    Awe for the first time, you could take it to a dealer, they can explain all what is needed to be done, sometimes but not always the tech can tell/show you how to do it yourself for future winterization, maybe a little pricey, but done correctly.

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    • #3
      I live in South Louisiana and have closed cooling 6.2L, and we dont get the freezing weather so all I do is drain the engine and tranny heat exchange. I will cut the engine on for 2-3 second to flush most the water out of the exhaust manifolds. This has never given me any problems.

      If your building stays in those temps, shouldn't have anything to worry about. My boat stays on the lift throughout the winter and i only winterize when we know when are getting below 32 for long periods of time which is very rare.

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      • #4
        There should be an ilmore manual that walks you through it. It’s also available online.

        Comment


        • #5
          https://youtu.be/ZxwboyhTiIs

          Its so easy, I made this video last year. Worked great over our cold winter and its straight out of the owners manual. These GDI motors are the only ones that can be winterized like this. At least out of the MC line.

          This year after I drained the 2 drain points I started and stopped the motor and re drained it.

          Clarification: when you get to the point of poring antifreeze into the 1" hoses shown in the video make sure you start with the Port side first and then move over to the starboard side. Also the amount of antifreeze may very, this year it only took 3 gallons on each side.

          FYI technically you may not need to do this if you get all the water out and temps are like you stated. But my dealer said It will act as a corrosion prevention and cheep insurance.
          Last edited by Tookeymonster; 11-01-2019, 12:20 AM.

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          • #6
            So I watched this video (https://youtu.be/ZxwboyhTiIs) - thank you Tookeymonster for posted this, this was very helpful. I did not follow this video because of my heater option- I figured I needed to run the antifreeze through the engine to get to the heater so I used my fake lake after draining the four bolts in the video. So thats what I did. But then for safe keeping because I wanted to confirm antifreeze got to my heater, I tried to take off the two hoses at my heater behind the helm, and the hoses would barely budge but then one hose started dripping green fluid- not the pink antifreeze I was using. SO my question is- do these heaters run on a closed cooling system to be using green engine coolant? I left the hoses on and tightened them back up and didnt do anything further.


            Useful info maybe for for others reading, I found this product very helpful from Amazon-

            https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

            This helped me use my fakelake for the intakes on the hull for the engine and all three intakes for the ballast. I couldnt get antifreeze into the ballast tanks through the through-hull vents so I used the fake lake and put a gallon of antifreeze in each tank through the three intakes on the bottom of the hull. Elevating this plastic tank created the pressure to send the antifeeeze through the hose to the fakelake. Remember to use the override to empty all three ballasts even on the trailer before sucking up the antifeeze, I had a ton of water come out even though the computers said they were empty.

            Also- when I was using the fake lake to run AF through the engine, I had to run the engine long enough to get warm enough for the AF to run through the manifolds then it shot out the back mufflers. FYI. It only used 4 gallons of AF.

            Thanks everyone!

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Scampbell18 View Post
              So I watched this video (https://youtu.be/ZxwboyhTiIs) - thank you Tookeymonster for posted this, this was very helpful. I did not follow this video because of my heater option- I figured I needed to run the antifreeze through the engine to get to the heater so I used my fake lake after draining the four bolts in the video. So thats what I did. But then for safe keeping because I wanted to confirm antifreeze got to my heater, I tried to take off the two hoses at my heater behind the helm, and the hoses would barely budge but then one hose started dripping green fluid- not the pink antifreeze I was using. SO my question is- do these heaters run on a closed cooling system to be using green engine coolant? I left the hoses on and tightened them back up and didnt do anything further.


              Useful info maybe for for others reading, I found this product very helpful from Amazon-

              https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

              This helped me use my fakelake for the intakes on the hull for the engine and all three intakes for the ballast. I couldnt get antifreeze into the ballast tanks through the through-hull vents so I used the fake lake and put a gallon of antifreeze in each tank through the three intakes on the bottom of the hull. Elevating this plastic tank created the pressure to send the antifeeeze through the hose to the fakelake. Remember to use the override to empty all three ballasts even on the trailer before sucking up the antifeeze, I had a ton of water come out even though the computers said they were empty.

              Also- when I was using the fake lake to run AF through the engine, I had to run the engine long enough to get warm enough for the AF to run through the manifolds then it shot out the back mufflers. FYI. It only used 4 gallons of AF.

              Thanks everyone!
              No problem, The way in the video works with heater option (Only GDI motors) as I have this option as well. Dealer approved so if ya want give it a shot next year. The green fuid is antifreeze from the close cooled system, the reason why there is no reason to winterize the heater as it has the green stuff. We go through several days were it never gets above the 20's and even occasional sub 0 temps.

              Comment


              • #8
                thank you, thats what I figured. Just couldnt find any information on the heater anywhere including the manual. Thanks again for the video, I will be doing it that way next year for sure.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Bump for new boat and GDI owner expecting to do a few early launches this spring with freezing temps in between.

                  TM, this is a great video and thread, much appreciated. The closed cooled system looks pretty bulletproof and easy to maintain. Nice to have the heater linked to CC as well.

                  Couple of questions for the pros on the GDI Motors:

                  1) What are the two yellow drain plugs for on either side of the exhaust manifolds? Since the exhaust is closed cooled why are these (presumably) fresh water plugs needed?

                  2) In TM’s video, what equipment do the two lower/fore yellow drain plugs near the transmission drain? One must be for the transmission/oil cooler (perhaps the hose?), but what is the other one (strainer/impeller/hull intake system)?

                  3) Is the impeller housing the cylinder just aft of the sea strainer? Do you bump over the engine once or twice before putting pink into the sea strainer? Might be helpful to do so a second time to put pink into the impeller housing?

                  Thanks in advance. The Ilmor and MC owner’s manuals aren’t very detailed and overtly discourage DIY.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by moosehead View Post
                    Bump for new boat and GDI owner expecting to do a few early launches this spring with freezing temps in between.

                    TM, this is a great video and thread, much appreciated. The closed cooled system looks pretty bulletproof and easy to maintain. Nice to have the heater linked to CC as well.

                    Couple of questions for the pros on the GDI Motors:

                    1) What are the two yellow drain plugs for on either side of the exhaust manifolds? Since the exhaust is closed cooled why are these (presumably) fresh water plugs needed? I beleive the exhaust is open cooled and anything yellow should be drained for winterization.

                    2) In TM’s video, what equipment do the two lower/fore yellow drain plugs near the transmission drain? One must be for the transmission/oil cooler (perhaps the hose?), but what is the other one (strainer/impeller/hull intake system)?

                    3) Is the impeller housing the cylinder just aft of the sea strainer? Do you bump over the engine once or twice before putting pink into the sea strainer? Might be helpful to do so a second time to put pink into the impeller housing?

                    Thanks in advance. The Ilmor and MC owner’s manuals aren’t very detailed and overtly discourage DIY.

                    I believe anything yellow should be opened to winterize.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by moosehead View Post
                      1) What are the two yellow drain plugs for on either side of the exhaust manifolds? Since the exhaust is closed cooled why are these (presumably) fresh water plugs needed? They are just low drain points

                      2) In TM’s video, what equipment do the two lower/fore yellow drain plugs near the transmission drain? One must be for the transmission/oil cooler (perhaps the hose?), but what is the other one (strainer/impeller/hull intake system)? Yes one is just another low point drain for impeller/strainer.

                      3) Is the impeller housing the cylinder just aft of the sea strainer? YES Do you bump over the engine once or twice before putting pink into the sea strainer? Dealer told be to do it before to make sure all water is out. Might be helpful to do so a second time to put pink into the impeller housing? no need to but can, The main reason for the pink in this system is for corrosion protection vs freeze protections. The pink does help get any other water that may be left in.

                      Thanks in advance. The Ilmor and MC owner’s manuals aren’t very detailed and overtly discourage DIY.
                      I tried to answer next to your questions. You may just give me a call, may be easier to answer you questions or I could just meet you on the water to show ya . I know its hard for us big guys to get down in there and see every thing but its fairly easy to follow the drain hoses with the yellow markings to the components they drain.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        ^Thanks J. Is there also still an oil drain hose from the bottom of the pan like earlier models?

                        Early spring splash is only two months out.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by moosehead View Post
                          ^Thanks J. Is there also still an oil drain hose from the bottom of the pan like earlier models?

                          Early spring splash is only two months out.
                          Yes, you can stick it out the rear drain plug to drain the oil.

                          Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Doing winterization on my X24 today (6.2LGDI). Changed oil and oil filter. Ballast tanks are empty. Will use fake a lake to put 2 gallons into each ballast tank through bottom ports. What do y'all do with ballast bags that are plumbed in? Manual says install a "bridge connector. I was not given one that we recall. Will unscrew all yellow dots identified as winterization drains, then use fake a lake again to put about 5-6 gallons through engine till it runs pink out of exhausts. I am reading that I do NOT have to do a thing to the heater. Am I missing anything?

                            Did i miss anything?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by geshields View Post
                              Doing winterization on my X24 today (6.2LGDI). Changed oil and oil filter. Ballast tanks are empty. Will use fake a lake to put 2 gallons into each ballast tank through bottom ports. What do y'all do with ballast bags that are plumbed in? Manual says install a "bridge connector. I was not given one that we recall. Will unscrew all yellow dots identified as winterization drains, then use fake a lake again to put about 5-6 gallons through engine till it runs pink out of exhausts. I am reading that I do NOT have to do a thing to the heater. Am I missing anything?

                              Did i miss anything?
                              I don't personally put anything in my ballast. I override them on empty till I hear air. Then I override them to fill to also capture air and to me there's nothing to freeze or if it does it has room to expand.

                              I disconnect the inlet hose from the strainer and add antifreeze there versus from the bottom, just get a big funnel

                              Comment

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