Winterizing LY6 Indmar 6.0

[D2Dominator]

Sorry if this has been asked, but I couldn’t find anything through search...

How do you drain the manifolds with Cats, and how do you drain the two? Transmission coolers? The Manual shows an arrow to an oil line...


What’s the order of operations?

Thanks,
D2


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[Vux73]

Watching this thread as I have the same engine. Not much info out there on the LY6

[dedar]

This is what I follow. I use an air compressor to blow out heater and shower hoses.

https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/vi...6-bakes-online

[Vux73]

Thank you dedar! That helped a lot

[D2Dominator]

Saw that on Bakes, but it’s not the same as my engine(2010). Both cats appear to be fed from
The thermostat, and there is no crossover hose... I don’t have a booster pump for the heater, it’s also directly fed from the thermostat housing.

I’m addition, it says to drain the transmission cooler, but the hoses it’s pointing too run to the transmission... they are gonna be filled with tranny fluid.

One more thing... what is this second metal tube just in front of the tranny cooler? It’s about half the size?

Thanks!

D2


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[D2Dominator]

Okay, some images:
]

From Left to right:
First Cooler:

1. Line to oil pan (oil pump?)
2. Line to oil filter
3. Line to transmission
4. Line to Second Tranny Cooler

The second Metal tube look like the one on my previous indmar predator...

Does this engine need two transmission coolers? Is the first tube with 4 hoses an oil cooler for the engine as well?

Is removing the raw water hoses sufficient for winterizing these components?

More to Come

[D2Dominator]

The hoses @ 4 and 8 o'clock positions feed the Exhaust Manifolds: Is draining these hoses sufficient for winterization of the Manifolds?

There is not a cross over hose as indicated in the Indmar Manual...

Heater hoses obviously need to be removed and blown out, the raw water feed removed and drained, as well as the water circulation pump to thermostat housing.

Anything I'm missing here?

Thanks in advance,
D2

[D2Dominator]

Building on this thread for someone in the future I guess... Apparently I'm the only one who will/has winterize this engine


I've been speaking with Indmar, and they have confirmed that there is no "Exhaust Manifold Drain Hose" as called out on the Ly6 of this year with catalytic converters. See below

"That style manifold does not have a crossover hose between the manifolds. You drain the manifolds by removing the inlet hoses. Because of the angle, there may be a small amount of water left in the manifolds but that will not hurt anything."

The Manual has an arrow pointing to one of the oil hoses indicating remove to drain, and I assume that cannot be factual. I'm guessing the oil cooler drain is indicated below by the red Arrow:


The transmission cooler has a similar drain marked below in green, but given its orientation, its not gonna do anything for winterization. I'm guessing the band in red should be removed to drain the tranny cooler:


Removing/draining the line marked in red above would be the lowest point in the intake route, as it heads back/up above the engine to the strainer after this point.

[D2Dominator]

Here is my proposed order of drainage operations for Winterization:

1. Remove the Brass caps from the block drain hoses
2. Remove the Red Hoses indicated below to drain exhaust Manifolds

3.Remove the Green (water Pump return) and Blue(Raw water intake) hoses above
4. Remove the Heater hoses indicated by the Yellow Arrows and blow out with compressed air.
5. Disconnect raw water hose from impellor housing and remove impellor(store over winter for backup next season)
6.Disconnect Hose at red arrow, drain oiler cooler using at brass drain fitting:

7. Remove hose at red arrow below, and drain into bilge:


I think that covers it... I dry block it for the winter after running RV AF through the engine, but I need to determine if that is caustic in the LY6 aluminum system (block, heads, Exhaust Manifolds).

Running to temp, changing oil (tranny/engine), fogging cylinders, Pumping AF through the ballast all proceed these steps.

Thoughts welcome,
D2

[Andyg]

I had a 2008 LY6 minus the Cat manifolds. I winterized it myself for 12 years. I agree with all of your disconnection points. I left the block dry for the winter for 12 years and never had an issue. I tried doing a wet block with RV antifreeze the first couple years and it was difficult to get the antifreeze into the block due to the way the thermostat works on these engines so I just stopped trying after the 2nd year. I would leave it dry.

[Andyg]

If you go from running on a hose then shutting off the engine then running the raw water pump intake line into a 5 gallon pail of RV antifreeze I would bet you won't get antifreeze into the block. The thermostat won't open and allow the antifreeze into the block in the short time it takes the raw water pump to suck up the 5 gallons of RV antifreeze. It will bypass the engine block and only go through the oil coolers and exhaust manifolds.

[Andyg]

I also had a heater on my LY6. I would disconnect both lines from the thermostat housing then blow out the water just using lung power. Then I would raise one line up so it is higher than the heater core and put the other line in the bottom of the bilge. Then I would dump RV antifreeze into the raised line until it came out the line in the bilge. This way the heat core had RV antifreeze in it and I didn't have to worry about any water pooling in one of the heater core lines and cracking the heater core.

[D2Dominator]

Good thoughts on the heater core.

In terms of the RV fluid, I was considering having the pickup in a trough that catches all of the exhaust output and letting that run while it warms up. While this wont evacuate all of the water, it would certainly help (but might be total overkill). The only challenge is that you need to remember to put the right fitting into the perkoflush fitting; otherwise it will not open under no hose pressure.

D2

[Skram]

For my 2007 LY6 I did the following:

1. Removed heater hoses and installed a bypass hose
2. Installed a Strainer Pro in the raw water intake line and closed the thru-hull valve.
3. Ran a hose from the Strainer Pro to a tub of water and ran the engine until up to temperature, then continued to run for several more minutes so that it was good and heat-soaked.
4. Quickly drained the water from the engine following the document referenced in post #3. Also temporarily opened the thru-hull valve to drain water out of the intake line.
5. Put a hose from the Strainer Pro into a tub filled with 9 gallons of RV anti-freeze and ran the engine until it sucked the tub dry.
6. Blew out the heater hoses and then elevated one and poured ~1 gallon of anti-freeze through until it ran out the other hose.

Afterwards, I cracked open the caps on the block drains and anti-freeze came out, so I feel fairly confident this procedure worked.

[D2Dominator]

Food for thought:

I dumped 9 gallons of RV fluid in a large Rubbermaid under the exhaust ports. Put the pickup into that tub, and ran the circulating RV fluid. Temps stayed right around 160 as I ran it for 15 minutes.

Exhaust ports drained the Pink into the bucket to close the loop.

Everything I drained had RV fluid in it. No worry about water pooling anywhere.

D2


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